Losing power - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
Water Cooled Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for water cooled Triumph Twins.

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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Losing power

A couple times recently I've noticed my 2016 Street Twin briefly loses power.

First time, I was accelerating onto the highway, in 4th or 5th gear with the throttle about half open. I gave it a little more gas and nothing happened.

It's happened a couple times since then. Sometimes when accelerating but sometimes I can be cruising along and the power just drops briefly. So far it's only happened on the highway.

It acts like it's not getting enough gas or is only firing on one cylinder. It only lasts a second or two. Then goes back to normal.

Anyone else experience anything like this?

================
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 11:25 AM
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I had a similar experience. One day I started having a slight hesitation when giving it more gas. It occurred a few times. The next day it happened again but with increased hesitation and frequency. About 30 miles from home the MIL came on.

I hooked up my Dealertool software and I had a “#2 ignition coil” fault. A few months prior I had performed my own 10K maintenance and remembered disconnecting the coils in order to remove the cam cover. So I checked the wiring and spaded terminals to the coil and found the terminals slightly loose. I squeezed down a little on the female terminal and reconnected. The hesitation immediately ceased and has been fine since. My theory is the coil was getting insufficient primary voltage “in” and was producing insufficient secondary voltage “out”. There wasn’t enough fire to burn the mixture fully. I could be wrong on this, but ultimately I was able to fix it sans dealer.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tahtye View Post
I had a similar experience. One day I started having a slight hesitation when giving it more gas. It occurred a few times. The next day it happened again but with increased hesitation and frequency. About 30 miles from home the MIL came on.

I hooked up my Dealertool software and I had a “#2 ignition coil” fault. A few months prior I had performed my own 10K maintenance and remembered disconnecting the coils in order to remove the cam cover. So I checked the wiring and spaded terminals to the coil and found the terminals slightly loose. I squeezed down a little on the female terminal and reconnected. The hesitation immediately ceased and has been fine since. My theory is the coil was getting insufficient primary voltage “in” and was producing insufficient secondary voltage “out”. There wasn’t enough fire to burn the mixture fully. I could be wrong on this, but ultimately I was able to fix it sans dealer.
Hmmm... I don't have any way to read the codes and the nearest Triumph dealer is a little over an hour away, so it's not super easy to just drop it off. But it might be worth swinging it by a local shop to see if they can check for error codes.

I bought this bike used with only 300 miles on it from a guy who lived about two hours from me. On the way home from buying the bike it got REALLY sluggish. In fifth gear with the throttle wide open I was barely doing 60mph. I pulled over and could see the spark on one side jumping through the spark plug cap to the engine block. The cap had a hairline crack and it was only running on one cylinder. The original owner was great. Towed it to his dealer, they fixed it and he delivered the bike to me a couple weeks later.

This issue feels a little like that, only MUCH less pronounced. Because it's intermittent, I can't check to see if the spark is jumping again. It's a little hard to see the plug while I'm trying to merge into traffic on the interstate But I'm wondering if it's related. Or wondering if maybe his dealer didn't quite button things up properly like what tahtye describes.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 12:03 PM
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If your MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) is on, you can check for the specific DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) or codes that caused it to lite up by doing the following,
Press and hold the i button, turn ignition on, wait until you see dtc in the speedo display and release the i button. Make note of the code(s). A proper code begins with a “P” followed by four digits. P0000 = no faults. FYI - My MIL didn’t come on immediately after I noticed the issue.

Or you could pull the bolt on the tank, pull tank back a little, raise and support the rear of tank enough to get your hand under it, follow the spark plug wires to the coils mounted on the main top frame tube and check for bad wires or terminal connections. Hell, tighten everything up, can’t hurt. Not hard to do and who knows? Caution, if your tank is full don’t tilt it up too far or you’ll get fuel out of the overflow and out through the EVAP canister.

Just thinking out loud, When it was ‘really’ sluggish we know you were losing spark energy, a lot of it by your description. So it makes sense to me by losing less spark might mean less sluggishness because of more/better burn.. for the record I’m not a mechanic by trade but spent my working life troubleshooting and repairing light to heavy mechanical/electrical equipment.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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My check engine light hasn't come on. It didn't even come on when the plug cap failed. Does that mean there won't be an error code to read?

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topper-2k View Post
My check engine light hasn't come on. It didn't even come on when the plug cap failed. Does that mean there won't be an error code to read?
Not necessarily. Some faults will turn on the MI light, others won't. You won't know if there's a code or not until it's checked. That's easy to do. See post #4 above.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 02:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topper-2k View Post
A couple times recently I've noticed my 2016 Street Twin briefly loses power.

First time, I was accelerating onto the highway, in 4th or 5th gear with the throttle about half open. I gave it a little more gas and nothing happened.

It's happened a couple times since then. Sometimes when accelerating but sometimes I can be cruising along and the power just drops briefly. So far it's only happened on the highway.

It acts like it's not getting enough gas or is only firing on one cylinder. It only lasts a second or two. Then goes back to normal.

Anyone else experience anything like this?
worth checking if the brake light switches are working properly.

.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Checked for codes via i button as suggested. P0000 no errors.

================
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 10:36 AM
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Great, no DTC’s! Since your MIL was off that should’ve been expected. But as I stated twice already, I had symptoms before my MIL lit up. My guess is that some DTC’s aren’t tripped immediately in order to avoid nuisance faults.

I believe you have 3 choices,

Do nothing more and hope your issue goes away magically on its own. Possible but..

Or, Take it to your dealer or bike repair shop.

Or, Try what I did to fix mine. It may not fix it, but it won’t cost you anything to try! I’m trying to lead you to water but I can’t make you drink it, lol.

Good luck and hope you get it resolved soon.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 05:13 PM
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If you have any mechanical knowledge the plugs are easy to pull now. You could lay them grounded on the head connected and spin it over. You should see a solid arc from both. Other than that it could be a lot of things fuel or ignition connected. You can at the same time view the colour of the pig and evaluate it which will tell you if the feeling is ok. Hope you get it sorted, Nothing worse than having a new bike that doesn't run right.
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