Fuel line Quick disconnect question - Page 2 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #11 of 63 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Forchetto View Post
That's why mechanics invest in some of these:

Thanks for that info. Just ordered one for my tool collection. As a p.s., went to dealer and took a look at bike on the floor. Yup, connector goes past the ring. Then spoke to a tech. He said that they usually disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump, not the fuel rail. Go no. Said it was Much easier with the one at the pump. Have to real careful with the one below on the rail and yes, it's really hard to dis and re connect, being real careful not to damage the fuel rail nipple. So, I'll try after I get the proper tool. They nicely said that I could bring it by and they would do it for me if I want. Lesson learned.
I had the same experience last year. Unfortunately I didn’t look closely at the valve seating before I pried it off. When I reinstalled it I had to push it all the way down to the ring on the nipple but not past it. I first thought it needed to be well above the ring to allow the lock to slide forward but this leaked, so I pushed it down to the ring. Of course the lock doesn’t slide forward in the position but it ddn’t leak so I left it. I thought I had broken the valve so last week I got a new fuel line/valve. The parts guy said the fuel rail was plastic so I was worried that I may have broken that. When you push the tabs in, a piece inside, which is spring loaded, retracts a small distance, opening the hole more.. The old one did the same exact thing. You don’t have to push very hard to get it to retract. The only thing I see that this mechanism does is lock under the ring on the nipple. I should be able to push the valve over the ring and it should lock under the under the ring. I poured nearly a fuel tank back so I may wait a while to try this. This is consistent with pmorritt’s findings. Thanks for your insight. The connection from the fuel line to the tank is even weirder. They must’ve been high when the designed this. IMI, plastic tubing and hose clamps worked pretty well.

Last edited by Dougl1000; 03-24-2019 at 03:29 AM.
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post #12 of 63 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 09:30 AM
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Fuel connectors. To remove, slide the cover to the side and depress both locks fully. Lift straight off. This should require no great force. To reinstall, press straight down until you get an audible click, heard when the locks engage. Slide the cover into place. Right, the sliding cover locks nothing, it just prevents access to the locking tabs.

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post #13 of 63 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 01:37 PM
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Plastic tubing and hose clamps worked fine when fuel just ran down from the tank under gravity. Modern systems are pressurised by the fuel pump and require up to date technology.
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post #14 of 63 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 01:38 PM
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Fuel connectors. To remove, slide the cover to the side and depress both locks fully. Lift straight off. This should require no great force. To reinstall, press straight down until you get an audible click, heard when the locks engage. Slide the cover into place. Right, the sliding cover locks nothing, it just prevents access to the locking tabs.
I think we got the instructions. The problem is it doesn’t always work as advertised. Even some mechanics have recognized this. Squeezing the tabs just a little is sufficient to retract the locking mechanism. Squeezing more with a special tool doesn’t make it retract more, at least on the two valves I have. The problem is that some of these still hang up on the rim on the fuel rail nipple.
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post #15 of 63 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 05:59 PM
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I could not push valve down over the lip on the fuel rail nipple. Even using a “special tool” to compress the tabs.
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post #16 of 63 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 09:45 PM
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This topic has been covered in several threads. It has been pointed out that this particular disconnect is a common device used on several automobiles. It has been pointed out that a simple hose and hose clamp is no longer safe with fuel injection. Several have claimed it is easy to do if you spend money for another tool that will clutter your toolbox. These are all valid points.

I would maintain that a semi-competent engineer could deign a disconnect that is just as safe, easier to use, located in easier to access location, and doesn't require any special tools. Just the fact that so many people have expressed frustration about this device points out it that it is worthy of Triumph's attention.

Automotive electrical connectors used by industry is a similar maybe even worse scenario. There are seemingly 10,000 non-standardized designs. Each requires a special trick to release them, and they are usually installed in a location where not only can you not get your fingers on them, you can't even see them to determine how they might come apart.

Anyone who points out a frustrating connector will be subject to ridicule by those who are completely content with such absurd ways of connecting things.
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post #17 of 63 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by cougsfan View Post
This topic has been covered in several threads. It has been pointed out that this particular disconnect is a common device used on several automobiles. It has been pointed out that a simple hose and hose clamp is no longer safe with fuel injection. Several have claimed it is easy to do if you spend money for another tool that will clutter your toolbox. These are all valid points.

I would maintain that a semi-competent engineer could deign a disconnect that is just as safe, easier to use, located in easier to access location, and doesn't require any special tools. Just the fact that so many people have expressed frustration about this device points out it that it is worthy of Triumph's attention.

Automotive electrical connectors used by industry is a similar maybe even worse scenario. There are seemingly 10,000 non-standardized designs. Each requires a special trick to release them, and they are usually installed in a location where not only can you not get your fingers on them, you can't even see them to determine how they might come apart.

Anyone who points out a frustrating connector will be subject to ridicule by those who are completely content with such absurd ways of connecting things.
Well I guess its horses for courses. Of course there are better ways of doing it....that is true of most anything in this life.

I took my tank off today for the first time. I had no problems. The special tool I used was my 55 year old swan neck pliers to squeeze the release. I found the access good enough, and there was no need to apply brute force or a trained snake getting the connector off or on.

So, yes, I am one of those simpletons who is easily contented.
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post #18 of 63 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tsmgguy View Post
Fuel connectors. To remove, slide the cover to the side and depress both locks fully. Lift straight off. This should require no great force. To reinstall, press straight down until you get an audible click, heard when the locks engage. Slide the cover into place. Right, the sliding cover locks nothing, it just prevents access to the locking tabs.
yea, yea. we’ve tried that, didn’t wouk for some of us as posted. I now , if need to remove tank, use the upper QD and that one works as it should. go figure

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post #19 of 63 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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I think we got the instructions. The problem is it doesn’t always work as advertised. Even some mechanics have recognized this. Squeezing the tabs just a little is sufficient to retract the locking mechanism. Squeezing more with a special tool doesn’t make it retract more, at least on the two valves I have. The problem is that some of these still hang up on the rim on the fuel rail nipple.
thankyou!!!!

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post #20 of 63 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 11:28 PM
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I’ve moved the tank out of the way many times and tried to seat 2 different valves on the fuel rail nipple. Neither will move past the flange on the nipple. They just will not move any effing farther. The valve sits flush right on top of the flange. I’ve gotten it to cover the flange but it needs to drop down another quarter or so inch before the flange goes under the locking mechanism (collar) in the valve. There are 2 parts to the lock, one at 12 o’clock inside the valve (picture below) and the other at 6, which you can’t see. Both grey locks are part of the collar, on which the tabs are at 3 and 9. When you push on the tabs, the collar deforms, moving the locks back from under the flange, allowing you to pull the valve off. You don’t need any freaking tool to push the tabs in enough to move the locks out of the way. I can’t tell what is preventing the valve from moving further down on the nipple. I don’t think the nipple is too long, but the inside diameter of the valve could be too small. You can’t push the bracket over the tabs with the valve on top of the flange, which blocks it. Both of my valves are exactly the same.
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Last edited by Dougl1000; 03-26-2019 at 12:26 AM.
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