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Triumph SuperSports Triumph Four-Cylinder Enthusists: TT600, Speed4, and Daytona 600/650

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will View Post
Make sure any openings in the airbox between the filter and throttle bodies is sealed.
If my bike were missing the strap that holds the airbox in place and the airbox were just sitting losely over the throttle bodies, would this too cause hesitation in the throttle response? Does the airbox need to be PERFECTLY sealed?

If this is the case, then this might be my problem. thanks
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krazykirb77 View Post
If my bike were missing the strap that holds the airbox in place and the airbox were just sitting losely over the throttle bodies, would this too cause hesitation in the throttle response? Does the airbox need to be PERFECTLY sealed?

If this is the case, then this might be my problem. thanks
The strap isn't all that important, since the boots that fit between the throttle bodies and the airbox should seal up just fine. But yes, it needs to be sealed up. If there's a problem with those boots or how they are fit, it will cause havoc.

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Update: So almost completed. New plugs, checked Cam gasket and resealed the half moons, changed banjo bolt copper washers in oil pressure hose and basically checked all fuses and switches in the area. IACV all good and hoses which had already been changed to silicone anyway. Gave me chance to clean and polish some metal work too. Just the indicators to sort but troubleshooting has led to faulty switch so that's tomorrow. Fired it up and sounded way better and no obvious leaks. Will plug the tune ECU in tomorrow and see if get any codes. To be honest come winter I am taking all lights out in conversion to track bike so it will get checked over again then! Any ideas about track conversion be grateful, just for track days at moment and I'm likely getting more of tourer for the road. Thanks for help folks

James
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 01:25 AM
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HI James
I use my TT for occasional track day but I have kept the lights and left it on the road to be able to and sort out any running problems if they occur .Only using the bike for track days will be leaving the bike standing a lot which wont help. Sorting out a problem on a bike that's not road legal would be a pain too. The resale of a 20 year old track bike would be very low if you decide you want a faster bike later on. Plus you will have a sports bike to go with your tourer the extra to have 2 bikes shouldn't be much more.
Drop the gearing and set the suspension to the PB settings should get your bike sorted for the track.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks

So Ive given it some go over the past few days and thankfully there doesn't seem to be any leaks anywhere and no rough running. After some though Ive decided not to fully convert to a track bike but maybe upgrade the suspension. 2 reasons for this and something you guys reading this maybe able to help with or probably better to start a new thread:

Rear shock: Rebound adjuster seized and currently have a little too much dialled in (as in it returns a little too slow) Im trying my best to loosen it!
Secondly, it hasn't been re-gassed and nobody locally seems to want to do it!

Front forks: My pre-load it dialled almost all the way out and I'm still not getting the 30-35mm recommendation static sag (Sits at about 25mm) and the bike does feel high at the front. Ive always been fine setting my previous bike ( A ZX9r). Is this because the springs are too soft or too hard (Excuse my ignorance) I had the oil changed and refurbished about 400 miles ago on the front forks but nothing else.

So anyway, If I was to uprgrade front and rear suspension any recommendations other than bloody Ohlins which are about as expensive as the bike itself!

Thanks again.


James
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 02:49 PM
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I have to ask... that sag figure you quoted (25mm)on the forks is with you sitting on the bike, in all your riding gear with your feet on the pegs and a mate holding you upright, yes? As for the rear shock there are quite a few on evilBay. Buy one and have it fully serviced, the spring rate is pretty good unless you weigh 90kg plus and the valving is good too, then swap for the one in the bike. This will save for down time.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks dude. Yeah 25mm fully dressed and straight. I set the rear first and that's 25mm so at least level and within ball park! I am heavy, 100kg. As for front I'm a little baffled as they were serviced in May with new oil, not sure about the spring rate as I bought it used, probably should have asked the garage. It's set dead level now so more a track setting at 25mm so should be ok. I've bought a used stock shock which is off a 2001 model and will send that up to Brookes suspension (uk) to get refurbished. Just a bit odd with the front sag. It improved when set the rear first as think it was a bit high at the front before. Can't imagine the fella before put stiffer springs in as the rear shock was set at stock setting. I think I've balanced ok for now, just not pushed it too hard in and out of corners yet, so will See!

Thanks again


James[/QUOTE]
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 03:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyjammy View Post
Thanks dude. Yeah 25mm fully dressed and straight. I set the rear first and that's 25mm so at least level and within ball park! I am heavy, 100kg. As for front I'm a little baffled as they were serviced in May with new oil, not sure about the spring rate as I bought it used, probably should have asked the garage.
[/QUOTE]

There is no way with the stock fork that you weighing 100kg would get that rider sag figure. New springs are possible, suspect whoever serviced the fork in May set the oil level way too high. With the oil set high you end up with an effective spring rate that rises too rapidly resulting in hydraulic locking of the fork. Similar to bottoming the forks this will have you off in a thrice on a bumpy corner entry. Pull the forks apart totally, check the spring and replace the oil at the correct level.

I find this guide useful and you can program in your weight and riding type plus a whole bunch of other parameters. This is actually for the Daytona 600 but its rolling chassis is the same as the TT600.. https://racetech.com/ProductSearch/1...%20600/2004-05

For what its worth for me at 80kg and using the bike for twisty road use - canyon riding in 'murican - the stock spring rates are pretty much on the money. Thats a first in my experience, most bikes are woefully undersprung in stock form for me.

Cheers.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-21-2019, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks dude. Yeah, you know what, now I come to think of it they were "stiffer" after having front forks done last May. I remember the left fork preload adjustment was stiff/making a noise when dialing it and I asked them to fix this and change oil. Unfortunately 2 days ago some chav tried to pinch my bike and kicked out the steering lock damaging the barrel and top yolk. However it also looked like the damaged the seal of the left fork or something around there as there is very slight leak on it. So looks like need to fix that. Thanks for the advice, really appreciated.

James
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