Daytona 650 electrical issues (stator and R/R) - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 06:34 AM Thread Starter
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Daytona 650 electrical issues (stator and R/R)

Hi All.
I don't normally post in forums at all, I usually search and get enough info but am getting desperate. I used to use daytona600.org but that closed a long time ago...

Anyway as per the title, having issues with the the charging system. Recently picked up a Daytona 650 to replace mine which was written off by a bus (it was parked up without me on it thankfully). It worked fine for a month and then it stopped charging properly. I notice the R/R has been replaced with the electrex one recently-ish (sticker on the side is dated July 2016). But whoever fit it should stay far away from electronics, the crimps were poorly done and the connector had gotten hot and melted. Tidied up the connections but still not behaving, getting weird jumps in the output voltage between 6 to 10 V, and its not constant. I also notice that the stator (can feel it through the casing when bike is cold), stator wires and the R/R get very warm.

Did all the multimeter checks on the R/R and it passes. Stator checks seem fine, no shorts, outputs equal voltage across all three outputs at expected levels. I figure maybe the R/R is fried. So I get a used FH001 from an 03 yamaha R1 and the link lead. Same issues but voltage doesn't go above about 2 V. So I replace the stator with a spare I have which I know was working when I removed it ages ago. same issues. Now I also try it with a spare stock triumph R/R. same issues. Inspecting the coils some of them look a bit darker than the others, and I've noticed some posts saying that although the stator outputs normal voltage across the pins, it's likely on its way out if the coils have started going black.

I receive and fit a new stator, albeit a cheaper one from china (56 delivered). I try it with the yamaha R/R first. Now I'm pretty sure I remember this right (happened quite quickly), I measured ~12 V at the R/R output, started thinking finally it's working, but then thought hang on it should be higher, like 14 V. Then within a couple seconds it starts dropping, 11, 10 V back down to <2 V?? Wires and stator start getting warm again. WHAT IS GOING ON.

Is it possible that a fried stator can damage an R/R? And then if you use said R/R with a new stator it will damage that too? I attach pictures of 2 of the stators, the original one that came with the bike and my old spare. (Upload has jumbled the order of the images, The one on the envelope is the original, the one on the plain sheet is the spare). (Edit: hovering over or opening the images seems to reveal the filenames).

Are there any more in-depth ways of testing a stator or R/R? I work at a university so have access to plenty of equipment. Only idea I have is to test an R/R with an ESC for drones but I'm not sure if the frequency is appropriate. I now have 3 stators and 3 R/R's surely they can't all be faulty?

Please help!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zobocop View Post
... , I measured ~12 V at the R/R output, started thinking finally it's working, but then thought hang on it should be higher, like 14 V. Then within a couple seconds it starts dropping, 11, 10 V back down to <2 V??
I don't see how bike would possibly be running with the voltage at 2V - this IS connected to the battery, right?
It would be pretty much IMPOSSIBLE to get 2V and have it be still running so it sounds like you maybe are not connected to battery?
It MUST be connected to battery to work! i.e. you cannot leave it unplugged and measure output voltage at the R/R output connector. and everything WILL get hot because it is in full shunt mode.

For stator - replacement looks fine.
Original - hard to tell (that one coil at 3 o'clock is definitely pretty black but could be just the epoxy that's burned) - the acid test is just to measure resistance from any one of the three connector terminals to the core - that must NOT be short; if it is short, confirms it is toast. If NOT short, then stator is still viable.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Ah I didn't realise that the battery has to be connected during testing! The original issues happened with the battery connected so I thought it didn't make a difference. Will connect battery up and try again.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
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Bike is now working properly again. The electrex R/R was actually toast, no change to battery voltage when running, but alternator wires getting very hot and AC voltage dropping to nearly 0. After installing the yamaha FH001 R/R properly (and connecting to battery!) all is good again. Feeling a bit stupid for not connecting properly the first time and ordering another stator...

Does the R/R add 2V to the line voltage then?

Thanks for the help Decosse!
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 11:26 AM
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No, the R/R does not add voltage. It regulates voltage. The alternator has to be healthy to put out the 14+ volts that the bike really should have in order to keep everything functioning and keep the battery charged.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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I get that it rectifies AC to DC, and then regulates, but I always thought it regulated to ~14 V, thus charging a 12 V battery. Why doesn't it work without a battery? Just a curiosity. When I was measuring 2 V at the r/r output, I started to think maybe it just adds 2 V to the battery voltage. But now I think about it that would mean it would keep increasing by 2 V and would go to 14 and beyond, which it clearly does not do. Looking at wikipedia about rectifiers... a bit too much math for my liking.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 05:02 AM
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The battery completes the circuit.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 04:51 PM
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I'm sitting here thinking "how did you even get to test the output without the battery?".

A car (or my truck for example) will stay running when you take the battery out of the system IF the alternator is working.... and die instantly if alternator is bad.

But every bike I've messed with, if you pull the battery it will kill the bike. Not sure why, but I know that's what happens.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 04:35 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kubbie View Post
I'm sitting here thinking "how did you even get to test the output without the battery?".

A car (or my truck for example) will stay running when you take the battery out of the system IF the alternator is working.... and die instantly if alternator is bad.

But every bike I've messed with, if you pull the battery it will kill the bike. Not sure why, but I know that's what happens.
Ah well I had a fully charged battery installed and would start the bike off of that. As the previous owner had installed the electrex R/R it's wired straight to the battery rather than into the loom, so when I was getting weird readings at the battery I turned it off, disconnected the R/R, started again and tested at R/R DC output. Still having weird readings. Then when I got the new R/R which does connect to the wiring loom; a) I didn't realise it needs connecting to battery to work properly, and b) I was too lazy to lift the tank and connect it to the loom and just measured at the DC output. Silly me!
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