Complete Instructions for Rebuilding Forks and Changing Fork Oil - Page 2 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
Triumph SuperSports Triumph Four-Cylinder Enthusists: TT600, Speed4, and Daytona 600/650

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-14-2012, 05:45 PM
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BF, My D6 manual states 112mm with fork fully compressed?
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-30-2012, 09:30 AM
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 02:43 PM
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Scrambler forks

Thanks for your great post. I have a 2010 Scrambler and I live in Kigali, Rwanda. I was hit by a truck on a country road out here 4 months ago, and the bike has been sitting ever since, as I slowly accumulate the parts I've needed to replace the fork tubes and front wheel / disc.

I'm a novice, yet there aren't mechanics out here that know the bike, so I've got to do it myself. I'm getting close, but I have a few questions, and will likely have more.

I've got the fork sliders in, and I'm now trying to get the fork seal situated into the outer / lower (black) fork. There's loads of emphasis in your post on placing the seals right side up, and I'm cross referencing with the shop manual, which I've found has been useless at critical times. My notes tell me that the fork seal "right side up" is that which has the thin metal band right side up. I have photos I can send, and it might be better to send via email. The issue I'm having is that the seal is flush with the top of the lower black fork; using the specialty tool that I paid a fair bit for doesn't help me push it in so it is sunk below the top of the lower black fork. Tried with hammering the specialty part in position, for 10 mins or so, but to no avail. Not sure what I'm doing wrong here, other than to suspect I may have it in wrong or that I need to use more force, which seems a bit dicey.

Secondly, the other specialty part I had to buy for this repair - a long rod that I'm unclear what to use for. Is it somehow supposed to brace the damper rod so I can fully tighten the damper rod bolt?

Grateful for any advice you can provide. Thanks a lot in advance.

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 08:37 PM
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Considering that a Scrambler is a very different bike from a TT600, you might be better off asking in the twins forum. I'm sure somebody there has taken apart Scrambler forks.

It's a squid thing. You wouldn't understand.

Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 10:21 AM
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Will - you're right...but I finally figured it out anyway. Back on the road now.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-04-2013, 08:40 PM
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BF, tremendous write-up. I have a question though on my
2002 Daytona CE. I have my forks apart and draining in my kitchen and will be replacing seals and wipers. I don't understand the oil lock part and the need to remove it. As I look through the bottom hole I don't see anything. Also, do I need to do anything with the compression adjuster at the bottom of the fork leg?

thanks, Mark.

Last edited by blipco; 02-04-2013 at 11:26 PM.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 07:58 PM
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Haynes wouldn't let you give that much info they want you to have to guess about 1/2 of the info
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 10:51 PM
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Anyone found a way to do this without Special Tool 3880090-T0301?

I've done complete fork rebuilds on a Ducati, two Aprilias, and a Suzuki (both conventional and inverted), and never needed a tool like this before.

Would anyone with this tool be willing to post pictures & measurements so we could come up with a way to fabricate a less expensive alternative?

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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-06-2014, 11:16 AM
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Very helpful. I will be using these instructions soon.

Alea iacta est- Julius Caesar
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 01:29 AM
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Here is how my oil lock was oriented in both my fork legs on my 01 tt600.
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