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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-31-2011, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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Stuck throttle

has anyone else had a problem with a stuck throttle of sorts. Happened twice to me tonight. I was cruising at around 110 kph (68 mph), came up to some lights, released the throttle, and it did retract, but the revs did not drop. Pulled the clutch in & braked to a stop, the bike was still at approx 2500rpm. I sat there throttling on & off for 30 sec or so & finally it released.
Took off again testing with bursts of speed, about 5 minutes later it stuck again, at a similar speed, maybe a little less. Again the throttle appeard to release fully, but the revs would not drop. Pulled over again, this time it took around 5 minutes of poking/prodding/reving/banging the throttle control before it finally dropped it's revs to idle.
So both times the throttle control didn't actually appear to have stuck, but the revs had jammed on at around 2500. Has anyone else experienced this. (yes I will be ringing the shop tomorrow).
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-31-2011, 09:31 AM
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First: If the weather is cold where you live,it's possible that somethin in the throttle system may have iced up.

Second:Are your throttle cables adjusted correctly??? If they're not,that could cause the throttle to stick.There's a section in the OM explaining the throttle adjustment procedure.

Third:Has anyone worked on your machine recently??If so,it's possible that somethin didn't get put back together right.

And fourth: A component in the system may be goin bad.

At any rate,ya wanna get it checked and fixed ASAP,as a sticking throttle can get ya into some real serious trouble, real quick.

Anyways, there's a couple things to look at. Good luck. Dave!!!
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-31-2011, 09:43 AM
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I would lube the cables and check the tension on them. Since it is a dual cable set up you may want to have them increase the tension on them. My throttle has a lot of play in the cables and I will readjust them once they break in and stretch a bit. However a faulty idle air control sensor can do the same thing.

The difference between a Yuengling and your opinion is that I asked for the Yuengling.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-31-2011, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davetac1 View Post
First: If the weather is cold where you live,it's possible that somethin in the throttle system may have iced up.

Second:Are your throttle cables adjusted correctly??? If they're not,that could cause the throttle to stick.There's a section in the OM explaining the throttle adjustment procedure.

Third:Has anyone worked on your machine recently??If so,it's possible that somethin didn't get put back together right.

And fourth: A component in the system may be goin bad.

At any rate,ya wanna get it checked and fixed ASAP,as a sticking throttle can get ya into some real serious trouble, real quick.

Anyways, there's a couple things to look at. Good luck. Dave!!!
hi davetac, the weather has been perfect, so no problems with ice.
Yes someone has worked on the bike recently, the big bore kit was installed about 3 weeks ago (by Triumph dealer) & it had a full service at the same time. I took it back after a week as it had a slight throttle problem with the throttle opening slightly when turning the bars (eg. when parked at idle, turning the bars to full lock would increase revs by about 200rpm or so). This was a mechanical adjustment only. This differs from this issue, as I was riding on a long straight, and the throttle had retracted, but the revs did not drop at all.
Just got off the phone to the dealer, will be taking it in this arvo. Will be interested to see what the cause was, but murphys law might prevail & they probably won't find anything (happens all the time).
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-31-2011, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMK9251 View Post
I would lube the cables and check the tension on them. Since it is a dual cable set up you may want to have them increase the tension on them. My throttle has a lot of play in the cables and I will readjust them once they break in and stretch a bit. However a faulty idle air control sensor can do the same thing.
The bike is over 2 years old, so shouldn't be any stretch problem. Also just had a full service too.
Interestingly, the workshop manager did mention the idle sensor on the phone.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-31-2011, 09:35 PM
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Your problem is man made and created by who ever did the BB kit installation.SO!! Bring it back to him,explain the problem and how it wasn't there before you had the work done,and let him fix it BEFORE you get killed.It's probably something simple that he over looked or did not adjust properly.But don't think about it,DO IT!! Dave!!!
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2011, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davetac1 View Post
Your problem is man made and created by who ever did the BB kit installation.SO!! Bring it back to him,explain the problem and how it wasn't there before you had the work done,and let him fix it BEFORE you get killed.It's probably something simple that he over looked or did not adjust properly.But don't think about it,DO IT!! Dave!!!
bike's in, will be checked out & road-tested by the dealer over the next couple of days. Interesting I have done around 700 kms on the BB before this issue happened. They will re-download the tune as well in case there's an issue there too.
On the plus side, I was given a 2011 Speed Triple to use until I get the Bird back. Not really by cuppa tea, but damn it's quick! Takes a bit of getting used to the riding position after a few years riding cruisers.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2011, 11:39 AM
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Now that I see that they worked on your bike recently, I would guess that they didn't set up the throttle correctly when they did the BB kit install. On some EFI systems you need to reset the throttle position sensor and the IAC sensor or motor (which ever Triumph uses) whenever you do major engine work. If they (obviously) moved the stock adjustments on the cables or didn't do the adjustments for the BB kit then that is probably the root cause. They need to re-set up the whole system from scratch as if it were all new parts. This could all simply be a re-map for the 1700 kit as well. The mechanic could have fubared one of your sensors while in there too....easy to do...don't ask me how I know that....he may have failed to re-plug one in all the way as well.

BTW, if you ever get a problem like this in the future. Disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 minutes and then do the 12 minute tune. If that doesn't fix it then take it in.

The difference between a Yuengling and your opinion is that I asked for the Yuengling.

Last edited by BMK9251; 11-01-2011 at 11:44 AM.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-03-2011, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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got the bike back yesterday. Took it for a short ride today (around 50 kms). No problems today, so all good so far. A longer ride this weekend will be required to make sure the problem doesn't return.
According the dealer the bike had a voltage problem. It had apparently dropped below minimum levels, causing the bike to do strange things. They also reloaded the map.
I still have the speedo needle shimmy though, so will be passing that info back onto them. I'm wondering if the shimmy is the start of the complete failure of the speedo as I've read elswhere on these forums? Heat and/or extreme cold is not a cause here though as temperatures are currently only averaging 15c - 20c most days (60 - 69f)
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2011, 10:50 AM
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If you had a voltage drop I would have them do an actual test on:

1. remove, charge and load test battery
2. test voltage regulator
3. test stator output
4. check for open ground. (if they removed the tank to do the BB kit, I would inspect that wiring first)
5. make certain battery cables are clean & tight

I believe the cause of your issue is the result of their work.

The difference between a Yuengling and your opinion is that I asked for the Yuengling.

Last edited by BMK9251; 11-08-2011 at 10:52 AM.
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