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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 12:06 AM
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Tough to get old,huh Daz??? lol Maybe I'll feel the same when I get to be your age!! lol lol Dave!!!
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Once you get it open any chance of a picture? If posting is a concern (was with my first one), just take the picture and send it to one of us - bet one of the 3 D's - Daryl, Dave or Daz would post it for you.
I would but I'm going to be out of pocket in the boonies for about 10 days with very spotty cell or e-mail coverage.
Darn it... wish I had seen this earlier. I pulled the cover off last night, but didn't take any pictures, and have already torqued down the bolts again. If you REALLY want me to, it is still relatively easy for me to get back in there and pull it off... I have yet to get the coolant pipe installed completely. If that sucker was back on, I would say forget it!

Yes, at this moment in time I consider the coolant piping to be the biggest pain for this project.

Not sure what you would see with the pictures. If you do plan on doing this, remember that the coolant is really the biggest hurdle... once you have the cover off, measuring the valve clearances is very easy... they are right there in front of you.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 11:44 AM
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Then ya gotta pull the cams if you need to shim any. Thats where i draw the line and bring it to the dealer. Way too much trouble and chance of screwing up. My speedmaster was far easier because the cams were gear driven off a shaft that itself was driven by the chain and didn't need removal. yet even then i screwed up and dropped a washer into the works as i was zipping her up ! I don't need that kind of aggravation anymore !
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 12:13 PM
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Darn it... wish I had seen this earlier. I pulled the cover off last night, but didn't take any pictures, and have already torqued down the bolts again. If you REALLY want me to, it is still relatively easy for me to get back in there and pull it off... I have yet to get the coolant pipe installed completely. If that sucker was back on, I would say forget it!

Yes, at this moment in time I consider the coolant piping to be the biggest pain for this project.

Not sure what you would see with the pictures. If you do plan on doing this, remember that the coolant is really the biggest hurdle... once you have the cover off, measuring the valve clearances is very easy... they are right there in front of you.
No, forget it, that's fine, I was just curious. Put 'er back together and go riding.

"Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." - Franklin Delano Roosevelt
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 01:15 PM
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I still don't believe that the cams have to be removed to change shims.I believe there were a couple of guys either on here or the other site who have infact changed shims on their bikes without removing the cams.I haven't had to get into it yet,but when I do,I'll be sure and let everyone know if it can be done or not without removing the cams.There are always short cuts to anything.And the words "IMPOSSIBLE" or CAN'T BE DONE" DO NOT exist in this business. Ya just have to stop and look at it. Dave!!!

Last edited by davetac1; 10-20-2011 at 01:18 PM.
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 02:49 PM
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From what i heard there are some that potentially may be able to be changed w/o cam removal, but that some can't due to there being things in the way so you could never get any kind of tool in there to compress the valve. I hope they're wrong, and the first guy that does it and shows all shims can be changed and posts pics will be a frigging immortal hero to all birders for generations to come!
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 08:46 AM
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I still don't believe that the cams have to be removed to change shims.I believe there were a couple of guys either on here or the other site who have infact changed shims on their bikes without removing the cams.I haven't had to get into it yet,but when I do,I'll be sure and let everyone know if it can be done or not without removing the cams.There are always short cuts to anything.And the words "IMPOSSIBLE" or CAN'T BE DONE" DO NOT exist in this business. Ya just have to stop and look at it. Dave!!!
I remember seeing these posts but I forget which site. I think they used a screwdriver to compress the springs althrough I do not like this as it nicks the springs and creates "stress risers" on a already overworked part. BTW if any has had their valves adjusted, not checked but adjusted, you can tell by looking at the chain tensioner at the front of the engine, If it looks ( the bolts mainly ) like it came from the factory chances are they did not adjust the valves. And also the cam cover bolts should should signs of removal as well as other things if you look and I encourage you to do so after the service, if it still looks factory question them hard!!
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 09:43 AM
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I remember dropping it off at the dealer and handing them my mastercard...
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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I remember seeing these posts but I forget which site. I think they used a screwdriver to compress the springs althrough I do not like this as it nicks the springs and creates "stress risers" on a already overworked part. BTW if any has had their valves adjusted, not checked but adjusted, you can tell by looking at the chain tensioner at the front of the engine, If it looks ( the bolts mainly ) like it came from the factory chances are they did not adjust the valves. And also the cam cover bolts should should signs of removal as well as other things if you look and I encourage you to do so after the service, if it still looks factory question them hard!!
The other thing to do if they had to adjust the valves is to ask for the old shims.

Other things to look for after they have done this kind of work is for both oil and coolant leaks. Oil is obvious because of the cover, but in order to get that cover off a coolant pipe has to be removed, and this pipe is attached to two of the biggest offenders of coolant leaks on the bike, those two hose clamp connections up near the top of the radiator.

Also, when they put the cover back on, those four disks you see on the outside of the engine are supposed to be sealed in using a sealant.. there may still be some tell-tale sealant showing, so that is a good indication that they were at least in there.

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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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By the way, I got everything back together last night, and apparently I did everything right the first time, because it fired right up!

Hooked it up to the computer and everything looked good from that end as well. Throttle bodies were still balanced just fine, and engine response was good.

This maintenance sucks, and if you actually have to do a valve adjustment it will suck even more so (I didn't have to do one). If anyone else does this and can take pictures, please tell your story here... I am particularly interested in hearing what they do with all that bloody wiring that gets in the way, and also how much trouble they have getting that cursed coolant piping out and back in again (really, I consider that to have been the hardest part!)

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