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Thunderbird Cruiser Chat Cruiser chat for the the Thunderbird twin

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 12:26 AM
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Main Motorcycle: 2010 Thunderbird SE
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You better look out. With all the gorgeous scenery within two or three tanks of gas. That camping stuff can become habit forming. Next thing you know, you'll be hanging out in the sporting goods section at Wal-Mart. I'll bet your 'Bird ran in 6th gear and never broke a sweat.

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 05:47 AM
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Mpg

My Bird is a 1700, shorty TORS, less restictive air filter, under seat mods, no cat and dynoed.

Just did a weekend ride of 802kms or 501 miles. I averaged 5.82 litres per 100 kms or 52.96 mpg. Mixture of highway and urban with hills thrown in. never went over 110kmh or about 70mph due to lots of boys in blue.

It is the best I have ever got. I run 98% Octane and the bird hums along.

Around town, riding like I stole it I can cut those figures in half.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunder Rat View Post
My Bird is a 1700, shorty TORS, less restictive air filter, under seat mods, no cat and dynoed.

Just did a weekend ride of 802kms or 501 miles. I averaged 5.82 litres per 100 kms or 52.96 mpg. Mixture of highway and urban with hills thrown in. never went over 110kmh or about 70mph due to lots of boys in blue.

It is the best I have ever got. I run 98% Octane and the bird hums along.

Around town, riding like I stole it I can cut those figures in half.
Just out of curiosity. Aside from the Air Filter, what other mods did you find to make under the seat?

56R
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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while you wait 4 him to answer, i can tell you i've tried 2 things....removal of the air duct and removal of the filter seal. The filter seal is the rubber surround that circles the filter mouth....looks like weather stripping. That w/o a doubt helps. Several others found the same thing. The air duct is part of the seat pan and most are screwed onto the base of the seat both from the inside and outside. Some found only outside screws and were therefore able to simply unscrew it. I ave to also remove the seat cover and unscrew it from the inside. Waste of time tho, as i eventually found that actually HURTS performance. So may advice would be remove the seal, leave the duct on. If someday you decide to do other engine mods then all bets are off as to what would or wouldn't be good.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 04:29 AM
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Under seat mods.

As Dazco says, you remove the seal. I then cut away a lot of the plastic under part of the seat with a Dremel. it looks very neat, not a hack job.

This was being done whilst dynoed.The seal was worth about 2hp and the mods another 2-3 from memory.

Overall I am getting about 105 hp and 167 nm of torque(126 ft lbs).

I currently am getting my original 1600 cams re profiled and will be experimenting with pod air filters as they guys doing the work think we will get around the 120 hp mark. Will keep you posted when it is done.
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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I should have mentioned the removal of the duct does seem to get slightly better HP when you wind it out. But it's barely noticeable. The lost torque in the lower RPM's however is very noticeable which is why i and at least one other guy reinstalled it.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-26-2011, 11:30 AM
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Am I missing something here? The seat seal is what forces the air to go IN through the center of the filter - the air then comes OUT of the filter and goes into the intake port of the engine. If you remove that seal - you are bypassing your filter and in effect letting unfiltered air into your engine. Like I said, unless I am missing something? 2hp is not worth running unfiltered air - might as well save the $$ and just run it without the filter in place at all. The ducting would be a seperate issue between the seal and the outside incoming air from what I can see?

---Daryl

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