Naked as a TBird (painting the 1600) - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-23-2011, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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Naked as a TBird (painting the 1600)

Greetings,

I've made a few other posts concerning the painting of my 2010 Tbird 1600. I pulled the trigger yesterday, and took the bike apart.

Removing the pieces only took a couple of hours, would have taken less except for the front fender. Removing the front fender was the most difficult because of the 4 torx head screws. They were installed with Lock-tite (red). They came out but one of them got pretty chewed up and I'll have to replace it.

The rear fender was a snap, because I had already re-done all the wiring (for my custom work). Once the wiring harness is removed, remove the 6 bolts and it comes right out.

The tank was easy also, remove the console, the front bolt on the tank. Raise the tank and remove the one vacuum line, the fuel line and both wiring connections. remove the back bolt and set the tank to the side. If your planning on painting, don't fill-up before hand (DOH!). De-fuel and let the tank air/drain for a few hours.

Here are a few pictures of my bike "Naked as a TBird".







I'll post a few more tomorrow after I've done some wet sanding.

Comments are welcome... no flames please, I will treat this post as a work log until the project is done.

hagatha
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-24-2011, 12:30 AM
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Did you apply a little heat to the loctited screws? Heat releases red loctite.
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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-24-2011, 02:09 AM
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Sounds like the front fender bolt recall was done with "gusto" or the factory got the message and wasn't taking any chances.
BTW - great project - I'll be watching with interest!

"Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." - Franklin Delano Roosevelt
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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-25-2011, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Greetings,

I used a heat-gun on those front fender bolts, but because there is a rubber mounting gromet lining each hole, you can't use to much heat. I did have the recall done during my first service.

I spent several hours getting each piece ready for primer. Started with 320, and worked up to 600 to get the majority of the clear off and feather out any nicks in the paint. Triumph uses a black and a white primer. I had to do quite a bit of sanding on the stripe to get it flat. From what I can tell, Triumph uses 2 different primers one coat each, 2 coats base color, 2 coats mid flake, and 2 coats clear. When you start sanding they show like rings on tree.



I used Delton 2k primer (acid etching). There is a total of 2+ coats, after the first coat I sanded it with 600 to reduce the surface texture. The 2nd coat (much heavier) to fill and feather the spots that needed a little filler. it was sanded with 1000 down to a (almost) glossy finish. The 3rd (only where needed) coat was to dust the spots where the primer was sanded thin, and sanded using 1000 again.



Tomorrow I'll check each piece in the bright sun light and sand any spots that need it, with 1200.... careful not to sand through the primer. These pieces will cure until Thursday, when I will go to the paint booth and shoot the base color coats and the mid pearl coats.

Friday is clear day.... The clear is the hardest to get right...

more to follow then.

hagatha
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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 12:44 AM
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Subscribed! Very cool.

What if there were no hypothetical questions?
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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 02:14 PM
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This will be fun to watch. Keep the pics coming, hagatha.
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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Greetings,

I started yesterday with setting up my "Booth", I'll post pics tonight. I sanded a couple of spots that I missed, (the bright sunlight helps) to get ready for painting.

Prep takes 9/10 of the time you'll spend painting!!! You need to check and recheck everything. Lay everything out, the base coat (color) and reducer, clean everything to even washing your measuring cups before you start. Put the air dryer inline, adjust the pressure according to your gun... wet down the floor, lay a wet towel inside the booth near your work station... The wet floor and towel help keep the dust from getting blown around when you paint. Don't forget your respirator and glasses!!!

Well the base coat (color) layed down pretty smooth 3 coats then touched up a spot or 2 that needed sanding... and then final coat, I let the color dry for about and hour while I cleaned up and layed everything for the mid coat (pearl).

The pearl went OK... I had some orange peel on the top of the tank, but I'm pretty sure I can fill it with the clear. After all the pieces got their 3rd coat of pearl I cleaned up for the night, and let them cure over night. There is this thing called "Solvent POP" where if you clear coat to soon, the reducer in the base and mid coats creates bubbles under the clear. It is some times called "fish eyes".

I got home from work today and set up for the clear... This is by far the most important part of a paint job. If it gets messed up it is "Start all over again" "Do not pass GO and Do not collect $200".

Like I said I'll post a few pics to night.

hagatha
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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Greetings,

I went out and took a couple of pics...

Here is my paint booth.

BOM
Large sheets of Cardboard (Lowe's)
24x24 dust only air filter
24" shop fan
1 roll (or more) tape.
saw horses or table to set it on.

Don't laugh... it worked great! It created just enough over pressure to keep the dust down, along with giving the garage a good cleaning. (a leaf blower works great)


you can see what color I'm painting it now.... (my parents had a 1959 Ford TBird, and I always liked the color) It was a plain Turquoise, I added a silver pearl. Notice the light I put in the top...


You can see the wet towel and my turntable... (front fender)


Simple huh...

I am not a pro by any means... I'm actually a cabinet maker by trade. I paid $90 for the gun... Sooo with a little homework, asking lots of questions at the paint store... and reading a bit on line... anyone can paint their bike...

Now the next step is to let the Clear cure for 24 hrs, then wetsand with 1500. (I got a small run on the tank and a nib on the rear fender) Then it's to the buffer and compound...

I'll Post again later.

Oh, I went by the bike shop today, and they gave me 4 new front fender bolts... I also found out that the heat shield under the tank is required...

hagatha
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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 06:34 PM
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This might be a silly question, but I have no experience with this sort of thing...

Do you keep the fan running while the paint is drying, or only while you are actually painting?

What if there were no hypothetical questions?
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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 08:29 PM
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keep the pics of your project coming. This is very interesting to watch.

Thanks

Willy T

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