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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Do I really hafta....

...remove the whole rear wheel assembly to change the rear brake pads? Please tell me there is some easier way to accomplish this...

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 09:09 PM
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No, you don't have to remove the wheel. But it *can be* a bit of a contortionist's nightmare depending on how well you think it out. I remove the left muffler to make it as easy as possible. Theres a pin that goes thru the tops of the pads that hold them in. The bottom ends are held in by the shape of the bottom of the pads....they sort slip into a slot. Thats probably not a good choice of words, but you'll see what i mean when you do it. Anyways, you have to remove a cotter pin that goes thru the pin that holds the pads in place. pull it out then you can drive the pin out with a hammer and a small screwdriver or something that will fit thru the hole the pin is in. drive it out from the left towards the wheel. Once oput you can pull the pads out then push the pistons in to gain room for the new pads. I'll leave that to you, as it's a matter of getting a big screwdriver in there or some such thing, and i can't recall exactly what i used. But i can say it's a but of a contortionist kinda thing. You know....real fun stuff. Anyways, once pushed in enough to get the pads in slip them in and focus on getting the bottom of each pad hooked in place so when you put the pin thru the top the bottoms are not loose....they must be locked in place. Hard to explain a lot of this but again, you'll get it when you do it. Then drive the pin back in making sure the hole in the end of it for the cotter pin is situated so that once it's in it will be orientated right so the pin can go thru w/o having to try and turn it.

Hope that helps. But it's just a general outline that you will have to improvise thru if i missed any points or if some aren't clear. I'd like to have documented it on video, but i asked about putting a section in here for that sort of thing and so far nothing has materialized. Anyways, just go for it and you'll see it's not all that hard. Took me about 20 min/half hour.

Last edited by dazco; 09-18-2011 at 09:12 PM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, cool. Thanks Daz. I'll repost and let you know how it goes....

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 09:43 PM
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Ya forgot to tell him one more thing Daz.The little clip that fits thru the hole in the pin has alittle bend on it.that bend must be facing INBOARD or towards the wheel.Other than that,good explanation.Can I hire you?? lol lol Dave!!!
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 10:03 PM
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He||, i probably forgot a ton of things. But thats why i said it was just a general outline and that he would figure some things out himself. But just knowing it CAN be done would have him going at it and he'd likely figure all of it out. He just had to know it's doable. First time i did it was when the wheel was off for a new tire and i didn't know i could have done it w/o the wheel off till i later heard it could in someone's post. Then i just figured it out myself. But had i not heard it could be done i never would have tried because it didn't see doable or if it was i figured it would be a horror story.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 12:39 AM
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In the repair business,the words "CAN'T BE DONE" or "IMPOSSIBLE" do NOT exist.There are always alternatives or ways around anything.All ya gotta do is look and think about it.It'll come to ya.I think about these supposedly impossible jobs that I get conned into every now and then,and go to bed thinkin about the "HOW" I'm gonna do it.Or,and this works pretty good too,go for a ride on the scooter.You'd be surprised how that will clear your mind.And sometimes ya wake up in the middle of the night with the solution and go out to your shop and do it right then and there.I've been there many times too. lol Dave!!!

Last edited by davetac1; 09-19-2011 at 12:46 AM.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-21-2011, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. Is it normal for these to run a little bit hot at first until they break in? Caliper sliders are totally free before you ask....

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-21-2011, 06:36 PM
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How do you mean? are you smelling them or something? i never noticed anything that would lead me to believe they are hotter than normal.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-21-2011, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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At first they were, then I read back about having that locking pin in a certain way. I had it backwards and I think it might have been forcing the top of the pad against the rotor. I switched it around and went for a longer ride and they seem to work fine. Galfer Organics, so they stink right out of the pack....

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-28-2011, 11:48 PM
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Sorry to resurrect this thread again, but I just wanted to check one thing regarding the position of the bent 'R' clip: the clip IS supposed to go between the new brake pad and the calliper, right? Not on the outside of the pad and therefore nearer the disc rotor?
I've just put in the 1st set of pads, and stupidly didn't note the exact position of the 'R' clip vis-a-vis the pad, i.e. whether it was on the disc side of the pad or the back side of it. The pin appears to be fully seated, so I presume it only fits one way... Any thoughts or clarification? thanks, Pat

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