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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-14-2011, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Shifting and seal problem W/new T-Bird

I'm gonna throw this one out to anyone that has had or knows of someone that has had this problem. 2010 T-Bird 1600 SE. If I cruise in 5th or 6th for about 15 minutes plus and then start downshifting (coming off the freeway) when I get to 3rd I cannot downshift into 2nd or 1st until I actually stop. There is no grinding or any other unusual sounds, it just seems to get stuck. Any other time I am riding, like in traffic or on side streets etc, I don't have a problem. I took it to the shop and they have not heard of this problem. They also took it out for a test and they were able to duplicate the problem. They removed the clutch cover and my clutch is in spec now they are talking about going in deeper by splitting the eng/trans. Any help would be appreciated. Oh yeah, one more thing-it only has 800 miles on it. Thanx. One more thing, this only started after the first service at 500 miles.

Last edited by Mojo T-Bird; 06-14-2011 at 06:38 PM. Reason: Forgot to add something
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-14-2011, 06:50 PM
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This is a long shot, but being the dealer failed and you're desprite maybe it's worth mentioning. These bike are so dependent on what the ECU sees and does in so many ways that maybe it would be worth trying the 12 minute tune. The bike has a gear position sensor, and while i don't see how it could affect how the gearbox works, it may be worth a try crazy as it sounds. Sure cant hurt, and a lot of running issues are cured by doing this "adaption" procedure called the 12 minute tune by many. The process goes like this...

1)-start the bike but do NOT ever touch the throttle

2)-let it idle and when the fan comes on (which could take 10 min or more) start a timer or keep your eye on a clock, and 12 minutes from the time the fan started up turn the bike off. Done

If you touch the throttle any time during the procedure you'll have to start again. It's also a good idea to put a fan on the radiator because even water cooled it will get very hot sitting there idling for what will overall probably take 20-25 minutes.

Like i said, i don't see how that ECU and the gear sensor data could affect how the tranny operates, but stranger things have happened and like i said there are lots of issues ths has cured because this bike is so very dependent on it's brain, the ECU.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-14-2011, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thank U Dazco. It's still at the shop so I am going to send your suggestion to them. They really don't want to split the eng/trans unless absolutley necessary so they may be willing to give this a try. I'll let you know. While I have your attention, a couple of months back I had to take it in because I smelled coolant and I could see little dried spots of it on the bike. When I took it in they said it was a problem they had seen on some of the 2010 birds. They said that the seals were faulty and needed to be replaced as well as the hoses needed to be tightned up which they did and it took care of the problem. Have you run into this as well? I'm beginning to think I got the Demon possesed bike. Thanks for you help.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-14-2011, 09:26 PM
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Not to be overly simplistic, but have you checked the slack adjustment on the clutch cable at the lever? Mine was balky on downshifts too. I would have to slip the clutch out slightly to get the tranny to cooperate. After adjusting to the 2mm spec in the book it seems to work fine.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-14-2011, 09:34 PM
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Coolant leaks are the one and only issue thats been very common with this bike, and most have had it to one degree or another. But there are many reasons for it and only one that was a actual issue with a part which they eventually changed. Once taken care of you should be fine. Chances are in fact the leak was just loose hose clamps, which many have seen because apparently for some reason they didn't tighten them enough at the factory.

You didn't get a lemon, you just got one with an uncommon issue. Hopefully they will be able to rectify it. If you tell them to try my suggestion they will surely tell you it's a stupid one. And i can't say i totally disagree, as i did say i don't see how. But if i have learned one thing in all my years it's that sometimes something that seems ridiculous and impossible turns out to work because of one reason that it might work that you never thought of. It does have a gear position sensor, and who knows whether it is connected in both directions, not just read, if you get what i'm saying. Also consider that if it started after the 500 as you said, maybe they did something or maybe the oil they used sucks. i have zero trust in dealers and always consider them guilty till proven innocent because i've had plenty of reason to think that way. So my first thought would be they used some garbage $1 a quart no name oil. Figure if thier cost is 50% of retail, they would make about $20 extra by putting junk oil in your bike. One thing that is always associated with shifting issues is oil type/brand. Just more food for thought.

EDIT: oh yes ! Posted when balto did, but he's right...i have seen others say the same thing. Check the clutch. (then again, if the dealer didn't already they are awful lame !)
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-14-2011, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Well I know that when they did the 500 check they adjusted the clutch cable to spec and of course they did the oil change and the worksheet says they used Castrol RS R4 10w50. The weird thing about this is it shifts fine shifting up from 1st to 6th but cruising in top gear and coming back down is the only time it has this issue with 3rd, 2nd and 1st. I can push down on the shifter and it won't budge until I stop the bike and then I can shift down and then it seems to let go and all is well. As long as I am shifting on a regular basis it is fine but like I said, if I cruise for 15 min or more in top gear, it won't cooperate. I assume that if it was the cable adjustment, it would do it in all gears not just the bottom three, should I assume the same with the oil. But I will make these suggestions to them anyway. Keep the suggestions coming and thanks again.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-16-2011, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Dazco & Balt, here's the reply I got from the mechanic at the shop. Dazco, your idea wasn't a crazy one at all. It didn't fix it but it was worth a try. I picked up the bike today, they took off the heel/toe shifter and floorboard and put on just the peg and toe shifter. They want to see if more direct force on the downshift will have an affect. I also am paying closer attention to how I downshift. I will run it a few days and see what happens. We are trying to do whatever we can because none of us want to split the case.

I have dealt with bad dealerships with bikes and cars and I can tell you that these guys have always been upfront and straight with me and they have bent over backwards to get me riding. So I don't have any trust issues with them; by the way they are RPM Cycles in Farmers Branch Texas, just north of Dallas.

If anyone else has any suggestions, feel free to chime in and thanks again Daz and Balt!

John,

The oil we use is the only oil and viscosity that triumph endorses, castrol triumph blend. We always use the best stuff the clutch cable has an adjustment measurement of either three or four mm freeplay which is the first thing I looked at and had to be redone after I removed your clutch cover. The "twelve minute tuneup" that was spoke of is actually called an adaption process. It is done on every bike that leaves our store. It takes readings from all the sensors associated with the fuel injection system to help ensure the most perfect air/fuel mixture in individual climates and environments. along with that the ecu goes through a constant adaption process during riding at or above operating temperature. Trust me john, I have done everything aside from splitting the cases. Give it a try for a while and just try to remember exactly what you are doing if it happens again. I am off tomorrow if you pick it up but email any time
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 01:34 PM
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Mojo,

Just had the same experience twice this weekend. First time I was on the way to the dealer and rolling uphill to a stop sign when the bike would not downshift. Felt like the shifter was already at the bottom. The mechanic lubed the heel - toe linkage and took it for a test ride and could not replicate the problem. Happened again the day after on my way up a twisty country road. Time to downshift for the next curve and she wouldnt budge. I'm getting ready for a week long trip and this has got me on edge for sure. Mine is a 2010 1600 with 6000+ miles. I'll be back to the dealer tomorrow but concerned about their ability to quickly and correctly diagnose and fix.

Kevin
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-24-2011, 12:18 PM
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2011, 09:54 AM
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Interesting that both of you above have the heel-toe linkage - a few more mechanical parts that can get out of whack - bet the dealer already checked the obvious though.

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