BB kit cams vs stock 1700 cams - Page 3 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-15-2011, 08:49 PM
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1700 cams in my bike

exhaust - A1145214
intake - A1143117

original 1600 cams

exhaust - 2716484
intake - 2711717

no answers just some data


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post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-15-2011, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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also note that there may be more than one number for the 1600 cams and also for the 1700 due to the fact they changed them at some point by beefing up the defective design of the decompression weights on the exhaust cam. I assume the intakes wouldn't have been changed tho. Just something to note in case it causes confusion in your quest to find out.
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post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-16-2011, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by dazco View Post
Just thought of something druade....you are running the stock #20310 1700/TORs tune aren't you? if so, try dizze's 1st tune, the one thats WITH cat. Thats what i'm running. It's pretty strong. Does eat more fuel tho, at least on mine.
Sorry mate went to bed. Yes Im using the standard 1700 tune. The thought of using a tuner scares the bejeezus out of me If Im honest m8 I wish I lived near you lol .
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post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-16-2011, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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It couldn't be easier to use tuneecu. I mean, remove the left side cover, plug the cable into the bike there and into the PC's USB port. Open tuneecu, load the new map into tuneecu, and turn the bike's key on without starting it. When the light turns green at the bottom right corner of tuneecu window, choose download from the context menu. In about 15 seconds it will say download done and thats it. I've done it 20 times with never a glitch.

I may try going back to the 20310 map tho because this fuel mileage is getting tiring. I got 40 twice but now i just got 34 again. Not sure why, tho it could be that mystery oil i used finally being gone after 3 tanks. (because every time i fill up theres usually a couple gallons left) Maybe that stuff does work, but whatever it is the stock map gets about 3-6 MPG better.
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post #25 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 08:17 AM
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I had read somewhere that the cams from the BB were the cams in the Storm. Who knows. For Victory, opening them up with pipes and airbox, with a tune, is the first bump in power. (and nicer sound) Then I believe it's the cams with a fuel controller. After that, a big bore I believe. I have all in my '02 except cams, and am getting some nice numbers. I was told my TC's cams work well with the BB I use.

BATMAN
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post #26 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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DruAde...a little update here. You were definately right about the bike running much stronger without the seal. And i have some good info here for anyone who's looking at airway options. There are 3 options we know of at the filter opening....seal on, seal off, and the entire seat duct off. The 3rd option in most cases require removing the seat covering because there are not only screws on the outside holding it on, but on the inside too. To anyone who doesn't know, i did just that about 6 months ago. So i've been running with no seat duct. So here how it went....when new my bike's seal was 1/2 off because the flange had separated from the seal part 1/2 way around the filter mouth, and i taped it back into place. But it popped back off so i tore it completely off. So i never really knew what difference the seal made except on the stock bike, and there it seems not to matter. So later i took the duct off and ran it like that all the way past my BB install till recently when i told you that i put the seal back and got better torque. Well. it didn't hit me that it was the duct that made the difference, not the seal. So i removed the seal and now i'm running like you, duct but no seal. It's running like a brute ! This weekend i experimented with all 3 scenarios and the results were duct off=worse power over all, duct and seal on=like duct off but better low end torque, and duct on/no seal=best overall. 3rd scenario seems to run better than the other 2 in all ranges. So thats why you and I had different results....my seal was off too, but so was the duct. Not sure if the duct being off runs so much worse because there is too much flow or because it's a smoother flow with the duct. But in any case the bike really goes now. I'm digging this a lot !

Now i suppose this may be very dependent on the tune. If you had a tune made with the duct off maybe the results would be the opposite. But for anyone considering taking the duct off i'd say don't. Just pull the seal.
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post #27 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 04:48 PM
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Super work Daz , does that meen Im not going completely mad then . More to the point my brother who cant stop going on about it .

Cheers for the work in this and getting some good results . I think your right maybe in you duct off seal off version there is too much air and its running too lean? Maybe a tweak or two might fix that and get even more ummph. Good to hear you are getting better results and its very interesting .

Keep up the good work.
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post #28 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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More to the point my brother who cant stop going on about it
I think i understand why he does.....it takes the bike to a point where it has the kind of pull that doesn't leave you aching for more. Kinda like your minimum expectations/desires finally met. I've had it running like this before, but i can't remember what setup i had between all the tuneecu changes i've made and the hardware stuff. And it's so nice to get back to it because I was starting to feel like it wasn't running to my minimum expectations as it was before. And i was right. But you really should try dizze's 1st tune with your setup since it's the same as mine. I think it gives about as much benefit as the tors did, or at least close. I'll always be up for more power, but as it sits now i'd be satisfied if i was told it will never get stronger.
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post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 10:33 PM
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dazco, Is it because the seat duct puts (pardon the pun) "english" on the air flow? Forcing the air to run around the filter rather than sucking most of the air through a limited section of the filter. Possibly indicated by the dirt patterns on the filter. Heavier concentrations on specific parts of the filter. You've mentioned filters before. I was just wondering if you noticed anything?

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post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Lantesh View Post
They wouldn't have to change any tooling. I believe the cams come in to the factory as cast blanks. An operator would put the cam blank into a machine that grinds it according to what a computer tells it to. So they should easily be able to machine a different profile by simply changing the specs in the computer.

Yup, they probably grind them on a Kellenberger. You only have to change a couple values in the "canned cycles" to raise or lower the lobe height or width. I wouldn't be surprised if they have half a dozen different profiles stored in the control for different production runs or R&D runs. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if all the Triumph cams for all models are ground on the same machine. 60,000 parts annually is pretty light duty for a CNC machine.

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