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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I think I've fixed the major problems with my 74 T750V.

Been chasing oil leaks (well, duh!) and just finished the Service Bulletin mainshaft gear/countershaft splines work. Seeing minor drips from the primary still. Not sure if it's inner or outer yet but it's not too bad right now. Plus, there's no oil running out when the bike is on the sidestand.

Biggest advancement was getting the clutch adjusted. I can snick into gear w/o killing the motor, find nuetral at a dead stop, smoothly up and down shift, and don't (yet) feel any slipping. Yeah!

I may be able to ride this beast to the Bull City Rumble yet (Durham, NC, Labor Day weekend).

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Discussion Starter #6
Got the rear tire mounted. Front was completed yesterday. Get the rear on the bike and I can take it out on the road. The tires on the bike when I got it were the original, from the factory, tires. I did find that the front had a new(er) tube in it though. Seemed strange.

Have I mentioned how much I dislike security bolts? Yeah, I thought I did!


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Hi from another T150V bike owner from Ontario, Canada.
Sealing our bike's primary could be quite tricky. :)
The same with setting up a clutch.
Are you sure your big nut under a small one on a pull rod turns around?
Operating our gearbox however is pure pleasure ( comparing to my sold A65 ).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi from another T150V bike owner from Ontario, Canada.

Sealing our bike's primary could be quite tricky. :)

The same with setting up a clutch.

Are you sure your big nut under a small one on a pull rod turns around?

Operating our gearbox however is pure pleasure ( comparing to my sold A65 ).
Hey there from North Carolina!

Once I got everything disassembled, Yamabond sealed the primary apparently quite well! So far, anyway.

The entire clutch mechanism from lever to pull rod, was taken apart, cleaned, properly lubed and reassembled. Then the adjustment finally worked correctly. That large nut has 0.005" clearance, just what the manual specifies. Guess the engineers knew what they were talking about, eh?

There is still oil drips showing up when parked after running but nothing like before I started fixing things. I think the chain oiler is putting out too much as well. I might just wait until Winter to work on those minor drips.

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I'm getting back to the Trident again. Had a couple of personal setbacks other than the current world situation. So I'll catch you up.

Made to Bull City Rumble and back and lost a quart and a half of oil for a 50 mile ride! Nearly all the remaining oil dropped out over the next several months. Hummmmm. . .

Decided to replace the clutch cable and the pull rod. Read things that suggests these should improve the clutch action.

Tore things down looking for places that could indicate where the oil is escaping. Didn't see anything real obvious except for . . .

  • Found 2 paper gaskets under the oil pump.
  • Found a bad o-ring on the oil pump.
  • Found a 'chip' missing on the inner primary case around the oil pump. See photo.
  • Found that on of the hex bolts on the inner primary case goes right thru to the crankcase.
So, would / could these things cause oil to collect in the primary and exit thru normal drain holes?

Kind of at a loss here. Thx.
IMG_20200424_172707389.jpg
IMG_20200424_172727145.jpg
 

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Hi Neal,

2 paper gaskets under the oil pump
... and the upper image in the same post says DPO has been there ... With the Triples On Line forum having been around for over twenty years and the triples-dedicated part of BritBike having been around for about sixteen years - both with innumerable how-tos on extracting the oil pump - the only reason for that sort of damage is congenital stupidity ... ?

lost a quart and a half of oil for a 50 mile ride! Nearly all the remaining oil dropped out over the next several months.
could these things cause oil to collect in the primary and exit thru?
This is confused ... there aren't any "normal drain holes" in the primary ...

Triples have two "primarys" (sic) - "Inner" and "Outer". Outer primary not only contains the primary chain - so contains oil to lubricate it, the crankcase vents through the main bearing into it (and then out to the airbox) - so there are oil droplets. For (I hope) obvious reasons, the outer primary has only one external drain hole, with a bolt that normally blocks it.

Otoh, the inner primary is dry; if nothing else, it contains the clutch ... which runs dry. There are slots in the lower edge of the primary case - I don't know if the designers intended them as such but they're a nice size for a flat lever when removing the inner primary case. However, because a triple's inner primary is dry, these aren't "drain holes".

So is the "lost ... oil" coming from these slots in the inner primary case lower edge? If yes, the oil is leaking from somewhere else into the inner primary; obvious first place than needs fixing is the damage around the oil pump hole in the inner primary. If you need professional help fixing the damage, I recommend Triple Tecs or Mitch Klempf. While you're at it, I also recommend having the oil pump checked - their quality's variable but given what a DPO's managed to do in the vicinity ...

on of the hex bolts on the inner primary case goes right thru to the crankcase.
IIrc, the two screws with heads in the middle of the outer primary case, their threads also go through the case between the outer and inner primary compartments, so oil can leak along those threads from into the inner primary compartment - sealer required during assembly (fwiw, I use Hylomar).

Decided to replace the clutch cable and the pull rod.
Did you also replace the pullrod bearing in the clutch? Ideally, with an angular thrust bearing? Nonetheless, excellent result on the clutch. (y)

Hth.

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the info. All good stuff there.

One more question. Which way does the clutch pull rod seal point? With the 'open' faceing towards the clutch or away from the clutch. I haven't found a good picture and I want to get it right.
 

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The seal drives into the nut with the spring facing you. Think of where the oil is, the spring always faces the oil. So the 'flat front' of the seal drives into the nut face first, you can't see it.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got everything reassembled to my satisfaction.
IMG_20200508_122946308.jpg
Replaced the rocker box gaskets and readjusted the valves while I was at it. Also installed the repro mufflers I bought 'cause I like the look better than the original cigar shaped beasts. These sound about the same. And once again, spent considerable time with the clutch adjustment. The new pull rod and cable make a world of difference but this is one of the most difficult clutch mechanisms I've ever dealt with. Hopefully it will stay in adjustment.

Now we wait until tomorrow to see if there are any oil leaks. Haven't seen any this afternoon! Fingers crossed.
 

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You can expect oil leaks to show up after few hundred km of riding, depends on gaskets and seals you used.
I went from regular gaskets to covseal type for rocker boxes ( and my rocker boxes are doweled ) + my head gasket is a cometic type ( 3 steel plates with glue on both sides with oil holes seals ) and still had some oil showing up on primary side of a head apparently from upper pushrod tube seals.
I used some sealant on those seals during winter and have to start riding to see how it holds, bur we still have winter weather in Ontario.
2 winters ago I installed "beauty kit" exhaust system - exactly like yours and I like it much better then my previous aftermarket Jardin 3 in 1 system.
Much nicer sound and little quieter.
 
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