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Discussion Starter #1
I can't get all four signals to work.

I'm using the following items, all from British Customs
- Lucas FEK which comes with wiring harness (X1)
- Brushed Bullet Turn Signals (X 4)
- Turn Signal Harness (X4)

Everything hooks up fine. BUT I can't get them all to work. After many permutations, and a few blown fuses, here's where I am:

With only two front signal hooked up, they flash simultaneously instead of independently when the signal button is pushed in either direction. This at least tells me that both lights work.

I then tried to connect one light at a time. I turn the bike off between each step.

One light - rear right - Works correctly with the signal button.
Two lights - both rears - Works correctly with the signal button
Three lights - both rear plus front left - Works
Four lights - brief flash then nothing.

I have no idea what to do now. Any ideas?
 

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I can't get all four signals to work.

I'm using the following items, all from British Customs
- Lucas FEK which comes with wiring harness (X1)
- Brushed Bullet Turn Signals (X 4)
- Turn Signal Harness (X4)

Everything hooks up fine. BUT I can't get them all to work. After many permutations, and a few blown fuses, here's where I am:

With only two front signal hooked up, they flash simultaneously instead of independently when the signal button is pushed in either direction. This at least tells me that both lights work.

I then tried to connect one light at a time. I turn the bike off between each step.

One light - rear right - Works correctly with the signal button.
Two lights - both rears - Works correctly with the signal button
Three lights - both rear plus front left - Works
Four lights - brief flash then nothing.

I have no idea what to do now. Any ideas?
Are these LED turn signals or incandescent?

First thing is to check the grounding on the turn signal units. If they are 2 wire, the body of the light unit should not be grounding to the frame. This usually doesn't really make a difference with incandescents but certainly does with LED units. Open each light unit in turn and check for frayed wire ends or bad soldering etc.

After that, check the rating of your flasher unit (relay). If you have LED turn signals the relay has to be rated for LEDs. The stock relay will flash so fast with LED units that it buzzes or not at all. I suspect that it is this that is the cause of your problem but the grounding is always worth checking.
 

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Ok, I've just been to the BC site and looked up the turn signals. I think the ones that you refer to are the LockHart Philips, part number EL01-006C.

I note that these take halogen incandescent bulbs, and I would bet that they are rated at 21 watts (or possibly even 23 watts) each. If you are still using the stock flasher unit this will not handle so much wattage - the stock turn signal bulbs are only 10 watts each. You would need to replace the flasher relay with a heavier duty type, rated at least at 100 watts. Virtually any 'off the shelf' 3 pin relay from a motor parts store would be up to the job, though you might need to reposition the wires in the relay base. This is a simple job to do, the relay wiring colours are as follows:

Orange / Green - Terminal marked 49, B or +
Light Green - Terminal marked 49a or L
Black - Terminal marked 31, E or -
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks for the replies. Here's more info. The units I ordered did specify that they are halogen. I am using a front signal relocation bracket (an OEM Thruxton part) that mounts the lights below the headlight.

I also read a few threads regarding LED lights having similar issues related to the signal indicator idiot light and how it grounds to the opposite signal. Though mine aren't LED, could this also be the issue I'm having?

Can I simply use the bulbs from the stock lights? Or are they different style bulbs?

Newbie Question: Where is the flasher relay?
 

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Thanks for the replies. Here's more info. The units I ordered did specify that they are halogen. I am using a front signal relocation bracket (an OEM Thruxton part) that mounts the lights below the headlight.

I also read a few threads regarding LED lights having similar issues related to the signal indicator idiot light and how it grounds to the opposite signal. Though mine aren't LED, could this also be the issue I'm having?

Can I simply use the bulbs from the stock lights? Or are they different style bulbs?
One of those 'bipolar' LED idiot lights might cause both sides to flash simultaneously, but that would also apply to the rear lights, which you said work properly so I ruled out that option. To me it seems as though connecting the 4th light unit is one too many for the relay.

I can't answer your question about the bulbs because I have no idea what type the BC units contain. I have 21 watt halogen turn signals (now fitted with LED bulbs) and these are BAY9S. The stock light units are BA15S (the meaning of these numbers - BA stands for Bayonet, Y = 120 degree offset pins, 15 = 15mm diameter, S = Single connection).

I would take off the lens of one of the BC units and see what type of bulb it takes.

The flasher relay is under the left hand side panel, next to the starter solenoid.

I also noted that the BC units have only a single wire, whereas the stock units have 2 wires. The 2nd wire on the stock units is the ground. Instead of a wire, the BC units ground through their bodies being bolted to the frame. Make sure that all the units have a good ground connection - ie. that they are not bolted to a painted part which would insulate them from the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks Ripper. It's late and cold outside, so I gotta wait 'til tomorrow. But I'm gonna look at the bulbs and probably pick up a relay too.

The lights I received from BC have two wires, both with bullet connectors. One was black, I'm assuming the ground. The other was black with white stripe. They went right into the harness, which in turn connected to the stock female connectors.

The light units are bolted to the new front bracket, which came black powder-coated. The bracket is attached behind the rectifier. I'm assuming this would allow the lights to be adequately insulated from the frame (?).

Thanks for the info on bulbs. Not being familiar with a lot of electrical jargon, I'm certainly getting an education. I think all these issues, while sometimes frustrating, is enhancing my ownership. With each project, I feel more connected to the bike.
 

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Thanks Ripper. It's late and cold outside, so I gotta wait 'til tomorrow. But I'm gonna look at the bulbs and probably pick up a relay too.

The lights I received from BC have two wires, both with bullet connectors. One was black, I'm assuming the ground. The other was black with white stripe. They went right into the harness, which in turn connected to the stock female connectors.

The light units are bolted to the new front bracket, which came black powder-coated. The bracket is attached behind the rectifier. I'm assuming this would allow the lights to be adequately insulated from the frame (?).

Thanks for the info on bulbs. Not being familiar with a lot of electrical jargon, I'm certainly getting an education. I think all these issues, while sometimes frustrating, is enhancing my ownership. With each project, I feel more connected to the bike.
Greetings,

Splice a short wire with a terminal ring into your ground. Attach the terminal ring to the bolt on one of your turn signal housings. Should be good to go. That's how I fixed the same "both blinking" problem with my BC tail lights. :)

Photon
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just noticed from other threads that on the aftermarket lights, the black with white striped wire is the ground as opposed to the black wire. I'm going to switch everything first. Then I'll try solving things with all your ideas in mind.

Thanks Photon for the tip on the terminal ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
After making sure the wiring was right, I swapped the bulbs from the stock lights to the new BC units. That did the trick. The less total wattage makes a difference. Visually, I'm sure there is a difference brightness, but for now it's at least as bright as stock.

Sent from my GT-P7510 using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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After making sure the wiring was right, I swapped the bulbs from the stock lights to the new BC units. That did the trick. The less total wattage makes a difference. Visually, I'm sure there is a difference brightness, but for now it's at least as bright as stock.
I'm glad we have a result. You are correct that the aftermarket signal units use the black/white wire as the ground, however I never take that to be gospel because there is always one manufacturer that does not follow convention. This would only matter, in your case, if you were using LED signal units since LEDs will only work connected one way whereas a bulb will work either way around. Since your signal units are 2 wire, there is no need to ground them with ring connectors on the mounting nuts. The picture on BC's website showed them as single wire which is why I was so concerned about proper grounding.

There will be a difference visually because the 10 watt stock bulbs are nowhere near as bright as the halogen bulbs used by BC, which are a higher wattage as well, hence your problem.

You can always fit a heavier duty relay and go back to the halogen bulbs if you want them brighter, but don't bother with branded relays since they are much too expensive. Any generic car relay would do the job fine. I would be happy to advise you on how to switch the relay wiring around to suit if the relay did not have the same pin configuration of the stock relay.

Perhaps now you have your new turn signals up and running, you might consider fitting an emergency hazard function as your next project?

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-technical-talk/214560-adding-hazard-indicators.html#post2311527
 

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That is quite interesting to me. I did not replace my flasher and i have the same signals with no issues.
I put this down to variations in component tolerances, or perhaps your units have different bulbs. The stock relay doesn't handle much in the way of wattage, the 10 watt stock bulbs are just about as much as it can take.
 

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I put this down to variations in component tolerances, or perhaps your units have different bulbs. The stock relay doesn't handle much in the way of wattage, the 10 watt stock bulbs are just about as much as it can take.
Perhaps. My bulbs are confirmed 23W bulbs though. Bottom line, the guy with the problem has a working motorcycle. That is the important thing.
 

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