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T595
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi what is either the correct or optimal lever arm position on these bikes, mine being the T595?
Mine was fixed at around 11 O’clock but I have since taken it off to clean, grease, and fit new rubber seals to the ball joints. Also looking at an additional bush to pick up the slack at the gear-pedal/foot-peg ‘joint.’
So, back on as was...or adjust the bar between the ball joints and fit the gear lever arm differently?
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11oclock is problem where it was originally, general you would put the gear leaver to where you find best suited to change gear .you can do final adjustment on the threaded bar
 

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T595
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
11oclock is problem where it was originally, general you would put the gear leaver to where you find best suited to change gear .you can do final adjustment on the threaded bar
Cheers, Jadorff, many thanks for kick-starting this one...appreciate your thoughts.
 

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The lever arms are normally pop marked for position on the splines but can't see anything on yours, personally I think they should be at 90 degrees between the arm and the shift rod, or as close as possible, to get the maximum movement with up and down shifts, then adjust the shift rod length to set the lever height.
EDIT - just looking closer at your pic, there's possibly a mark at its current position so it may be correct were it is.

I've always thought there is excessive play on the gear lever pivots on both my bikes, they are not worn, it just seems to be how they are from the factory for some reason, compared with the rear brake lever/pivots which have zero play.
Unfortunately I couldn't find any top hat bushes thin enough but have taken out the side to side play at least with shim washers, which reduced the play at the lever.
 

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2016 Diablo Red Thruxton 1200 R
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Heres a example of the alignment mark on the the lever arm like CafRacer was describing....FTG
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T595
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The lever arms are normally pop marked for position on the splines but can't see anything on yours, personally I think they should be at 90 degrees between the arm and the shift rod, or as close as possible, to get the maximum movement with up and down shifts, then adjust the shift rod length to set the lever height.
EDIT - just looking closer at your pic, there's possibly a mark at its current position so it may be correct were it is.

I've always thought there is excessive play on the gear lever pivots on both my bikes, they are not worn, it just seems to be how they are from the factory for some reason, compared with the rear brake lever/pivots which have zero play.
Unfortunately I couldn't find any top hat bushes thin enough but have taken out the side to side play at least with shim washers, which reduced the play at the lever.
Many thanks for all that info. and interesting re your edit about the mark on my own gear shaft splines, will take another closer look :)
I’ve read somewhere of others using top hat bushes, but can’t find it now. The factory bush is fitted very tightly in the lever arm, so still wondering how practical/risky it might be to knock it out...it would certainly create a decent space for a bigger bush. Having said that, shims might be the better way to go...still thinking it through at the moment.
Many thanks again, CR...much appreciated!
 

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Many thanks for all that info. and interesting re your edit about the mark on my own gear shaft splines, will take another closer look :)
I’ve read somewhere of others using top hat bushes, but can’t find it now. The factory bush is fitted very tightly in the lever arm, so still wondering how practical/risky it might be to knock it out...it would certainly create a decent space for a bigger bush. Having said that, shims might be the better way to go...still thinking it through at the moment.
Many thanks again, CR...much appreciated!
I was looking at top hat bushes to fit inside the existing one to remove the radial and axial play in one go, but couldn't find anything thin enough as its probably only fractions of a mm even though it feels a lot more at the end of the lever. If I still had access to a lathe I would press out the bush and just machine a new better fitting one.
You can get a selection pack of shim washers and take out as much axial play as you can without interfering with the free movement of the lever, also instead of the top hat bush you could cut a small section of normal shim steel and wrap it around the pivot inside the existing bush.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was looking at top hat bushes to fit inside the existing one to remove the radial and axial play in one go, but couldn't find anything thin enough as its probably only fractions of a mm even though it feels a lot more at the end of the lever. If I still had access to a lathe I would press out the bush and just machine a new better fitting one.
You can get a selection pack of shim washers and take out as much axial play as you can without interfering with the free movement of the lever, also instead of the top hat bush you could cut a small section of normal shim steel and wrap it around the pivot inside the existing bush.
The shim wrap is a great idea, and definitely worth a try if I can’t locate a purpose made one. Brilliant tip, thank you.
 
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