[npicklo]

I know it's an easy fix and I am missing something. I ordered the Zard exhaust and while waiting on it I removed the old TORS and sold them. I have also removed the Y pipe where the sensor mounts. In doing so, I cannot get the bike started now. Even by reinstalling the sensor in the Y pipe. Is it a matter of ressetting something? I cannot help but feel like it has something to do with that sensor. Any help would be appreciated.
<BR>
<BR>Oh yeah, it is a 2006 S3.

[ This message was edited by: npicklo on 2007-01-25 10:28 ]

 

[aptech77]

How did you like the TORS?

 

[speedydave]

What is it doing exactly?

Is the kickstand down? In gear?

 

[Cheapbastard]

the sensor has nothing to do with it not starting at all. As speedydave said, make sure you are not in gear with the kickstand down, and of course, the most obvious, check yer kill switch. :hammer: :-D

 

[Captain_Rat]

And of course it might be the ol' corroded plugs trick.

But you do need to give more info to help with the diagnosis.

Capt.

 

[npicklo]

it is acting as if the kick stand was down. when i turn the key and turn on the kill switch, you can hear the injectors and the cluster lights up, and you press start and i hear nothing. nothing happens. there are no warnings or error messages. I rode it a couple of days before i took off the tors.



and by the way, i did like the TORS, good sound, but I never rode it with stock exhaust, so i cannot give a power comparison.

 

[zooplancton]

possible fuse?
kick stand switch?

 

[Cheapbastard]

check yer clutch safety switch, I believe there have been a few of those go bad. Try wiggling the wire right at the switch and try again. By all of this, I'm assuming the battery is full of juice, right?

 

[npicklo]

yes battery is full. I only have 1180 miles on it, will be 1 year in March. Good souther weather, garage kept. I tested the starter switch and it has power when pushed. Looked at the kick stand switch and looks good, I guess I will check the clutch next and fuse box. I will check the board in about 20 minutes and update on my findings.

 

[npicklo]

checked cable and fuses, looked and felt fine. but now that i have been thinking, the last 2 times i started it, the battery was giving me a little trouble and we did have 1 week below freezing and i did not start it at all then. i have it all the charger now, but all the lights and gauges power on perfectly with out any signs of low power. what is a good way of testing for a dead battery?

 

[Devious2XS]

Check the voltage (volt ohm meter) 1 hour after charging it. Even if it holds a stable charge, you may need to have it tested under load. Many shops that sell batteries have a load tester.

A rough test for load can be done by trying to start the bike (turn it over a couple of times) and then check voltage again.

report back.

 

[npicklo]

forgot i had a tester. i tested and it read 12.45.

 

[Devious2XS]

12.8v is 60%
12.6v is dead.
12.45v is bad.

You might be able to reclaim it by charging for 3-4 days, but more than likely it will only have a slightly longer life - if it works.

 

[npicklo]

thanks, i took it to a local dealer and they basically said the same thing. it is still good, but almost dead. i will charge it tonight and see what it does tomorrow morning.

 

[Captain_Rat]

On 2007-01-25 17:46, Devious2XS wrote:
12.8v is 60%
12.6v is dead.
12.45v is bad.

Now it all makes sense. My wife is always telling me that I'm a very, very, 12.45V boy. Never knew what she meant by that.

Capt.

 

[S32k1]

lol @ capt rat. nuff said

 

[amberale]

Cap'n you're lucky.
Your missus keeps telling me she wants you 12.6v.
:2guns: :-D
AA

 

[Martin_R]

On 2007-01-25 17:21, npicklo wrote:
i have it all the charger now, but all the lights and gauges power on perfectly with out any signs of low power.

You do have the main headlight fuse in and have not taken it or any other fuse out during maintenance? The 1050 will not start with the main beam fuse out.

I have no idea why the hell the starter/starter solenoid power is in the same circuit as the lights, but that's how it is wired. Maybe they did it this way at Hinckley, so that the starter can rob the juice from the lights while turning the engine over?

 

[Devious2XS]

Npicklo,
With a good digital charger with pulse charging (to remove sulfude build up), I can generally charge bike and performance AGM/dry cell batteries to 13.13-13.15v. Checked on a Fluke meter 1/2 hour after charging.

This type of charger can reclaim many batteries - even when they get as low as 12.45v. I let my bike and boat batteries sit for 3-4 days while charging each Spring to recondition them.

If they ever read as low as 12.3x, they generally are no longer viable.

 

[amberale]

Devious, you folk in the US are blessed with a mass of equipment availability that some of us can't access. It just isn't economically viable to sell some of this stuff in a smaller market.
Can you give more details on specs for such a charger so I could try to find one. eg model brands etc.
A PM would be fine if you don't want to advertise.

An example is the bleedable banjo bolt I have been waiting 3 months for[I know, I could have sourced one from US/UK by now].
Guys from the US have said " they're easy to get".
Not here in OZ.