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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
01 sprint rs. installed a phone charger on it last night (dont reprimand me for it...) with an inline toggle switch so that it wouldnt use un-necessary battery. i hooked it up to what appeared to be an auxilary 12v accessory adapter behind the instrument cluster. i ohmed it out and made sure it had ground and 12v. i hooked everything up correctly because it worked AND i rode it last night. however after reinstalling the fairing this morning and going to crank it it would not start... battery has juice to turn on all electronics including fuel injectors. engine wont turn over. i checked to make sure that the switch hadnt been turned on all night, it hadnt. i tried hooking it up to a car (with it off of course) and cranking it. no difference. now im stranded and i have no idea what could be causing my bike to not run. help?
 

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First off, if you haven't done so, check the fuses.

EDIT: just to make sure I understand you, does the engine turn over at all or is it totaly dead when you push the start button?
If dead check the kill switch on the handle bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
already checked. all good. any more advice?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i hooked it up to the yellow connector there under the instrument panel. andy idea what could have happened?
 

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Nightmare

I had a similar experience yesterday after installing a throttle cable on a Monster - which involves full strip of battery/wiring/relays/airbox. In my case the side-stand switch decided to not disengage and of course I thought it had something to do with pulling the electrics part. Nope! Crap happens at the most inconvenient time and unrelated to the task in hand.

So you have battery power. And kill switch not flipped.
Electrics work including relays? Assume yes as you said injectors.
No turning over at all - so it's not low battery as one would expect at least a few clicks but but no engagement of the starter motor.
Rechecked fuses and swap the starter one just for kicks?
Starter relay? is there a separate inline fuse for the starter?

My money would be the starter-button/kill switch circuit, which includes fuse and stater relay. Have you got a wiring diagram showing what they connect to? I have the 1050 not the RS.

There will be a small circuit where the kill switch and starter button will be either fed power from something in line, after their fuse, or straight from the fuse. Do they earth to the main earth via the wiring loom or locally?

Then electric meter out and see how far good 12v current is getting. What does it read across the battery?

Have you put voltage direct to the starter? Not my choice method but it just eliminates the key/starter button/kill/switch/relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Bike Lockout

Ok gents, we have a formal diagnosis. The starter sylanoid is getting power on both sides of the fuse but still will not crank.:mad: However when we jump the sylanoid it cranks:D. Dad thinks its some sort of lockout on the bike.:confused: Help? And just to make this a little more defined of a problem, a riding frinend of mine and i went to install phone chargerso n my our bikes, only because we both navigation on them. When i tapped into power on my bike, i think i tapped into an alarm system data cable underneath the instrument cluster. So Im assuming i have confused the ECU or locked it up.
 

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01 & 02 are quite different - should not confuse the two.

The clutch switch provides the ground return to the starter solenoid - if the clutch switch is not made, then the solenoid will not energize, even if the 'power' side is provided by the start circuit.

Try grounding the black/pink wire to the solenoid to the battery -ve when you press the start button.
If it works, find out why the clutch switch does not activate.

Clue #1: - do the headlights go out when you press the start button?
If they do, then the start circuit is functioning and the problem is with the 'return' side of the solenoid - see above.

If lights don't go out, then you have a problem on the power side of the circuit.

Tell me the status of the lights and we'll take it to the next step.

Clue #2: Does your horn work?
The horn and the clutch switch both receive 'ground' from a a common input on the connector plug to the left bar multi-switch

If horn works, then clutch switch itself should receive the ground on the common pole;

If it does not, pursue why the ground return is not present on the connetcor plug to the the left bar multi-switch
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
ok the horn doesnt work but the lights are dimming when the switch is pressed. when we manually grounded the ground on the solenoid it cranked but the horn still didnt work...
 

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That says you are missing the ground connection at the left bar switch since neither horn nor clutch switch is completing the circuit.

Follow the cable down from the left bar switch until you find the connector plug for it to the main harness. Find the black/yellow wire on the switch side of the connector that should connect to a black wire on the main harness side. The black wire should connect directly to battery -ve. You should be able to measure short between that pin and battery -ve (or engine ground)
You may find you have either a broken wire at the connector plug (on either side) or a bad/oxidized connection.
Stick a wire in that pin in the connector plug and touch it to battery -ve and see if horn/starter works.

Your accessory - did you use the three pin plug that has green/red; black; purple wires? That is the heated grips connector plug and is perfect for use to wire up an accessory. The green/red comes off ignition and the purple off the accessories fuse.
Purple will always be 'hot'; the green/red will switch with ignition. It is best to use the purple wire with a switch as that is a fused element specifically for accessories. Or you could use the ignition wire but be sure to use its own fuse in your accessory line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
got it started. the blk/yl wire pulled apart in the heat shrink at the connector. i was checking the wire at the connectors with the test light and it was showing ground at the larger harness connector but not at the clutch/horn connector... pulled on it and it freely came out.
 

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I just had the same thing happen to my 2000 Sprint. The only difference between my problem and jbmrrs is that I followed DEcosse's instructions but, my horn works, but the bike still won't start.

I grounded the black/pink wire to the battery and it started. What's going on with the Sprint? Is my clutch switch the culpret? I checked all the fuses. I have a Service Manual, but, I must admit I'm not confident with my electrical knowledge. It ain't much.

Will it hurt the bike to run a wire from the battery ground to the black/pink wire terminal so it will run? I know it will probably by pass all the safety issues of starting it so I'd just have to be careful until I figure this out.

Roadduster2
 

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... Is my clutch switch the culpret? ...
Given that your horn works and the starter works when you ground the black/pink wire, then almost certainly your clutch switch is not making.

A quick question - have you installed Pazzo or some other after-market levers?
If you have, look to that first - when adjusted closer to the bar, they often will not make the switch close.
Test by opening up the lever to the widest adjustment and try again.

If that 'fixes' it, you can trim a couple of mm off the pin on the clutch switch, which will allow it to close, even with a shorter lever throw.
(note - the switch closes when the pin is extended out, so by making the pin shorter, it closes with less lever travel)

If you haven't got the Pazzos (or other after-market) unplug the clutch switch from the housing - with the switch out of the housing, it should simulate the clutch lever being pulled in (no need to press the switch) test starter in that condition.
 

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I will try that when I get home from work this pm.

I have stock levers with gen mar risers. Thanks for the reply DEcosse.

Will post again when I try the removing the clutch switch.

Roadduster2
 

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I have removed the clutch switch as directed, and no go.

So, I'm guessing the clutch switch may have shot craps, but, I'll leave it to the experts.

roadduster2:confused:
 

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I have removed the clutch switch as directed, and no go....:
When you say 'removed' did you just unplug the assembly from the lever perch and leave the switch plugged into harness?
Or remove it altogether?
It still needs to be plugged in circuit - just mechanically removed from the perch.

Next test - follow cable down to a small connector plug on the harness; bridge the pins in that connector with a paper clip & try again
 

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Thanks for helping me DEcosse.

I just removed the clutch switch from the lever but left it plugged in.

When you say follow cable down to a small connector plug on the harness to bridge with a paper clip, are you referring to the clutch switch connection or farther down the harness?

I am leaving on a two day trip (work) and won't be able to respond until Friday afternoon, evening.

Thanks again,

roadduster2
 
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