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That so weird you also have the manual for the America. My download just said there was nothing there and to request a paper copy. I was pissed off at the time and just forgot about it
 

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And I just realized those pictures you posted are for the America and Speedmaster. Those are the files for carbureted right? and not EFI? Because I could never find the carbureted ones online only the EFI.
 

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can you reupload the picture it is no longer there. I am rewiring my america super basic
I guess I misunderstood what you meant here - but, probably should have held this whole diatribe on the Wiring Question: '01 Bonneville ICU But, at least we got to chat - you've helped me a lot by just backboarding and tossing stuff out there. I thought I just posted the Manual cover and who I ordered it through but, apparently I didn't hit Post. I think it was through Tradebits.com - they changed the download link to the Helmet Ad - It should cover your bike as the copyright is 2006.
750161
 

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Greetings!
I'm wiring an '01 T100 from scratch, still using the stock ICU and want to make sure it functions properly. This is going on a bare bones bike with no accessories, side stand switch, clutch switch, neutral switch, etc., only the essentials to run.

Out of 9 wires on the ICU, I've identified the ones that lead to the TPS on the carbs, the leads from the pick-up coil and to the ignition coil, so that's 6 wires. The remaining 3 look like they can be grounded, does that sound correct?

I'm using the Haynes manual as a reference… it lists the 9 ICU wires like this:

2- (to #2 on HT coil)
10- (to ground)
8- (to 1 on HT coil)
5- (to #2 leads on pick-up coil & TPS)
6- (to #1 on pick-up coil)
9- (to clutch switch)
1- (to #1 on pick-up coil & #3 on side stand switch)
17- (to #1 on TPS)
4- (to #3 on TPS)

I can try and add a pic of the manual later if needed.
Thanks a ton for your help!
Cheers
Maybe I should try using the Haynes T100 Diagrams as I'm trying to do pretty much the same as you only from a "No Start" and using an *01 Wiring harness - The Haynes Diagram doesn't have the correct colors for mine- though, it is indeed an 01 Bonneville and isn't considered a T100 - they were first reproduced in *02. Maybe the T100 is a bit different and Haynes uses that in place of the Bonneville? I'll check my manuals tomorrow - I just purchased a downloadable Triumph Workshop Manual which has the correct wiring colors anyway and I'm beginning to wonder about the wiring harness I ordered from Pinwall Parts - They say it will work for 2001-2008 but, has more splices in it than a Vanilla Ice Live Album.
 

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yeah I'm glad if I helped at all. I figured out a few things myself with what I am doing cross-referencing got you. I am going to check out that trade bit website. and let me know when your new loom comes in. the cradle frame I ordered last week for my bike is supposed to be here today. and hopefully it fixes the misalignment! if it does I can start on the wiring and if doesn't it doesn't make sense to keep pouring time and money into something that is really bent...
 

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yeah I'm glad if I helped at all. I figured out a few things myself with what I am doing cross-referencing got you. I am going to check out that trade bit website. and let me know when your new loom comes in. the cradle frame I ordered last week for my bike is supposed to be here today. and hopefully it fixes the misalignment! if it does I can start on the wiring and if doesn't it doesn't make sense to keep pouring time and money into something that is really bent...
Yeah- the harness I ordered is the one I've been trying to use- I saw the bike on a video they claimed it came off of - but, I'm not too sure it did- I don't know where they came up with 2001-2008 cause everything I usually order only applies to 2001-2007 - last night I found a hot 12 pin connector on it that isn't found anywhere on my other 2 - *01 Bonnies. Today I'm going to check the alternator. I'm starting to think I'm not supposed to be looking for battery voltage at the ICU - depending if it's an A/C or D/C Alternator the engine may have to be spinning over to get anything to the ICU - therefore, voltage to the coil.
 

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This is from my writeup on an m-Unit install, but can be adapted for your purposes:

CDI PINOUT:
Pin Number Wire colour Function
1 BLK Battery negative
2 RED/GRN power supply from +12V from ignition switch, which also feeds the coil (RED wire)!!! i.e. 1 wire from +12V on ignition switch to + terminal on coil -- splice off this wire to pin 2 on the CDI. As soon as the ignition goes on, the coil goes "hot", when the pick-up coil detects crank is approaching top dead centre, the CDI earths Pin 8 (the other coil terminal BLK/YEL) collapsing the magnetic field in the coil and giving a spark!!!
4 PINK +5V External Sensor Supply - TPS
5 PINK/BLK External Sensor GND (Load Sensor & Timing Pickup) - TPS & pick-up coil
6 BLUE/WHITE Timing Pickup +ve - pick-up coil
8 BLK/YEL Coil 1 Output
9 RED/BLK Igniter Input Enable 1: safety circuit (clutch/sidestand switches) - earth this to delete the clutch/sidestand safety circuit - I did!
10 BLK/WHITE Igniter Input Enable 2 (switch to GND) - Neutral switch (i.e. bike won't start unless she's in neutral)
15 RED Tachometer Output
16 RED/YEL(?) Aux Output (e.g. Fuel Cut-off, Purge) - Not needed on carb models
17 GREEN/WHITE External Load Sensor Input - TPS
18 (?) External Aux Sensor Input (e.g Engine temp, Oil pressure) - not needed on carb models

You need to earth pins 9 & 10, but you can simply re-instate a mind-bogglingly straightforward 'safety circuit' by running the black/earth wire from the starter solenoid by splicing it into the wire from the neutral switch to the idiot light in the dash -- this way the starter motor cannot engage unless the gearbox is in neutral....

Tim

Sent from my MI PAD 4 using Tapatalk
 

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This is from my writeup on an m-Unit install, but can be adapted for your purposes:

CDI PINOUT:
Pin Number Wire colour Function
1 BLK Battery negative
2 RED/GRN power supply from +12V from ignition switch, which also feeds the coil (RED wire)!!! i.e. 1 wire from +12V on ignition switch to + terminal on coil -- splice off this wire to pin 2 on the CDI. As soon as the ignition goes on, the coil goes "hot", when the pick-up coil detects crank is approaching top dead centre, the CDI earths Pin 8 (the other coil terminal BLK/YEL) collapsing the magnetic field in the coil and giving a spark!!!
4 PINK +5V External Sensor Supply - TPS
5 PINK/BLK External Sensor GND (Load Sensor & Timing Pickup) - TPS & pick-up coil
6 BLUE/WHITE Timing Pickup +ve - pick-up coil
8 BLK/YEL Coil 1 Output
9 RED/BLK Igniter Input Enable 1: safety circuit (clutch/sidestand switches) - earth this to delete the clutch/sidestand safety circuit - I did!
10 BLK/WHITE Igniter Input Enable 2 (switch to GND) - Neutral switch (i.e. bike won't start unless she's in neutral)
15 RED Tachometer Output
16 RED/YEL(?) Aux Output (e.g. Fuel Cut-off, Purge) - Not needed on carb models
17 GREEN/WHITE External Load Sensor Input - TPS
18 (?) External Aux Sensor Input (e.g Engine temp, Oil pressure) - not needed on carb models

You need to earth pins 9 & 10, but you can simply re-instate a mind-bogglingly straightforward 'safety circuit' by running the black/earth wire from the starter solenoid by splicing it into the wire from the neutral switch to the idiot light in the dash -- this way the starter motor cannot engage unless the gearbox is in neutral....

Tim

Sent from my MI PAD 4 using Tapatalk
Now that's what I'm talking about ! Thanks a billion Tim. I just came from the shop where I found the pick-up coil gap extremely out of specs unless the feeler gauge is a harbor freight, which, I can't remember. I haven't tried spinning over yet because the lid on the Castrol oil jug was left sitting for who knows how long and I'm straining it before re-fill - Either way - this is awesome I did a Screen Shot immediately and now bookmark and and copy/paste to wordpad - I'll be using this info for certain even if not on this project. Were you rebuilding the Bonnie or just needed a new harness? Bout what do those m-Units run? Thanks again- great info!
 

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...I found the pick-up coil gap extremely out of specs...
The original spec was for a gap of 1mm but was revised to 0.8mm later ... 1mm should work, but 0.8mm is better. FWIW the Triumph pick-up coil is as reliable as a chocolate teapot. I use a Ducati unit (P08) from Electrex World (documented in the "other parts that fit our bikes" sticky)

Were you rebuilding the Bonnie or just needed a new harness? Bout what do those m-Units run?
The ignition switch was corroded beyond repair and I was fitting a 1068cc big bore kit at the time, so a wiring chop made a lot of sense... an m-Unit + m-Lock (RFID keyless ignition) wasn't significantly more expensive than an OEM replacement ignition switch!
The m-unit means you can junk all the relays and fuses (but not the starter solenoid) and simplify and improve the wiring as a whole, has built-in short circuit protection, allows you to run mini switches (wiring through the bars), built in alarm (motion sensor) -- the wiring harness down the spine of the frame is now thinner than my index finger, and in all I ended scrapping a kilo of unnecessary electrcal gubbins.

Tim
 

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Sounds like a plan- and the wires you posted ( red and green ) hot to and from ignition were just example colors, correct? I'm new to navigating the site here - how do I find the original post you mentioned? (Sorry, I thought I remembered you saying the layout was from a writing/post you had on the site-My bad)
 

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RED/GRN was the colour of the original wire coming out of pin 2 on the CDI plug with OEM wiring. You could use RED wires for unswitched power (i.e. +12V hard-wired to battery positive) and e.g. RED/GRN for switched power (+12V from the ignition switch)... Hell, I have mates who wire their choppers using nothing but red wires -- but that's just asking for trouble IMHO...

My original writeup is here:


And I (amongst others) helped out @extractable in his build (which was far more detailed):


Tim
 

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@BonnieBlack this one is actually really good. I assume the top left is the igniter? thats the part that starts confusing me. everything works on my bike its just that I dont completely understand how to tell which wire is which on the igniter. honestly after sitting down and reading a couple of forums and thinking about it I'm just kind of figuring out what the igniter exactly does. the picture would be better if it was color coded. edit: I just found the pin out of the igniter in my haynes manual

Sorry man, I found the photo but don't have any good insight for you. I do have the 2012 manual as pdf with color schematics. PM coming.
 

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sorry I have been AWOL @sonsofthunder. I have been fixing my wiring also. I think I have mine figured out! I'm glad you've started to figure yours out too! I'd love to hear it running. That bike is really cool you should post a video on youtube and share it in this feed. I'm still here I just aggravated with mine and was determined to figure it out on my own and it seems I did.
 

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I spent most of yesterday back tracing wires and checking continuity just to see how the bike is wired and in doing so I have minimal wiring now I took so much stuff out. it’s crazy how little wiring these bikes actually need compared to the fuel injected ones
750367
that is mine on a permanent diet and I can still take some more out. keep updated on yours

@H3CT1C your pin out description was great. i looked at it a couple of times. I was going to get a motogadget blue but I actually don’t think I need it now as the wiring is so simple with all the unnecessary stuff removed. I would like to get rid of this fuse box but I feel like I would have to get a different ignition switch because it switches a couple of different circuits in the fuse box
 

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@H3CT1C I seem to have cut out the wire that was the kill switch. I know that it is a normally closed switch but looking at my harness I dont see what the switch broke or where it went. Do you know what wire to break the circuit? I think I could just use the green wire with red tracer the one that runs the coils.

looking at the haynes manual it doesn't make a lot of sense to me because it runs though the dummy alarm connector but doesn't say where the wires loop on the dummy connector.
750810
 

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@H3CT1C I seem to have cut out the wire that was the kill switch. I know that it is a normally closed switch but looking at my harness I dont see what the switch broke or where it went. Do you know what wire to break the circuit? I think I could just use the green wire with red tracer the one that runs the coils.

looking at the haynes manual it doesn't make a lot of sense to me because it runs though the dummy alarm connector but doesn't say where the wires loop on the dummy connector. View attachment 750810
Doesn't it actually go to the ignition switch, Marshall? I mean, not to state the obvious and I don't know why the red wire would be grounded in the 12 pin connector up there - but, just trying to figure it out with you as I'm still trying to learn more about my situation at the same time.
 
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