That so weird you also have the manual for the America. My download just said there was nothing there and to request a paper copy. I was pissed off at the time and just forgot about it
I guess I misunderstood what you meant here - but, probably should have held this whole diatribe on the Wiring Question: '01 Bonneville ICU But, at least we got to chat - you've helped me a lot by just backboarding and tossing stuff out there. I thought I just posted the Manual cover and who I ordered it through but, apparently I didn't hit Post. I think it was through Tradebits.com - they changed the download link to the Helmet Ad - It should cover your bike as the copyright is 2006.can you reupload the picture it is no longer there. I am rewiring my america super basic
Maybe I should try using the Haynes T100 Diagrams as I'm trying to do pretty much the same as you only from a "No Start" and using an *01 Wiring harness - The Haynes Diagram doesn't have the correct colors for mine- though, it is indeed an 01 Bonneville and isn't considered a T100 - they were first reproduced in *02. Maybe the T100 is a bit different and Haynes uses that in place of the Bonneville? I'll check my manuals tomorrow - I just purchased a downloadable Triumph Workshop Manual which has the correct wiring colors anyway and I'm beginning to wonder about the wiring harness I ordered from Pinwall Parts - They say it will work for 2001-2008 but, has more splices in it than a Vanilla Ice Live Album.Greetings!
I'm wiring an '01 T100 from scratch, still using the stock ICU and want to make sure it functions properly. This is going on a bare bones bike with no accessories, side stand switch, clutch switch, neutral switch, etc., only the essentials to run.
Out of 9 wires on the ICU, I've identified the ones that lead to the TPS on the carbs, the leads from the pick-up coil and to the ignition coil, so that's 6 wires. The remaining 3 look like they can be grounded, does that sound correct?
I'm using the Haynes manual as a reference… it lists the 9 ICU wires like this:
2- (to #2 on HT coil)
10- (to ground)
8- (to 1 on HT coil)
5- (to #2 leads on pick-up coil & TPS)
6- (to #1 on pick-up coil)
9- (to clutch switch)
1- (to #1 on pick-up coil & #3 on side stand switch)
17- (to #1 on TPS)
4- (to #3 on TPS)
I can try and add a pic of the manual later if needed.
Thanks a ton for your help!
Yeah- the harness I ordered is the one I've been trying to use- I saw the bike on a video they claimed it came off of - but, I'm not too sure it did- I don't know where they came up with 2001-2008 cause everything I usually order only applies to 2001-2007 - last night I found a hot 12 pin connector on it that isn't found anywhere on my other 2 - *01 Bonnies. Today I'm going to check the alternator. I'm starting to think I'm not supposed to be looking for battery voltage at the ICU - depending if it's an A/C or D/C Alternator the engine may have to be spinning over to get anything to the ICU - therefore, voltage to the coil.yeah I'm glad if I helped at all. I figured out a few things myself with what I am doing cross-referencing got you. I am going to check out that trade bit website. and let me know when your new loom comes in. the cradle frame I ordered last week for my bike is supposed to be here today. and hopefully it fixes the misalignment! if it does I can start on the wiring and if doesn't it doesn't make sense to keep pouring time and money into something that is really bent...
Now that's what I'm talking about ! Thanks a billion Tim. I just came from the shop where I found the pick-up coil gap extremely out of specs unless the feeler gauge is a harbor freight, which, I can't remember. I haven't tried spinning over yet because the lid on the Castrol oil jug was left sitting for who knows how long and I'm straining it before re-fill - Either way - this is awesome I did a Screen Shot immediately and now bookmark and and copy/paste to wordpad - I'll be using this info for certain even if not on this project. Were you rebuilding the Bonnie or just needed a new harness? Bout what do those m-Units run? Thanks again- great info!This is from my writeup on an m-Unit install, but can be adapted for your purposes:
Pin Number Wire colour Function
1 BLK Battery negative
2 RED/GRN power supply from +12V from ignition switch, which also feeds the coil (RED wire)!!! i.e. 1 wire from +12V on ignition switch to + terminal on coil -- splice off this wire to pin 2 on the CDI. As soon as the ignition goes on, the coil goes "hot", when the pick-up coil detects crank is approaching top dead centre, the CDI earths Pin 8 (the other coil terminal BLK/YEL) collapsing the magnetic field in the coil and giving a spark!!!
4 PINK +5V External Sensor Supply - TPS
5 PINK/BLK External Sensor GND (Load Sensor & Timing Pickup) - TPS & pick-up coil
6 BLUE/WHITE Timing Pickup +ve - pick-up coil
8 BLK/YEL Coil 1 Output
9 RED/BLK Igniter Input Enable 1: safety circuit (clutch/sidestand switches) - earth this to delete the clutch/sidestand safety circuit - I did!
10 BLK/WHITE Igniter Input Enable 2 (switch to GND) - Neutral switch (i.e. bike won't start unless she's in neutral)
15 RED Tachometer Output
16 RED/YEL(?) Aux Output (e.g. Fuel Cut-off, Purge) - Not needed on carb models
17 GREEN/WHITE External Load Sensor Input - TPS
18 (?) External Aux Sensor Input (e.g Engine temp, Oil pressure) - not needed on carb models
You need to earth pins 9 & 10, but you can simply re-instate a mind-bogglingly straightforward 'safety circuit' by running the black/earth wire from the starter solenoid by splicing it into the wire from the neutral switch to the idiot light in the dash -- this way the starter motor cannot engage unless the gearbox is in neutral....
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The original spec was for a gap of 1mm but was revised to 0.8mm later ... 1mm should work, but 0.8mm is better. FWIW the Triumph pick-up coil is as reliable as a chocolate teapot. I use a Ducati unit (P08) from Electrex World (documented in the "other parts that fit our bikes" sticky)...I found the pick-up coil gap extremely out of specs...
The ignition switch was corroded beyond repair and I was fitting a 1068cc big bore kit at the time, so a wiring chop made a lot of sense... an m-Unit + m-Lock (RFID keyless ignition) wasn't significantly more expensive than an OEM replacement ignition switch!Were you rebuilding the Bonnie or just needed a new harness? Bout what do those m-Units run?
@BonnieBlack this one is actually really good. I assume the top left is the igniter? thats the part that starts confusing me. everything works on my bike its just that I dont completely understand how to tell which wire is which on the igniter. honestly after sitting down and reading a couple of forums and thinking about it I'm just kind of figuring out what the igniter exactly does. the picture would be better if it was color coded. edit: I just found the pin out of the igniter in my haynes manual
Doesn't it actually go to the ignition switch, Marshall? I mean, not to state the obvious and I don't know why the red wire would be grounded in the 12 pin connector up there - but, just trying to figure it out with you as I'm still trying to learn more about my situation at the same time.@H3CT1C I seem to have cut out the wire that was the kill switch. I know that it is a normally closed switch but looking at my harness I dont see what the switch broke or where it went. Do you know what wire to break the circuit? I think I could just use the green wire with red tracer the one that runs the coils.
looking at the haynes manual it doesn't make a lot of sense to me because it runs though the dummy alarm connector but doesn't say where the wires loop on the dummy connector. View attachment 750810