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Discussion Starter #1
I have been reading lately on some other forums where they change the oil in their bikes for the winter using a cheap oil along with a new filter and then in the spring drain that oil and put in what they run for the summer. They say that old oil in the bikes over winter or extended non-use periods cause the oil to become acidic.

I was told by my Triumph dealer to only use Mobile 1 oil with 4T additive in my Sprint. Would it be safe to put regular cheap oil in it for the winter while it's just sitting, then replace it in the spring with Mobile 1? Then again, is it necessary to use Mobile 1?

I don't know much about it and figured I'd get lots of advice here. What do you guys typically do for winter maintenance (for those of you who are in climates where snow prevents riding pleasure).

We measured the snow outside today at work, and there is 9" on the picnic table. Guess we won't be having a bbq today! :rolleyes:

Thanks for your help!
 

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Personally, I would do a oil change with whatever brand you would regularly use for everyday riding. As long as the miles after said oil change (before putting away for winter) are very low, it will be fine to break out & ride when the weather breaks.
 

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I agree with Johnny. The thing with used motor oil is that with the combustion properties that get placed in the oil as miles build..your oil becomes acidic....now in order to etch bearing surfaces with used oil will take time and have a substantial amount of miles on the oil. Storing it for 4-5 months should not be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks........but

What kind of oil do you guys use in your Sprints? Triumph shop told me to only run Mobile 1 with 4T additive. Is it necessary? I don't have a clue or a problem with it, just figuring you would know.
 

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What kind of oil do you guys use in your Sprints? Triumph shop told me to only run Mobile 1 with 4T additive. Is it necessary? I don't have a clue or a problem with it, just figuring you would know.
Even tho its a bit pricey, I have used the Mobil-1 4T since engine-break in. Now at 25,000 miles, no prob's. I thought about switching to a lesser expensive brand, but bad experiences in the past with my bikes (my non-triumph bikes) encouraged me to spend the little bit more and stay with the Mobil 4T. Although, there are other members that switched and have reported no faults.

Jus my .02cents (-:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good enough for me

My bike currently has about 32k miles on it and I've only had it since July 22, '08 and put 5k of those miles on myself since I got it. If you say Mobile 1 4T the best for my baby, then that's what I'll use.

Thanks for the info!

Snow is up to 10.5" here in Ebensburg, PA. I live in Altoona, PA (25 miles away) and there isn't any snow there...gotta love altitude)
 

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mydownsgirl......Don't limit your choice of oil to Mobil 1 4T just because someone says that is what they use. You have two options. Do a search and read the never ending discourses re oil in this site, or any MC site for that matter. Or go with the manufacturer's recommendation which in our case is any semi or fully synthetic 10W/40 or 10W/50 motorcycle oil which meets specification API SH 9or higher) and JASO MA.

BTW, the dealers that push the Mobil 1 do so because that is old stock that they have on hand, or they can't break old habits. The marketing agreement between Triumph and Mobil has not been in effect for some time now.

My preference in oil is Motul 300V 4T. I base that choice on xmission gear change smoothness.

As for oil contamination over a winter storage period, I am already on record recommending the same procedure you mention in your original post. Others have have pooh poohed that opinion, but I know I am correct. :D
 

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OnD is right on, as usual.

My $.02 is:

Put some StaBil gas additive in the gas tank, then fill with Plus or Premium to the top.

Put the bike up on its centerstand.

Change the oil and filter and run the bike until the engine is warm (the Temp gauge comes off the bottom of the dial).

Hook up your battery tender/ctek/whatever

Throw a clean blanket or sheet over it, and say Good Night.

My oil choice is Mobil 1 15W-50 from Wal-Mart. You get a 5 quart jug for around $20. I use a Purolator PureOne filter, which I get at one of the Auto supply places.

Mind you, I don't do this to my bike, since I ride all year. I do it to the lawnmower, though. Minus the battery thing.

Good luck, and stay warm!
 

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After a thorough wash and wax, I did the winter oil change, Mobil One fully synthetic (SILVER CAP), no friction modifiers, thanks, $26.00, and a Fram Tough One oil filter (5.00) from Walmart to put the bike in hibernation for the New England winter. About half the cost of my normal Triumph 4T and KN 204 oil filter. I'll run it for a few weeks in the spring as it is and change it out then. I also do the Stabil bit and top off the tank, cover her and bid her well.

denoose
 

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BTW, the dealers that push the Mobil 1 do so because that is old stock that they have on hand, or they can't break old habits. The marketing agreement between Triumph and Mobil has not been in effect for some time now.

My preference in oil is Motul 300V 4T. I base that choice on xmission gear change smoothness.

As for oil contamination over a winter storage period, I am already on record recommending the same procedure you mention in your original post. Others have have pooh poohed that opinion, but I know I am correct. :D
Exactly. I was simply expressing what I use. I stick with Mobil4T because it works for me, and I order allll my triumph stuff from Great Bay Triumph. I get good prices, and they ship it all right to my shop...no hassels. They have all my info on record, & they are very knowledgable. I dont have to drive around looking for my supplies.

As far as winterization tho....never have had to do it in my life. I ride all year long. If it aint rainin, snowin, hailing or sky is falling...I ride. Ive been this way since I was old enuff to obtain a license. My bikes rarely sit for more than a week or two, cold or warm out. BUT, lets say I did have the need to winterize, I would drain & refill with the same brand, same weight oil. Thats just me.
 

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I would only use oil engineered for motorcycles I would not suggest using regular Mobil 1 in the Sprint which shares it's engine oil with the it's transmission unlike my BMW that doesn't. I usually ride year round so it's not a problem but the way things are going this year who knows. If I was you I would just change it now with your favorite synthetic oil and in the spring just go out and ride it.
 

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I would only use oil engineered for motorcycles I would not suggest using regular Mobil 1 in the Sprint which shares it's engine oil with the it's transmission unlike my BMW that doesn't. I usually ride year round so it's not a problem but the way things are going this year who knows. If I was you I would just change it now with your favorite synthetic oil and in the spring just go out and ride it.
You do not have to use full synth either. And if this turns into another kingsize ginormous thread about OIL I will swoon!:swoon:

DaveM:cool:
 

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I would only use oil engineered for motorcycles I would not suggest using regular Mobil 1 in the Sprint which shares it's engine oil with the it's transmission unlike my BMW that doesn't. I usually ride year round so it's not a problem but the way things are going this year who knows. If I was you I would just change it now with your favorite synthetic oil and in the spring just go out and ride it.
You need to do some reading on Mobil 1 15W50 & 15W50EP car oil. It has no friction modifiers, and 1200 ppm of phosphorus. I'm not talking about any of the other weights; just the 15W50. The Mobil 1 motorcycle oils have 1600 ppm of phosphorus, which is even better, but the 1200 ppm phosphorus level compares favorably to many other motorcycle-specific oils. I maintain 3 bikes and go back & forth between the 4T and the 15W50 car oil depending on what's available.
 

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You need to do some reading on Mobil 1 15W50 & 15W50EP car oil. It has no friction modifiers, and 1200 ppm of phosphorus. I'm not talking about any of the other weights; just the 15W50. The Mobil 1 motorcycle oils have 1600 ppm of phosphorus, which is even better, but the 1200 ppm phosphorus level compares favorably to many other motorcycle-specific oils. I maintain 3 bikes and go back & forth between the 4T and the 15W50 car oil depending on what's available.
Can you provide me the link to that as I was on the Mobil web site and I couldn't find anything that would verify that. I have emailed them in the hopes that I'll get an official opinion from Mobil. On one of the V Strom forums someone did the same to Shell as many are using Shell Rotella in their bikes, the response from Shell was it was OK. I'm all for saving a few bucks and Mobil 1 15w-50 is easy to find and I've been using it in my LT. I'll post my findings when they reply.
 

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http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

http://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=9&page=1

nplenzick, no excuse not being able to find these references.

You would think there was enough oil information already in the Sprint forum to satisfy all but the most unreasonable.

BTW, we have learned that Miz. Laura knows her stuff.
I did a search on this forum and when I type in "oil" nothing comes up.
In the Mobil link you provided the only oil that is recommended for MC use is V Twin or the MX4T. Nothing else.I don't know if Mobil is trying to get the JASO MA rating for their other oils or not. In the Shell forum link you provided a member says that Shell is in the process of of seeking that rating for their Rotella T. How true that is anyone's guess but as I pointed out in an earlier post many are using it in their bikes with Shells approval. Still if you had a warranty claim would the factory except that? I would suggest that those who have bikes that are under warranty like the person who started this thread you may want to stick to MC approved oil.
Oh one more thing, thanks for the warm welcome:rolleyes:
 

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The search function is particular in that it will not search for words that are only three letters long. You have to be persistent and try different length words or combination. I doubt anyone would expect that a MC forum would not have oil threads in it.

The Mobil link I provided was in response to your statement that you could not locate the info that Laura had referred to. She stated the phosphorus content for the Mobil 1 15W50 car oil. She, and I by extension, never said that it was recommended for MCs. But, a reasonable person could determine that it meets the criteria.

I provided the Shell forum link because you mentioned Rotella being used by other riders. I only thought it would be convenient for you to read the info in that forum.

As for denial of warranty claims due to oil, the manufacturer would have to prove that the oil was the sole cause.

Having said this, I myself stick to the mfgr's recommendations because I feel that this helps my bike shift smoother. But this is not to say that there is anything wrong with someone doing a bit of oil research and selecting an alternative based on the composition and characteristics of any motor oil. Which brings us back to the suggestion that you need to do more reading.

Sorry you mistook my attempt to provide you with a couple of information sources as a "warm welcome". I see that you were never actually welcomed to this forum. That might have something to do with the fact that you never introduced yourself, or I overlooked it.

So, welcome to the forum. This is a gathering of diverse opinions centered on the Sprint. We help each other. We argue and make fun of each other. We entertain each other. Sometimes feelings get hurt, but all in all, it is a great forum. We are moderated by two rascals that have managed to escape the law, so far. Part of the obligatory welcome is a reminder for new members to read the 'New Members Please Read' sticky at the top of the page, in case you have not already.
 

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I thought the photo I put up with "you and your sickle" was introducing myself.
Thanks for clearing up search, it's the first time I ever experienced a search like that and I didn't notice anything about it in the stickys that I read but maybe I missed it. Usually if you put something like "oil" in a search you get a million responses and then you narrow it down, but now that I know it does make sense.
I like the links you provided, I didn't find the chart you provided on the Mobil website.
So now that I'm welcomed and I have that warm and fuzzy feeling:D, let me just ask one more question.
Is it just the additional amount of phosphorus that makes an oil a MC approved oil or are there other additives that are required?
Inquiring minds want to know.
 

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Since the JASO spec is proprietary, I can not copy it to this site, but I can answer specific questions, or you may purchase a copy. The main thrust of the document is that the API specs SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM comprise the relevant requirements, with the JASO spec addressing clutch slippage. In other words, no API cert means no JASO cert. API + energy conserving means no JASO cert. Other requirements are also listed, but the clutch slippage issue was the impetus for the specification.

The JASO slippage indices for dynamic friction (friction between clutch parts moving in relation to each other), static friction (no relative movement), and stop time are calculated and compared to those of 2 referrence oils, one high friction (A) and one lower friction (B). Thus you have MA and MB.
 
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