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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone run a conventional chain master link on their 05-06 Sprint? I like to be able to take the chain on and off, and grinding off the pins and pressing out the side plates is a big PITA every time I want to do it.

I took a quick look and the chain appears endless, so I was hoping someone else has done this and can recommend exactly the right master link and report on results.

Personally, I can see no reason to run an endless chain on a moderately powered bike, especially one with a chain the likes of the ST. *****, that's a big chain.

Any and all insight, advice, opinon, bull*****, insults, and hate mail is welcome. Thanks.
 

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Because it is cheaper, faster, stronger and quicker to do a in a factory setting.

Endless chains are OEM on alot of bikes. Installing as a step of a ground up bike build is no problem..

With the proper tools almost the same type of chain can be fitted to it as a replacement. The "Master link" is really no different than the other apart from the riveted style pins. The pins on the rest of the link are effectively rivets as well just with fancier production equipment for a neater look.

Triumph Chain and sprocket tech
 

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I think it is true to say that endless riveted chains are fitted to higher powered machines as a safety item. Split link chains have the potential to fail under extreme loads. The resultant potential for serous injury and engine damage from a snapped chain is unthinkable. I would consider it unadvisable to fit one, a riveted chain fitted by a competent person using the correct tools has to be a must. The question arises why, when the chain is a seal "o" ring unit, is it necessary to remove it before the end of its servicable life any way? :???:
 

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Why would you need to remove the chain on a Sprint, unless to replace it? The wheel comes off without disturbing the chainwheel and carrier. It's not that hard to keep lubed, so you shouldn't need to remove it periodicly to clean it. I'm confused :???:
 

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Call me old school, but I have yet to see where a clip master link is any more prone to breakage than a riveted master link. The actual load is taken by the side plates and the pins. The clip or a peened over pin head (which would need to be softer than the other pins) only keeps the side plate in position. The only time a clip master link was ever a problem was when some DOLT couldn't figure out that it wasn't fully seated or didn't know which direction the chain was running! That guy should do NO maintenance on anything anyway! And now they expect this same idiot to properly rivet a precision link assembly, please! Even with a custom press from that chain manufacturer THAT guy is going to Fu*k it up!IMHO :evil:

Because it is cheaper, faster, stronger and quicker to do a in a factory setting.

Endless chains are OEM on allot of bikes. Installing as a step of a ground up bike build is no problem..
Those are the only statements that I believe are the real reason they are so widely used today. It's just like the oil thing, put out some dis-information that it will ruin your clutch, or in this case possibly kill you to get the public to buy what you are trying to sell them instead of what works for less money. It's all about making that extra few bucks. Take a look at any GP bike........see ANY endless chains there? Think they put out any more power than your 1050?

:asb: I'll get me coat.

[ This message was edited by: Stlakid on 2006-11-02 13:42 ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Take a look at any GP bike........see ANY endless chains there? Think they put out any more power than your 1050?
Well that was my point originally, however I do know that removeable masters are less secure than the permanent ones with staked rivets.

I know lots of racers who run chains at the track with removeable master links. When I was tuning TZ250's, I must admit that I always used permanent masters with staked rivets. But that was because I felt responsible for the rider's safety, and they did give me more confidence. Also. we only ran those chains (Regina GP Non O-Ring) 2 weekends, then replaced them. Never had a chain problem in 4 full years of racing.

Anyway, I guess it's a personal choice. I haven't looked closely but MNSprint ST suggested the chain can be removed on SSSA bikes without pressing out a link, if I understood his post correctly. Sounds like a good compromise.
 

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Yes it is possible.



Even possible on std swing arms. Look at belt driven bikes. No choice there.


With the SSA its pretty easy.

If you can get the sprocket off w/o beaking the chain (18t swappers write up) you can also get the chain off the rear sprocket.

The big pivot pin that goes thru the frame will need to be pushed about 1/4 of the way out. That is the only extra work. no extra steps at the front.
 

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MNSprint,
Are you saying you are taking the endless chain off totally??? Yes, you can absolutely remove it from the back sprocket, that takes care of the detailed cleaning mentioned in a previous post, but either I'm not following you or something because to to get it off the entire bike the swing are HAS to come out or the chain has to be cut. Although I have yet to do it, the service manual uses special tools to remove the swing arm and I ain't gonna do that unless I absolutely have to.

I'm with STLAkid on that master link thing. Especially with a SSSA which is supposed to be slam dunk chain alignment, there should be just about zero side load on the chain. All those dimpled rivits or the clip have to do is keep the side plate from coming off which in theory should not require all that much material strength. I have seen stuff over the years about the clip reducing the strength of the chain, but even the rivit types reduce it. Who knows were the data came from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't think the point is that the chain is weaker overall, but that any torsional or lateral load on the link could potentially spit the retaining clip. It's never happened to me, but I know plenty of people who have had it happen.

So, again, personal choice and confidence in the components. I think it would work either way, but there is definitely more security in a permanent fixing.
 

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but I know plenty of people who have had it happen.
Those would be the ones that can't tell which way the chain is running or can't tell if the clip is seated! Everyone I ever used, especially the later ones (past 10-15 years) the are a real Bit*h to get on or off, but there isn't much doubt if it's right......at least to me anyway. Personally, I've never had a single master link fail, ever! Dirt, street, or on the 20' table rotator we built for the movie Apollo 13.
 
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