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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Am about to do my valve clearances and in the Haynes manual it says to take out the bolts in a certain way.

When they refer to the left hand cylinder, is that on the left looking from the front or looking from the back?

I think it is looking from the front, am i right?

FrankW
 

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It's looking from the way you sit on the bike (when you're riding it :D).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was going from the diagram in the Haynes manual. They tell you to start loosening the bolts from above the cylinder with the closed valves. Which is the right cylinder as you sit on the bike. Yet in their diagram it shows the number 1 above the cylinder with the open valves. Which is the one on the left as you sit on it.
 

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Which bolts are you referring to - the ones that hold the camshafts in or the 4 bolts for the cam cover?
 

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The Triumph manual says to release pressure on the camshaft caps slowly, a half turn at a time over all 6 caps, but does not give a sequence. It gives a sequence to tighten them which has you tightening the outer caps then the middle of the shaft a little at a time, exhaust right, left, middle, intake right, left and middle (as you sit on the bike) a little at a time to 10Nm.
The cams are under pressure from the valve springs. That's why you shouldn't just remove any one cap all the way.
Remember that the caps have to be returned exactly like they were taken off and oriented the same way. Pin the two gears together, and make sure you don't mix up intake and exhaust cams. And a tip. Be careful removing or reinstalling the banjo bolts for the oil feed line. They snap off easily either on removal or torquing.
 

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And a tip. Be careful removing or reinstalling the banjo bolts for the oil feed line. They snap off easily either on removal or torquing.
+1 on what rmak says!!

Learnt (by us both) from bitter experience!!
Even with a torque wrench this can easily happen!......



V.
 

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Just line the cam gear and chain gear marks up then crack the bolts loose alittle at a time .Do the rev. on they way you tighten them.Just alittle at a time you will be fine .before you pull cam caps stop up cam chain hole so nothing can fall in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the help guys. When I was reading the Haynes manual I was getting a little confused. On the disassembly it says to start loosening the cap bolts on the righthand cylinder valves, but in the diagram it has the number 1 over the left hand cylinder valves. In the assembly section it says to start at the cap on the left hand cylinder valve, but they have the number 1 over the right hand cylinder valves.
I will follow your instructions when I take them out tomorrow. I have to go shopping today for a small torque wrench.
Any recommendations on a good quality brand?

FrankW
 

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Be careful removing or reinstalling the banjo bolts for the oil feed line. They snap off easily either on removal or torquing.
It is not necessary to remove those oil feed line banjo bolts, just loosen all the caps as the book says and then ease up the caps little by little. The caps with the oil feed line attached can be lifted out together complete with the feed line, just make sure the o-ring comes out of the head with the feed line. It may not be how the manuals say to do it, but it does stop you messing with a possible point of failure.

As has been said and I reiterate, block the cam chain gap and the front chrome breather tube hole with rags as each cap has two dowels that can fall out of the caps if you're not careful.
 

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As has been said and I reiterate, block the cam chain gap and the front chrome breather tube hole with rags as each cap has two dowels that can fall out of the caps if you're not careful.

Excellent point, Mike. Also put rags in spark plug holes if you have removed them to turn the engine over easier. Don't want anything falling in there either.
 
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