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Since I've been riding my restored '70 Tiger I have about a half dozen very minor paint chips. Not a big deal and I definately wouldn't consider riding it less to avoid having this kind of stuff happen. But I would like to touch up the paint chips if possible. I had a tiny stratch on the bottom of my side cover not in a noticeable spot so tried touching up with Diamond Hard Acrylic Enamel (rust inhibiting) and using a very fine paint brush. I could definately see the paint brush marks when I was done. In another spot on the side cover there were a few very tiny chips (pin head size) which I gave very gentle dabs of paint to, and the result was a lot better, no paint brush marks at all, much harder to notice. But on my gas tank and fenders I have a few very small chips, I figured I could get a small container of touch up paint from Don Hutchinson in correct Spring Gold, the only question is do I dab at the chip with a paint brush or is there another more sophisticated way (that a handy person could do without any special tools) to touch up where the result is better/less noticeable? Thanks a lot because I intend to ride my bike like crazy, and I know I will be getting some more wee chips in her paint, not a big deal but I'd like to know how to fix them.
 

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To fix the chips put a drop with a toothpick or similar and let dry. Then repeat until the paint is higher than the surface. You can then block sand the spot carefully with 600 paper until level and then go to finer papers up to 1500. Then polish with a compound to the desired finish.
Another trick to level is to use a straight razor blade with a wrap of masking tape on each end leaving the center bare. Then gently knock down the built up drop until level with the rest of the surface...sand. polish.
 

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I've gently dabbed a little paint in the chip, keeping the level lower than the actual painted surface, then, when it's dry I use a bit of clear lacquer such as nail polish on top of it and polish it down to blend in with the rest. I believe the factory used a clear coat of lacquer back then, and the clear is much more forgiving. Needless to say, practice a bit until you're comfortable with it, and make sure your paint doesn't react with the clear coat. And, as "She Who Must Be Obeyed" once said to me: "Are you going to ride it, or put the world's largest cake plate cover over it and just look at it?" They were made to be ridden; I know how you feel as mine is original with just another clear coat done on the tank some years back.

Don't let it become an obsession, like I did for a while: Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK, thanks for the tips. When I'm sanding I'm gonna assume use a very small piece of sandpaper so as not to scratch the paint surrounding the chipped spot (maybe glue a piece of sand paper to a pencil eraser). I'm also gonna wait 'til spring b/c I think the garage is too cold now for the paint to dry. Do you guys recommend wet sanding or dry sanding. I'm gonna assume I'd also sand the clear coat following the same procedure. I know the perfect spot on the bike to practice: I have a couple chips on the paint on the fender under the seat. Cheers .. Jason
 

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wet sand. Use a sanding block. Level the spot with 600. Once you are at a fine grade (1000 then 1200 then 1500 and 2000 if you want) you'll be sanding a bigger area.
But sand lightly and only as much as required to eliminate the previous sandpapers scratches...be careful not to sand more than needed so you don't sand through the clear.
I like Farecla polishing compound. http://www.farecla.com/ You use it with water and their G mop. Start with G3 compound. wash surface and Gmop well and then finish with G10
 

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today went to pump petrol and notice the chip on my gas tank. need advise on my T100, the chip part on the entire ring/lips, is it part of the tank or one can remove that section.

am no DIY guy, hence please recommend me to repair the chip from the bike itself, what is the best stuff to block those falling chips from falling inside the tank should i start with sand paper (start with 600 grid?) , after sanding i applied Hard Acrylic Enamel ? i might use a vacumm cleaner while sanding it as cant figure out how to block the fuel hole while i DIY.

Thanks in advance for any advise to start my work tmw, since its a weekend.
 

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Do you mean using a vacuum to suck out the gas fumes, don't do that. most vacuum motors will give out Sparks, which might just ignite your air fuel mixture.....
 

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the idea of using vacumm cleaner is while i work to peel of the whatever black paint, instead of chips falling into the fuel tank, it wud be immediately suck into vacumm cleaner, hence minimizing chances of chip paint falling into the tank. unless of course if there are ideas on how to block the hole completely while i work on peeling and sanding the rim/lips area.
 

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Hi,

what is the best stuff to block those falling chips from falling inside the tank
Damp cloth pushed into the tank before you start, pull it out when you've finished with chips and dust stuck to it?

Btw, while @rambo will hopefully chip in, ;) imho your picture appears to show paint being lifted by fuel vapour, not "chipped"?

need advise on my T100,
While it's nice to see you here, fraid you're in the wrong section for your bike - "T100" here is a 500 cc. twin made between 1938 and 1974 ... :)

Hope this helps.

Regards,
 

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Since your bike is restored it is unlikely it will have a single layer paint finish, more likely a clear on base. Your touch up paint will be base coat that will not only dry to a matte finish but will be a different colour until it is clear coated. Therefore I would approach it a little different.

Before you start wet sand the surrounding area with 1000 grit, drop a little base coat into the chip with a toothpick, once dry wet sand the surrounding area to remove any excess from the surrounding area. Again I would use 1000 grit on the clear, but thats just me. Then use a 2K clear coat touch up pen, mix a little base coat into the clear and use this to slowly fill the rest of the chip slightly higher than the surrounding area. Block back with 1000 grit until you have a uniform finish when dried, then block with 1500 then 2000 before buffing.

Rod
 
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