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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I read what Haynes suggested, and couldn't find anything via searching here. Not looking to start a debate or anything, just wanted to get some ideas/opinions.

Sorry if this is a relapse of a long dead thread. Couldn't find one.
 

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oil

I use Mobil 1 T4 racing full syn. It's cost more but my 95 tbird seems to run smoother since I started using it.
 

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Amsoil here...
 

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77,000+ km, and I use Motul Esther synthetic 15/40. It comes just as clean as when I put it in. Oil and filter every 5000km.
Do not use automotive oils as they do not have the high pressure additives that the gearbox needs and they have friction modifiers which will ruin your clutches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
O My God.... Starting an OIL thread.

Run as fast as you can and Hide!!
Please forgive me, but also keep in mind this is my very first bike, very first oil change, and I don't have any triumph friends to talk to in person. I'm also young, and love the internet. If I post here, I'm bound to get some serious knowledge that I wouldn't get talking to one guy at the dealership garage. If I have to take some heckling along with that, I'm cool with it.
 

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Please forgive me, but also keep in mind this is my very first bike, very first oil change, and I don't have any triumph friends to talk to in person. I'm also young, and love the internet. If I post here, I'm bound to get some serious knowledge that I wouldn't get talking to one guy at the dealership garage. If I have to take some heckling along with that, I'm cool with it.
It's all good. Just don't mention Slick50 as being the greatest thing as sliced bread as a poor sap on vfrworld is still in hiding after all the abuse he took a few months ago!;)
 

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Use quality synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil.
I would agree with that, just be aware that a lot of people go wrong by putting the wrong weight of oil in. Much depends on the average temperatures in your part of the world.

If you live in a temperate area, oil that is too thick will make the clutch stick and shifting cluinky.

It's not a big deal, but it does make a difference.
 

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When I first purchased my bike used, I put Royal Purple in it, since this was what I was using in my cars at the time, and they made a motorcycle oil. Then last fall I put Mobil 1 in it, as the Royal Purple was pretty dirty when it came out. I know that synthetic runs much cleaner and has a tendency to clean out old mineral based deposits, and this may be what I was seeing, but I have no idea of what was in it when I got it. The Mobil 1 made for much harder shifting, but the weather was getting cool, so this might have been a factor. Last week, I used Amsoil, and now it shifts the best it ever has. There is a lab test of motorcycle oils on the Amsoil website, and while I understand that it is in their best interests to publish a report favorable to themselves, it is interesting reading. They have a new report that is going to be published soon for anyone interested. Basically, any quality synthetic oil is going to be fine, and some use the oils designed for diesels with success. Try several different brands, one at each change to see if your shifting is affected, and then settle on the one that gives you the best shifting. All of the synthetics will do the engine protection thing, so the only noticeable factor from the rider's standpoint is the ease of shifting. I'll also mention that my bike has only 5000 miles on it, and higher mileage, broken in transmissions may react differently. Finally, I just don't think that price should be any kind of factor, as the cost of an engine rebuild far exceeds even the most expensive oil changes.
 

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Triumph reccomend Mobil 1 and brand their own. This a synthetic 15-50wt , Mobil also do a Mobil1VT for V twin that run hotter than inline motors ( rear cylinder is sheided) that might work on T'bird in hot climates as l have noticed them get hotter in traffic than other bikes l have riden including the ST range. l used a large chain stores own brand semi-synthetic 10-40 in my ST with no problems as well as Silkoline semi 10-40. You pays your money .... just make sure you chnge the filter every time too.
 

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Brit bikes/Brit oils (Naturally)

Morris Super Sport 4 10w-40 Semi Synthetic.

I also run this oil in the Sprint which puts out 112hp against the Adventurers 70 (odd). The Sprint is ridden extremely hard over long distances usually loaded to the gunnels with 'Rally Gear'. Each bike gets a oil/filter change at 5000 mile intervals and in each instance the oil is clear and a golden colour.
For both bikes Triumph recomend EITHER a semi or full synthetic oil.
Over here the the price of the latter is almost double that of the former!
The Adventurer has done 30,000m on this oil (purchased at 18,000) and the Sprint 7000m (purchased at 3000m)
In my case buying full synthetic is a waste of money and will provide no additional benefits over semi.

www.morrislubricants.co.uk
 

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According to the Owner's Handbook

as lovescuba said, Triumph recommends either a full or semi-synthetic oil. Suggested weights are 15w-50 or 10w-40. Was going to try Valvoline Durablend MC oil (semi-synth), but couldn't find it anywhere locally, so bought the M 1 4T @ twice the cost.

If you want some additional fun, ask which oil filter you should use...*G

And don't worry about getting your testicles hammered in here. This is a great bunch of folks and they are an incredible resource -very very few mean-spirited.
 

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This last oil change I used, for the first time, something other than Triumph's Racing 4T - I used Silkolene 4T, recommended by my local Triumph dealer - its a cool looking blood red :D
 

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and if the old oil comes out dirty....that's called cleaning deposits from the engine...............
and that would be caused by worn rings or exhaust valve guides allowing blowby to enter the sump.
If the maintainence schedule is adhered too it would be very rare for our triple engines to badly discolour any brand of oil until very high milages have been achieved and significant bore, ring and guide wear is apparent.
 
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