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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, she's been in and out of the shop, picked her up again this past Friday, was so-say fixed... but I rode her last night and she broke down again!

Shop said she had a bad ground and needed a new relay - not sure which one he replaced.

This is what is going on - she started up just fine, left her running while I put my gear on. Rode for about 25 miles or so, while on the freeway, I had to flash-up my bf who was riding with me, she then cut out. I dropped down a few gears and she then pop-started. He said that he saw my headlight go out when my bike cut out. She did it again at low rev/speed going through town.

I then get to my destination, turn her off and my bf takes her for a spin to see whats going on, she runs fine, not a hiccup.

We stop for a few mins, go to start her back up and click-click - NOTHING!!! The indicator lights on the instrument panel light up, no fuel pump no lights.

Removed the seat and cowl, can hear relays clicking when the ignition is turned, but nothing, she's totally dead.

Bf took a look at her today, checked the relays, fuses and the ignition, all have power/in good order - but still nothing.

I LOVE this bike, but I just feel like kicking her over into the dirt and throwing the keys at her :DeadHorse

Any ideas?
 

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Okay guys this is the BF. After spending a couple hundred bucks at the shop and them saying it is fixed it broke down once again.

The problem seems intermittent. Dabrit was going along fine and I saw in the rear view mirror as her light went out and back on, she told me at the stop light that the bike shut down then came back on. once we arrived at our destination i took it for a test run.... no problems. When we tried to leave to head home she turned on the key and nothing......

The symptoms are no lights and turn signals. Parking light does not work, no horn, and no fuel pump cycle. lights on the IP work but that is it. I hear the fuel pump relay turn on then off.

So far I have pulled the headlight and all body panels. All plugs have been cleaned and checked for proper conection using the fluke meter. ignition switch has been taken apart and cleaned. Conductivity has been checked and verified.
I removed the bar switches to check for a short and no problems were found. All the switches are clean and working properly.

Any ideas what to check next?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
UPDATE: Took an ohm reading from negative battery post to frame and reading is 28.5 ohms… is this normal?
 

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With the key on I took a voltage reading at the tail lamp. I am getting a 12v reading on both positive and negitive sides using the Negitive post of the battery as ground. I am stummped :confused::confused::confused:
 

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DaBritsguy, You'll see voltage on both sides of the lamp, through the filiment from a common ground when power is applied to the lamp. You should see 0 ohms of resistance between the (-) battery terminal and the frame. Check in another spot.

Check the battery terminals are tight. If not there, the trouble will be somewhere in the main power circuit (headlights die) and don't discount the battery itself.

Brad
 

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DaBritsguy, You'll see voltage on both sides of the lamp, through the filiment from a common ground when power is applied to the lamp. You should see 0 ohms of resistance between the (-) battery terminal and the frame. Check in another spot.

Check the battery terminals are tight. If not there, the trouble will be somewhere in the main power circuit (headlights die) and don't discount the battery itself.

Brad
I would try the ground location to the motor. Just because its tight dosent mean it is good. Take grounds apart and check for corrosion or sommthing causing resistance.
 

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With the key on I took a voltage reading at the tail lamp. I am getting a 12v reading on both positive and negitive sides using the Negitive post of the battery as ground. I am stummped :confused::confused::confused:
Did you back probe into connector or take bulb out and check at bulb connections?
 

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... You should see 0 ohms of resistance between the (-) battery terminal and the frame. ...
Not necessarily Brad - there is no connection to the frame, only the engine - any connection to the frame is spurious via the engine bolts and through paint, anodizing or whatever
( irreelevant whether frame is electrically connected anyway, as there are zero electrical components connected to it)

See other thread - issue was with the grounding block.

You'll see voltage on both sides of the lamp, through the filiment from a common ground when power is applied to the lamp
... only if there is no ground present on the return side (which presumably there was not - yet should have been)
 

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I think - hope - by 2001 they had the latest from the factory and less problems with that.
Just went out and looked for about ten mins with motor out of frame and all plastic off. . Cant find connector does a late 2000 have this ground block? My stuff is moved around a bit due to the battery tray and under seat exhaust. Is it off the junction block loom or ecm loom if so how many millimeters away from conector. Ever thing is taped up but dont see any bulgs in loom were this ground block would be. In the search of other threads it looks like it had it up past that year? And i did see what the block lock like should be blue or white. Did some not have one?
 

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t95512001, If you have a ground block it'll either be white (no good) or blue and it is OEM located on the RHS of the battery box. It's a connector with several black wires attached.

DEcosse, I get 0 ohms between ground cable and subframe. I missed the key on part about the lamp...oops withaground, no battery, orjust a trace should be seen.

Brad
 

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t95512001, If you have a ground block it'll either be white (no good) or blue and it is OEM located on the RHS of the battery box. It's a connector with several black wires attached.

I have looked every where I can not find connector. I took battery and ECM out. I think 99 was the last year. I am going to dig out the wiring diagrams and see if I cant see find anything.
 

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...I get 0 ohms between ground cable and subframe. ....
There is no physical wiring connection between subframe (or main frame for that matter) and the battery -ve. It matters none whether you have zero, a hundred ohms or open circuit - there are zero electrical components connected to the frame and zero current flows through the frame.
So why do you measure '0' ohms in your case? Incidental contact from the engine (which IS directly connected to the battery -ve) through engine bolts, frame bolts etc. I've seen guys try to clean these interfaces of paint or anodizing or add additional grounding wires to different frame points which is totally moot - again, zero current through the frame because no device is electrically connected to it. Current DOES flow through the engine - return current from spark plugs and starter motor, but all of that current goes directly down the cable to the battery -ve. None of it goes through the frame because it has no-where to go.
When connecting accessories they should never be 'grounded' to the frame, but to the battery -ve.
 

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I have looked every where I can not find connector. I took battery and ECM out. I think 99 was the last year. I am going to dig out the wiring diagrams and see if I cant see find anything.
Per BikeBandit, there are only two wiring harness editions through 2001 - the first is obviously the one which is for the T595 and the MC2000 ECM; the second would be for the MC1000 ECM, 99 on.

That would suggest that it was still used and I've seen some references for sure on guys with 200 models

(Would not claim 100% that it is definitely there however)

The block is often encased in a bunch of foam so may not be immediately obvious.
 

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DEcosse, No,the chassis isn't in any circuit, but through the engine mounts and subframe attachment it will be grounded via the engine ground.

Perhaps I read zero ohms resistance is because almost every major attachment bolt on my '98 was loose when I first recieved it and were tightened.

Brad
 

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Per BikeBandit, there are only two wiring harness editions through 2001 - the first is obviously the one which is for the T595 and the MC2000 ECM; the second would be for the MC1000 ECM, 99 on.

That would suggest that it was still used and I've seen some references for sure on guys with 200 models

(Would not claim 100% that it is definitely there however)

The block is often encased in a bunch of foam so may not be immediately obvious.
DEcosse do you know what harrness this ground block is in? Is it the sub harness for the ecu and engine controls or the main harness for everything else.
The only grond junction I have found is at the engine. a bunch of wires splice together at the eye let to engine ground. Cant not find ground block. I know what they look like cause we have then in our older Land Rovers.
I just want to determine if some did not have this ground block. So other will know in the future.
 

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Well, she's been in and out of the shop, picked her up again this past Friday, was so-say fixed... but I rode her last night and she broke down again!

Shop said she had a bad ground and needed a new relay - not sure which one he replaced.

This is what is going on - she started up just fine, left her running while I put my gear on. Rode for about 25 miles or so, while on the freeway, I had to flash-up my bf who was riding with me, she then cut out. I dropped down a few gears and she then pop-started. He said that he saw my headlight go out when my bike cut out. She did it again at low rev/speed going through town.

I then get to my destination, turn her off and my bf takes her for a spin to see whats going on, she runs fine, not a hiccup.

We stop for a few mins, go to start her back up and click-click - NOTHING!!! The indicator lights on the instrument panel light up, no fuel pump no lights.

Removed the seat and cowl, can hear relays clicking when the ignition is turned, but nothing, she's totally dead.

Bf took a look at her today, checked the relays, fuses and the ignition, all have power/in good order - but still nothing.

I LOVE this bike, but I just feel like kicking her over into the dirt and throwing the keys at her :DeadHorse

Any ideas?
I'm taking care of my friends 2004 955i right now and before he deployed he was having the same problem. I started riding it after I installed a rear tire on it and I it happened to me to, the bike will just shut down and pop start. (scary while riding) after two days of looking for the problem and reading this forum I found the wire harness that goes from the ignition to the connector by the right fork had a peeled wire that when hot melted a wire next to it and shorted intermittently, it didn't cause any fuses to blow. I repaired the wire's and the bike has been running like a champ. I'm in love with Triumphs now.. Hopefully you have the same problem and ur able to fix it..
 
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