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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can look at a wiring diagram and find lots of wires and connectors that provide 12V ignition switched power, but I'm not at all clear on the best way to physically get at this power. Should I strip insulation and solder? Use some type of fuse tap or wire tap? How do people jam wires into relays (relay tap?)? I'd like to do this correctly given factors such as weather, vibration, and the tight space available on a motorcycle. Photos would be much appreciated!
 

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A relay is always a nice isolation feature - by using a relay you will only draw ~ 150mA from whichever switched source you use for the relay coil and can supply power directly from an independent fused source (off battery or auxiliary fuse panel)
You can use many sources for the relay coil - even something as simple as the Parking light wire (but note that will also be active in the Lock/Park key position - which may or not be useful).
A Positap is a very nice device that is minimally invasive on your OEM wire (not at all like ScotchLoks which are a no-no!)

One of the best places to 'tap' either battery or ignition power is off the OEM alarm connector (assuming no alarm is fitted!)
Pin 4 is Ignition Power & pin 6 is Constant Battery Power.
Ideally you just buy additional terminals, crimp to wire & pop them in the connector shell.
The terminal type is Tyco Part # 175030-1
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I like the alarm connector method - if I can find a source for the tab contact. First Google resulted in a source (Digi-Key) priced at $3,194.10. I only need one. Anyone else need the other 35,999 of them? If I can't find a more reasonable amount I know I can find Posi-Taps. Thanks, DEcosse, this sounds a lot better than my novice strip and slobber, err solder.
 

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if you require power that is switched with the ignition you could use the square shaped plug second from the left that has a spring clip retainer as shown on post 7 of this thread. I have tested it and power switches with the ignition on and off

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-technical-talk/176747-what-was-this-connector.html


dont know about yours but my bike has three of these connectors that arent used for anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
if you require power that is switched with the ignition you could use the square shaped plug second from the left that has a spring clip retainer as shown on post 7 of this thread. I have tested it and power switches with the ignition on and off

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-technical-talk/176747-what-was-this-connector.html


dont know about yours but my bike has three of these connectors that arent used for anything.
My 2007 Speedie doesn't seem to have any of these under the tank or seat, however, the alarm connector is hanging right there, out in the open, and Triumph has nicely provided a jumper plug - making installation of a contact for 12V switched embarrassingly simple! Not sure where the alarm connector is on other bikes, but if you have a carb'd Speedie with no alarm DEcosse's solution is quite elegant. Thanks for the alternative, though!
 

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Here is the pin-out for the bypass connector:
(the OEM loops are in 1-2 & 3-5)

It is not conventional in that 5 pins (1-5) are on the top row and 7 pins (6-12) are on the bottom row

Again - Pin 4 is Ignition Power & pin 6 is Constant Battery Power & pins 9 & 12 are Ground.
These 'slots' are all available.



 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Headlight power

OK, we've got great solutions for constant power, switched power, and ground. The illumination for this AFR gauge wants headlight power, I guess so it won't light while cranking the starter motor. Somewhere I recall seeing someone (Forchetto) wire into a relay (in my case it would be the starter relay - #40 on the carb'd Speedie wiring diagram), but I couldn't see the physical attachment to the terminal. For my case, that's terminal 87a in the middle of the plug, fed by the blue wire. How do people attach there? Just jam a wire into the terminal's socket? solder the new wire to the terminal? or is there such a thang as a "relay tap" similar to fuse taps? or what????? (This is really a post mortem - I am horrified that I stripped insulation and soldered even though it works. A Posi-Tap would have been better. But maybe there's yet a better way using the terminal?)
 

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... The illumination for this AFR gauge wants headlight power, I guess so it won't light while cranking the starter motor.
I am doubtful that was the intention - many other bikes (and certainly not cars) don't even have that 'cut while starting' feature.
It's just to have it work on the lighting circuit (I haven't studied the Innovate hook-up, but you might check to see if it is 'dimming' input when headlights are on)

... .... Just jam a wire into the terminal's socket?
Oh dear, no!!!

....solder the new wire to the terminal? or is there such a thang as a "relay tap" similar to fuse taps? or what????? ...
The Positap is probably the best solution - minimally invasive and easily executed without any special skills or tools.
To attach at the relay, remove the wire/terminal from the socket, cut off terminal and install new terminal with both wires. Needs to be crimped with the proper crimp tool and the terminal needs to be sized adequately for both wires. Final result will be very clean.

Here are some great wire-splicing options:

http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/waytek/catalog224/#/22

Note the multi-wire splices and also the 'step-down' butt connectors (which can also be used for multi-wire)
Note those splices with the additional low-temp solder flow - those are great! Three-in-one - crimp, solder and heat-shrink water-seal all in one package!
 
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