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See a post few days ago; now have a locking system to keep hands out from under my saddle. Anyway, can't come right now, bike's "in for a service". It not a crimp problem.
What I did with my classic Triumph today?
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Submissions are now being taken for MAY TRIUMPH OF THE MONTH
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I used to use salvaged harnesses to color match, then when I finally used up the 4 or 5 old harnesses I had, I started using crimp-on automotive ones. People give me grief, but I have NEVER had a terminal failure on about 70+ classic British bikes I have worked on for clients, and zero failures on 44 Triumphs, 13 Nortons and 4 BSAs I've owned, that I put crimp connectors on.
I always gave my clients the choice, too...
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But they look HORRIBLE!
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I was taught in the Navy the proper way to crimp, and test my crimp. You can't see them unless you open the seat or the headlight shell.
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Ok, ok, so it’s just me. I used to wire up very expensive scanners, and I knew someone would look!
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I don't care if anybody looks, as long as it's still working 20 years from now.
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If the bike stops, could be electrical. Say, a dirty switch, or shorted something or other.
The hot wire connects the ignition directly to battery.
The hotwire is marked green. The connection I would swap it with is marked red.
Therefore, at roadside, could get home, if above problems occur.
Also good to quickly rule in or out above problems at home.
There's a thread of StuartMac 's how to do this, maybe he remembers the link.
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So's 28 just a number. Quite a nice number...
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Just don’t tell Stuart. Me, I’m 73 this year, but without checking my DOB, I can’t remember!
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Hi,
Hth.
Regards,
Nope ...
I know some of these:-
... crimped by someone in the original Lucas company are still working 47 years later ... and the first I crimped are still working 39 years later ...
Hth.
Regards,
I'm an electrical engineer and deal with wiring all day long. I also don't like the blue crimp on connectors, but if they are done correctly, there is nothing wrong with them and they will work for a very long time. I prefer to solder my connections and connectors, but there are times that that is just overkill, and the blue connectors will suffice. Problem is, most people don't know how to crimp them on correctly. However, even done poorly, they will work and last a long time.
Rob
Rob
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1,291 Posts
You gave up to quickly, Mick.
My connectors will doubtless outlive me; however, there is an elegance and beauty in the crimps you suggest. I'd have said, given my background, God is in the details. What that means is, even if a detail is buried in the middle of a wall, someone knows it's there. As I ride along, I would get a tidge more satisfaction with the knowledge beautiful detailing is hidden under the seat I'm sitting on.
Not changing the crimps though! They'll do.
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Ahh, they'll be haunting you forever!
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I am almost positive that I have crimps still holding 40+ years, but I just don't have those bikes or equipment any more. Last year I sold a couple of bikes that I had since the '90s and they were doing fine. The bike I've had the longest, that I re-wired or repaired electrical on, has only been with me since I built it in 2007 (my Bonneville race bike)
I had a '70 Bonnie "TrophyVille" that I got in 1999 that still had ALL the original Lucas stuff, I never had a battery in it, the original 2MC capacitor is all it ever needed. I had to make a few minor repairs to get the lights going after I bought it (also rings, valve job and tires). As far as I know the point & condensers were original. So original stuff still good 40 years on; the stuff I did to it was still good 20 years on.
Oh, yeah, an original '67 taillight and lightswitch in the sidecover...
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Strobe-timed my T140.
To drain oil in the house, had to take centre stand off. When tried strobing in garden, garden and me got seriously covered in oil from inspection hole. I was seriously miffed.
Ah, I thought 💡! Tipped bike other way, into footrest.
![Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Fuel tank]()
NO oil is sprayed out at all, even at 5,000 revs! Unlike on centre stand.
Not only that bike doesn't judder backwards; it bounces on front forks. Centre stand had previously damaged brick paviours.
Two wins, no oil spray, no bike going for walkies.
To drain oil in the house, had to take centre stand off. When tried strobing in garden, garden and me got seriously covered in oil from inspection hole. I was seriously miffed.
Ah, I thought 💡! Tipped bike other way, into footrest.
NO oil is sprayed out at all, even at 5,000 revs! Unlike on centre stand.
Not only that bike doesn't judder backwards; it bounces on front forks. Centre stand had previously damaged brick paviours.
Two wins, no oil spray, no bike going for walkies.
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1,291 Posts
Also used my new throttle holder for first time when strobing.
![Fuel tank Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive tire Automotive lighting]()
Can hold throttle at any position, releases when twisting to deacclerate.
Act as bar weights too. Will see how vibration is reduced tomorrow on a ride.
Got it to slightly hold throttle open on starting, so can put my gloves and helmet on after kicking.
Can hold throttle at any position, releases when twisting to deacclerate.
Act as bar weights too. Will see how vibration is reduced tomorrow on a ride.
Got it to slightly hold throttle open on starting, so can put my gloves and helmet on after kicking.
What’s the Oxford box on your handle bars Alex?
John.
John.
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Heated grips. Excellent. Only used them couple of times, my bikes been not working last four weeks. Looking forward to cosy fingers tomorrow. Easy to fit, automatically cut out when battery is too low, or alternator not charging.
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