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I think the perspective makes it look way larger than it is. Won't take even an open face lid, or a 5 litre petrol can. 😊 😊 😊
What about La La thenNot to be outdone, seeing Andytheflyer 's topbox https://www.triumphrat.net/cdn-cgi/...ww.triumphrat.net/attachments/024-jpg.773794/
... I assembled a bar riser that wouldn't fit without clashing with my T140E consule, a number plate from said dead T140E, four DIY brackets, and something that could pass for Tinky Winky's handbag.
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That void above light was created to be filled.
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Big enough for my litre fuel bottle, tools, and several Mars Bars.
Tinky Winky's the purple Teletubby, if anyone was wondering.
La La is a safer bet. But doesn't have a handbag, as far as I know .What about La La then
Ah, you spot everything, Peg!
Yes, I like them. Not much dust here. Only thing is, I can't get them off, and there's a grill on the mouth. Means I have to balance carbs by ear, rather than the rod under slider method. Which I don't think I've mastered...I like the open velocity stack on your carb alex! …FTG
That you were grinning ear to ear when she arrived is priceless! I'm envious!Mid afternoon ride to have tea and cakes with friends 20mi away, wife and child making their own way in the car. The ride there was great, just a light drizzle. Coming home in the dark in pouring rain with strong gusts of wind was not so pleasant... The country roads around here are pretty scary at night when wet in even a modern car, everything turns black. And then I ran out of petrol 4mi from home and had to sheepishly call the wife. She was not impressed at having to bundle the kid back into the car, find a petrol can, get petrol and arrive to find me grinning ear to ear.
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Thought you'd been quiet, John, I did notice your absence. Hopefully one day I'll have my bike running really nice too.Tokay I finally got my T140 running really nice, after replacing the old electronic ignition, regulator and carburettors just need some decent weather to take it on a test run.
John. Hi
Nearly the same as my colours. I like the purple and white. Far too shiny so ride through some puddles soon.Today I’ve been in the garage and decided to polish my T140 I used peak polish on the alloy and chrome also used Maguires Ceramic wax on the paintwork, and she’s come up like new.
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Have to admit, my bike is a pampered lounge queen. It even came home in a van on my last trip (sigh).Nearly the same as my colours. I like the purple and white. Far too shiny so ride through some puddles soon. View attachment 774049
I have a thin sheet of rubber mat that covers that entire area. held with cable ties to keep it in place like hinges, just lift to expose all the wiring. Keeps the metal seat base totally isolated from the wiring below. I have a spare wire like that ready to connect right to the Boyer and this isolates any other wiring to get me home. Not used it yet as my only electrical failures have been the Boyer unit so i was stuffed.Had a tidy up. The Great Spaghetti of Wires was causing me anxiety.
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Would preferred to have mounted a fuse box, but wasn't room, really, not without a fair bit of work.
What I now have is just main fuse and hotwire fuse in battery area, the two important ones. All other blade fuse holders (day riding lights, heated grips, battery charger connection) are in toolroll section.
Battery can now be easily accessed, and I can see what's going on.
I've made tape flags for the hot wire and main fuse connections, so it's easily identified and swapped if I breakdown (sigh). This is a first and easy diagnostic. Thanks to StuartMac for the hotwire guidance . The fuse for the hotwire is in the bag taped to the wire, alleviating any shorting out. The hotwire may one day be my ticket home.
Wires are taped away from the guillotine-edge that seperates battery and tool compartments.
Underside of seat has foam. Not only prevents shorting out, but holds everything still, so no rubbing.
I'm ashamed of you Alex, do I see those horrible squidgy insulated terminals? HERE are the ones to use, along with the male and female insulators (and of course a proper "W" crimp tool).Had a tidy up. The Great Spaghetti of Wires was causing me anxiety.
View attachment 774139
Would preferred to have mounted a fuse box, but wasn't room, really, not without a fair bit of work.
What I now have is just main fuse and hotwire fuse in battery area, the two important ones. All other blade fuse holders (day riding lights, heated grips, battery charger connection) are in toolroll section.
Battery can now be easily accessed, and I can see what's going on.
I've made tape flags for the hot wire and main fuse connections, so it's easily identified and swapped if I breakdown (sigh). This is a first and easy diagnostic. Thanks to StuartMac for the hotwire guidance . The fuse for the hotwire is in the bag taped to the wire, alleviating any shorting out. The hotwire may one day be my ticket home.
Wires are taped away from the guillotine-edge that seperates battery and tool compartments.
Underside of seat has foam. Not only prevents shorting out, but holds everything still, so no rubbing.
I read the terminal thread. The terminals I've introduced are not critical, they are for ancillary items (those with fuses in tool compartment). Other than the hotwire, which is under zero stress. I'm not recrimping existing connections. I'm 60 tomorrow, time's getting short... and, I'm going to grow old shamelessly.I'm ashamed of you Alex, do I see those horrible squidgy insulated terminals? HERE are the ones to use, along with the male and female insulators (and of course a proper "W" crimp tool).
Cheers,
Mick.
If you're ever across here again, I'll put some proper ones on when your back's turned!I read the terminal thread. The terminals I've introduced are not critical, they are for ancillary items (those with fuses in tool compartment). Other than the hotwire, which is under zero stress. I'm not recrimping existing connections. I'm 60 tomorrow, time's getting short... and, I'm going to grow old shamelessly.