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Hi Andy,
front bolt of the brake torque stay had gone
Fitted a new bolt and Nyloc and all seems OK again. Given that the original bolt had a Nyloc too, I'm at a loss to understand how disassembly had occurred,
Firstly, I'm pleased nothing worse happened.

Secondly, Nylocs are horrible devices; they wear out rapidly but at an indeterminate rate - I once managed to wear our a set of Nylocs in just an afternoon. They'd been supplied with a Rickman T140 rack I was fitting to one of my T160's, so I was loosening and tightening nuts repeatedly as I adjusted the rack on the bike. Wasn't an issue in my case as the Nylocs were plated and I was intending to fit stainless not-Nylocs when I knew what I needed to order; nevertheless, I was surprised just how quickly they became 'non-locking'. (n)

When worn out, they're just like an ordinary nut - they have the potential to loosen and disappear. (n) Then whatever they're securing also has the potential to disappear ... Aside, aiui when used on an aircraft, they're single-use - when undone, they're replaced.

Nevertheless, I'm surprised the bolt dropped out as well - when I came to fit the bolt on my T100, I discovered the rear frame tube was in the way ... was/is your bike's bolt fitted from the wheel side of the swinging arm?

Also on my T100, the swinging arm lug is threaded, the bolt is supposed to simply screw into that; however, I fitted a longer bolt (setscrew) so I could also fit a nut; coupled with the thread in the lug, the nut's simply a locknut

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Hi Stuart,

I think the bolt was fitted from the wheel side as there's not much room from the outer side. The hole in the s/a is threaded but I think it's largely stripped, hence the nut and bolt.

I don't generally re-use a Nyloc more than a very few times but maybe this one needs a once-only protocol. I have some of the mechanical locknut types so may have to use one of those.

Whatever, I'm now aware of the issue so will pay more attention to this fastener.
 

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I have some of the mechanical locknut types so may have to use one of those.
Hi Andy,
Amen to that, Nyloc nuts are good if used correctly (once), but for securing anything that is "Safety Critical" or hidden away, it would be far better to use either a "Clevelock" or a "Philidas" nut, both of which can be re-used and will still lock securely.


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Clevelock Nut and Philidas Nut
Terry
 

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Never had the brake arm bolts undo. I use nyloc nuts for the engine mounts and they have worked very well for many years. Most common nuts to fall off are the rear mudguard fixings which are just plain nuts and bolts but loctite has cured that problem. I certainly pays to have a quick visual after a journey so you can see how much weight has been lost.
 

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Hi Andy,
think the bolt was fitted from the wheel side as there's not much room from the outer side.
Afaict, that was supposed to be the idea - bolt fitted from the "outer side", the rear frame tube stops it dropping out even if it comes loose. However, amhik it's a pita if the builder doesn't realise and fits the rear frame before the torque arm ...

hole in the s/a is threaded but I think it's largely stripped, hence the nut and bolt.
Uh-uh, '71-on parts books illustrate/list the same longer (1"UH) bolt and nut as your bike; otoh, '70 parts books illustrate/list the same as my '69 - only a 5/8"UH bolt just screwed into the lug.

aware of the issue so will pay more attention to this fastener.
I did fit the bolt from the "wheel side"; however, I had to modify the bolt head considerably as there wasn't space from the lug to the swinging arm tube for either a hex. or socket cap head; as your bike's supposed to have space for a hex. lock nut, you might want to check the space is actually there, the bolt hex. corners weren't simply gouging the swinging arm tube?

I don't generally re-use a Nyloc more than a very few times but maybe this one needs a once-only protocol. I have some of the mechanical locknut types
When I had my Nyloc experience, I wasn't using self-locking nuts at all, after bad experiences with the all-metal types NVT fitted originally to the T160 and I'd replaced many with stainless domed nuts. However, Dave Middleton used to stock all-metal Staytites, my T160's have a few, my T100 has many, they're always consistently easy to tighten/loosen.

Absent Staytites, while Triumph listed both the types @Shippy Terry posted, the 14-1303 listed in the parts book is a "Stiffnut" ... which helpfully :rolleyes: was both an actual name and a generic (as in "hoover") ...

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Had a few suitable nuts in the boxes of fasteners and cut down a suitably long 3/8 unf bolt to just fit behind the subframe member - bolt inserted from the wheel side butts up against the swing arm tube so does not rotate - handy. The nuts I have have 2 staked protrusions so slightly bruise the bolt thread when tightened - they are a use-once fastener - both bolt and nut. I don't expect to have to remove this bolt any time soon. Did it up bast*rd tight. That's not coming apart again in a hurry. But I'll be keeping an eye on it now. Got away with it yesterday but don't intend a repeat performance as may not be so lucky next time. We live and learn, hopefully.

Cleaned the chain whilst I was down there and then re-lubed. Good to go.
 

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20 mile ride this Afternoon in the sun. stopped at my great Nephews house in East Budliegh and saw my great great Nephew and Niece for the first time. the boy was was able to tell me the bike had a wheel on the front. Glad it did or i was going to have to wheelie it home.
P1000102.JPG
 

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Managed to get the rebuilt tr6 out for a short ride today, for a first ride following the rebuild.
Managed to lose 2 bolts from the bracket holding the silencer.... my fault as I didn’t use lock tight (now replaced bolts with lock tight, and sprung washers.). Not the end of the world I know !
i will be going round all the bolts to check tightness when I can get a moment over the next couple of days.

bike was running okay, and then I managed to collect a screw through the rear tyre!. Only a short distance from home thankfully. So need to sort that before I can get another ride in
Now I just need to work out where the oil is leaking from.
I think I have slight leak from the cylinder base gasket, but don’t know why as I used a gasket, and torqued the heads down correctly. Will this maybe settle after a couple of heat cycles?. I don’t really want to be pulling the engine back apart again so soon.
I do hope that I can get the puncture fixed and sort the leaks a bit, as I was enjoying my first ride on a classic triumph, especially as it’s the first triumph I have rebuilt!

ride safe y’all
 

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Managed to get the rebuilt tr6 out for a short ride today, for a first ride following the rebuild.
Managed to lose 2 bolts from the bracket holding the silencer.... my fault as I didn’t use lock tight (now replaced bolts with lock tight, and sprung washers.). Not the end of the world I know !
i will be going round all the bolts to check tightness when I can get a moment over the next couple of days.

bike was running okay, and then I managed to collect a screw through the rear tyre!. Only a short distance from home thankfully. So need to sort that before I can get another ride in
Now I just need to work out where the oil is leaking from.
I think I have slight leak from the cylinder base gasket, but don’t know why as I used a gasket, and torqued the heads down correctly. Will this maybe settle after a couple of heat cycles?. I don’t really want to be pulling the engine back apart again so soon.
I do hope that I can get the puncture fixed and sort the leaks a bit, as I was enjoying my first ride on a classic triumph, especially as it’s the first triumph I have rebuilt!

ride safe y’all
I would suggest the tappet block O ring might be the cause of your base gasket leak. It gives the appearance of the gasket failed.
 

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Rambo.
thank you for that. It was a new o ring so should not have failed, but I will keep it in mind as a possible source of oil escapes. I have to get my puncture fixed before I can use the bike again....... bloody typical, not ridden this bike before, and first proper run, and I pick up nerd nail (well, a cross head screw) in the rear tyre. This bike is fighting me all the way, but from the short ride I had, it will be worth it.
thanks again for the possible source of a leak, I will check next time I get her out on the road, and replace if necessary.

ride safe
Dave
 

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We used to call screws, scrails, most were smacked in with a hammer on building sites like nails. The carpenter said the threads were only there to take them out. Then they would use the screwdriver for the final tighten. I had a screw in a car tyre last week, someone must be throwing them around.
 

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Peg and Stuart mac

you are both correct, I’m a long time Ogri fan....it did say Nerg nail, then autocorrect ruined my writing....again.
hope you all avoid the attentions of the nergs out there
 

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Going around town on my trident yesterday, dropped to my friends house to taka a look at a cafe racer he was working on.
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Open face- I have davida - slightly "shroom head" but rather that than a cabbage?
Previous open face years ago was a shoei
Still looking for a suitable open face helmet. Bought a Nolan make as I used to have one ages ago and my surname is Nolan, but I wrongly chose one without a drop down visor! It has a small sunshade that just rams the air into my eyeballs, so will offer that at half price to someone and make a proper purchase later!
Been checking out a slight oil leak on the 73 T140V and its a weeping oil feed where a black plastic pipe enters the rear of the primary casing. Will need to investigate the reason .. Liam
 
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