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Sunny today so i woke up the bike after 3 months sitting in the cold.Needed some easy start to get it going as petrol had clogged up the carbs a little.Then it did start and tickover as usual.Went for a 30 mile run noticing a clutch slip which has set in during the lay up so i am guessing some oil is soaking the plates.Job number 1 for next week.On return,i turned the key back to ignition and no lights and the bike died.Seems the poor old ignition switch has been killed by vibration but it has lasted around 15 years.Job number 2.Nothing fell off and no oil leaked out.Tomorrow up to the Midlands autojumble and bring back a new key switch.Really,the idea of a key switch is a bad idea for the use the bike gets.It always just has a ride and back home so i might be looking into something different for a switch.The key rattling around is what kills it.
Grins all the way on the ride after 3 months of poor weather and cold.
 

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rambo, i have had the same problem with key switches. i just fitted a high quality toggle to my daily driver. its under the seat and not very visible. simple and much more reliable.

few people these days would know how to start it anyway so thrres no security issues.
 

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rambo, i have had the same problem with key switches. i just fitted a high quality toggle to my daily driver. its under the seat and not very visible. simple and much more reliable.

few people these days would know how to start it anyway so thrres no security issues.
Yes,i am thinking of fitting a simple manual switch.Out at a jumble today and no sellers had a key switch.Of course,my bike is wired for an ignition switch failure with a quick connection link under the seat so i could get home apart from no other electrical equipment would work.I did put a video on youtube showing how to wire a simple link to the Boyer for emergency use.https://youtu.be/NBDpiz40rLE
Here it is again if no one has seen it.
My solutions to electrical problems come from my employment in electrical installation for over 40 years so i often do things different.The switch really needs to be easily accessed for turning off though.My bike has no working handlebar engine cut out.
 

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I spent a little quality time with my carbs and cases, a bit of Mother's and a fair amount of elbow grease.

Very nice!! What a shame to have to tickle these and have all that staying fuel get into all the crevices Amal build in. RR. :grin2:
 

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I got home a couple of hours earlier than expected so I took the T120R out for a blast. Got back home and reached down to the side panel to switch it off... no key. Not only was there no key but there was no lock barrel either. The whole lot was probably lying at the roadside somewhere. A bit pissed off 'cos it was a brand new Lucas (Wassel ?) ignition switch that had only been fitted less than 1,000 miles ago. Fortunately, it looks like the switch is OK and I only need to buy a new barrel and keys. Might have to think about an alternative arrangement.
 

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I got home a couple of hours earlier than expected so I took the T120R out for a blast. Got back home and reached down to the side panel to switch it off... no key. Not only was there no key but there was no lock barrel either. The whole lot was probably lying at the roadside somewhere. A bit pissed off 'cos it was a brand new Lucas (Wassel ?) ignition switch that had only been fitted less than 1,000 miles ago. Fortunately, it looks like the switch is OK and I only need to buy a new barrel and keys. Might have to think about an alternative arrangement.
My key switch failed last week after a very long time.Works on lighting and ignition but not ignition only.Ordered a pattern one from Steve Burch down Kingsbridge at less than £19.Not arrived yet so may be rubbish or maybe not.Its not a Lucas for certain.Arrives soon so will be interesting to see the quality.
 

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Hi,

took the T120R out for a blast. Got back home and reached down to the side panel to switch it off... no key. Not only was there no key but there was no lock barrel either.
A bit pissed off 'cos it was a brand new Lucas (Wassel ?) ignition switch that had only been fitted less than 1,000 miles ago. Fortunately, it looks like the switch is OK and I only need to buy a new barrel and keys. Might have to think about an alternative arrangement.
My key switch failed last week after a very long time.
Ordered a pattern one
Its not a Lucas for certain.
will be interesting to see the quality.
Risking telling you things you know already:-

. Despite the different five-figure part numbers, it's the same switch on your bikes as the T160 and '79-on twins switch. These often 'fail' due to internal corrosion, due to their upright position and no drain for any water that gets in. :rolleyes: The base with the terminals can be prised carefully from the case (usual caveat about flying springs) to clean and grease the terminals. On T160 and '79-on switches, I drill a small hole in the lowest point of the base, so any water that gets in can get out too.

. The T160 and '79-on twins switch securing ring allows use of either of their arrangements to better-seal the lock. Electric-start Commandos also used the same switch; because the console was open at the bottom, they have a cover for the terminals end of the switch too. Pm if you want the Notrun part number.

. The only thing that keeps the lock in the switch is that spring-loaded pin; worth checking that it's properly-engaged in the lock?

. Ime, things to note/check on pattern switches:-

.. The terminals aren't numbered on some. :bluduh If so, before pulling the wires off the old switch, maybe mark the pattern switch's terminals then check the functions with a multimeter?

.. Some have all four terminals as double tabs. However, others have one terminal as a single tab. Patterns of this type position the terminals closer to the metal casing than originals, the single terminal can be twisted on its rivet by attached wiring and touch the metal case ... :bluduh

. From the memory of losing the keys from the ignition lock of my 250 Honda (under the tank :bluduh) many years ago, the key for the T150 and T100 is on one of those stretchy coiled key-cords - 99p or £1 from the corresponding shop. :)

Hth.

Regards,
 

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My 71 USA tank arrived from ebay at £160 plus post.Not bad with badges and cap.Been stored with oil inside to keep rust under control.Painting will commence in a few weeks time in purple and black this time with white coachlines.Often,when one of these is available,it can be in the £200 area without the badges and usually dented so i have a bargain this time.I now have 3 USA and 2 UK tanks on the shelf.Should last me out.I just like the spraying work i do on these as a hobby.I cant paint pictures but spray painting is a doddle.
 

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There'll be a locknut on it, won't there?
Yeah, simple case of the lock but not being done up tight enough. Thought I'd leave it not too tight as I'm still making adjustments and it was a proper sod to get off. Obviously went too far the other way. It was going well up to that point though. Pleased with the conversion, just on the adjusting phase now, I'll have it sorted this weekend I think.
 
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