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A tip to gbc and others on doing close up photos and dealing with shiny bits. Don't use the flash. Turn it off. You could also try using a darker background for the photo that has a flat finish, but that is not a must. For gbc's pic, just turning off the flash would have probably given the bolts more detail and depth.

The other trick is to shoot them at a slight angle so that any reflected light does not wash out the nice shiny finish. As you look thru the view finder, try to see something reflected in the part. Then you know that you probably will not have any glare.

They came out nice, gbc. If you want those same bolts to look original, just bead blast them.

regards,
Rob
 

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That's what I've found, but it isn't right, it just indicates the low quality of manufacture, whether Harris or Emgo or Wassel or whatever, they all seem to be sloppy from new. Kibblewhite products can't be obtained here in UK for some reason (unless anyone knows different - and please give details if you do!). Norman Hyde guides are a lot better than the typical pre-worn brass things most places are selling.
Why not order from the US and then shipped to you in the UK? Here's a full set of valves and guides:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Trium...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e978e97e8
 

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I have always bought from a reputable supplier, dave Middleton, andy molnar, tricor England or a guy on ebay ( for cycle part fixings ) who seems to specialise in triumph bits

They have always been polished up with no gradings
Then how do you know what you're getting? Grade 2, 5, 8 or whatever? I'd never settle for such on a race car with the seller touting how shiny they are.
 

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Thanks for the link Wally. That Kibblewhite set looks very good value even with the postage. Ill keep it in mind and see whether I can find someone I can trust to fit and hone them properly without charging too much.
 

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Because the middle tons have been in the business years and andy is a bike engineer. I trust their word that it is suitable. I wouldn't buy stainless bits at a bike show from a van and use them in safety critical applications
 

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Thanks for the link Wally. That Kibblewhite set looks very good value even with the postage. Ill keep it in mind and see whether I can find someone I can trust to fit and hone them properly without charging too much.
John I'm not sure if this is any help but a mate damaged the alloy head on his drag race car, and had it repaired here, I don't know if they do bike work but it might be worth a call or maybe Hyde's might recommend someone, I'm loving the look of the bike btw

http://www.robwalkerengineering.co.uk/
 

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Thanks for the link JT, they certainly seem a proper enginerring shop by their website. I'm still hoping to find somewhere I can trust in Norfolk though. I thought I had a couple of months ago but heard a couple of bad reports from acquaintances, so decided not to chance it.
 

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Hi John,

Kibblewhite products can't be obtained here in UK for some reason
I just checked with Richard Peckett (P&M); he advised the problem with Kibblewhite is they have a high minimum order value, the guides have to be reamed after fitting and, because the material is so hard, it wears hones out quickly unless special diamond ones are used.

Richard says he can supply similar British-made plasma-nitrided valves for twins as he uses in triples, he fits Hyde guides.

P&M are on 020 8847 1711.

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Hi John,


I just checked with Richard Peckett (P&M); he advised the problem with Kibblewhite is they have a high minimum order value, the guides have to be reamed after fitting and, because the material is so hard, it wears hones out quickly unless special diamond ones are used.

Richard says he can supply similar British-made plasma-nitrided valves for twins as he uses in triples, he fits Hyde guides.

P&M are on 020 8847 1711.

Hth.

Regards,
This does help Stuart, thanks very much, I'll give him a ring.

Thanks too Caulky for the cyl head shop link, but I tried emailing several times a month ago and no reply. I don't like dealing with people who can;t be relied on to respond to enquiries.
 

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This does help Stuart, thanks very much, I'll give him a ring.

Thanks too Caulky for the cyl head shop link, but I tried emailing several times a month ago and no reply. I don't like dealing with people who can;t be relied on to respond to enquiries.
I've several experiences with shops that have email as a contact and why I don't know. But they answer the phone or call back quickly...I think web designers set them up and they go unused.
 

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As the wife would say…………Required work OR Procrastination?

Late yesterday I started Betty and tried to synch carbs.
It would sit there quite happily running on the left hand pot forever.
The right hand pot would last couple of minutes then die.
Didn’t think much of it and “tuned” the RPM to around 900/1000.
Started to clean up shed when I re-read Bushmans carb tuning secrets again.

And then the penny dropped…….
Internal gas passage with the fixed pilot jet. This jet is a small brass bushing with a tiny 0.016" (16 thou) orifice that is a press fit opposite the air adjusting screw. Gas is brought up from the float bowl and travels toward the front and is metered before it mixes with the air in the pilot mixing chamber.
The only remedy is to physically unclog the jet with a wire probe.

So guess what I did yesterday.
I didn’t have a guitar wire but I do have a wire brush.
I pulled out one of the strands and made it semi straight. After soaking carby in the ultrasonic bath for 30mins I looked inside this passage and to my surprise I could see the little brass bushing.
I then started to twist and twirl the piece of wire, I could actually feel the wire go into this hole.I did this a couple of times and then used carby cleaner to squirt out anything foreign.
I did this to both Caribe’s and later today I will have another play and see if she will run on the RH pot as she does on the LH pot.
I also got a bit game and use my ball pane hammer to squish the cleaning wire a tad just to flatten the point, this too was successfully inserted and made me happy.
I wonder what else I can find to stop me from riding her………




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speedo cable

Today I finally got around to replacing my speedo cable.
It's the 3rd one in as many years. I'm sure they failed due to the routing. This time I pulled the wheel off and routed it without any major bends. I think that will stop the sheath from pulling away from the nut at the drive as did the last two.
When aligning the rear wheel I followed the advise found on a forum search here ( thanks guys!), measuring from axle to swing-arm pivot bolt. It was much easier for me that the two straight edge method, it's first time the break pads just slipped in without any resistance.
 
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