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Agreed mate but its the same Nissin calliper that is fitted to the original. Says a lot really that Triumph are still fitting 20 odd year old calipers to pretty recent bikes and charging premium prices. So for me its an improvement as I now have a rear brake that actually works (y) :)
Triumph is now also making the bikes in Asia to save money, which is not reflected in the prices they want us to pay. Our Triples might becoming of age but they run well (mostly) and are at least made in England :)

One the side note, Harleys sold in Europe are now made in India but are still way more expensive that the US ones are in US. *** is that? Milwaukee 8 should be called New Delhi 8 for Europeans sold bikes ;)
 

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Pulled calipers to get the pins never seized up since my inspection told me they were a little sticky. Turns out the rear pin on the rear caliper had been replaced at some point with some kinda weak aluminum one, so that went and stripped like I was paying it to. New ones on the way.
Just a note from years of mechanical experience... never seize is not a good choice for lubricating caliper pins or any other brake parts. It dries up, even in the container. A better choice is silicone brake grease.
 

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Solo seat arrived by courier today from Netherlands for my TBS. Looks sound.
Fitted new Dunlop Mutant tyres, going up to a 170 on the rear as Dunlop don't make a 160 in that range.

Thats me spent up for now.
 

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Today I finally got around to doing the seat latch mod. on my Legend. I've had the latch and lock for awhile but was contemplating what to do about the pin for the seat. I really wanted a stock pin like on the Thunderbird seat. Well a couple of weeks ago I 'm on ebay searching and up pops an ad for a seat latch for a 2016 triumph rocket roadster and it looks an awful lot like the seat latch I have. I did a quick search and low and behold I could buy the seat bayonet (pin) and cushion. So went down to my local dealer and ordered them plus the lock seal that goes around the lock in the left side panel. After a couple of hours of fitting a spacer under the seat bayonet and job is done. I am waiting on the lock seal, parts guy said none available in N. America so I just made the hole in the side panel big enough for the key for now.
 

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How did you get the hole in the right spot? Unless I'm mistaken, you cannot fit the side panel over the lock unless the hole is there already, so I can't figure a good way to do it...

I got parts for the seat lock pin from [email protected]
 

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How did you get the hole in the right spot? Unless I'm mistaken, you cannot fit the side panel over the lock unless the hole is there already, so I can't figure a good way to do it...

I got parts for the seat lock pin from [email protected]
My side panel fits snugly, but it goes onto the pins. I put masking tape on the inside of the panel then put it on the pins and put the screw back in to make sure the positioning was right. I then took a sharp new full length pencil and traced around the lock as much as I could reach with the seat off. That gave me a little more than half a circle. Took the panel back of and drew the rest off the circle and measured for center, center punched it and drilled a 3/8" hole then used a rotary carbide burr to open up the hole and kept trying the cover on to make sure I was staying on center. I also had masking tape on the painted side to keep chipping to a minimum. I was in contact with Mr. Skinner earlier and he told me he wasn't making the parts anymore.
 

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Thanks! I'll give it a try. I figured it would stick out to far to fit right.

Too bad he's not making the parts. Let me know how the factory part works out. Mr. Skinner supplies a large diameter pencil about an inch long to clamp in the seat lock and mark the bottom of the seat for the pin...
 

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Thanks! I'll give it a try. I figured it would stick out to far to fit right.

Too bad he's not making the parts. Let me know how the factory part works out. Mr. Skinner supplies a large diameter pencil about an inch long to clamp in the seat lock and mark the bottom of the seat for the pin...
The pin clicked right into the latch with no problem. The only issue I can see is the back of the seat is a little wobbly, it's not sitting down on the seat bumpers on the bottom which should be sitting on the frame. I think this is caused by the latch itself and the fact that the seat pan has no relief in it for the latch. I made the spacer to go under the pin but I might take that out and cut a relief in the seat pan and then redo the pin height once the seat drops down over the latch. The spacer I made for the pin was 1/4" thick which made it level with the seat pan and that is approximately how far the bumpers are from the frame. I think I'll take the latch off put it on the pin then trace around it and cut out the pan and see what happens.
 

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Also to your question about the lock, I thought the same as you, that the cover shouldn't go on if the hole isn't there, but it did. I don't know how far the lock should come through the hole, I figured I may have to shim it out if it doesn't come through far enough. As to my previous reply the first picture shows the pin with the spacer. I may just have to cut some of the seat pan on either side to get the seat to drop down then just re-do the pin height.
 
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