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What did you do to your twin today?

2925702 Views 18041 Replies 2130 Participants Last post by  Dazby
The Classic triple forum has a thread for daily modifications and shop work. Lets get that going for twins as well.

Today I lowered my T100's rear brake lever. I took the pin out, the master cylinder off and adjusted the bucket and locknut. Now I won't be beside my brake pedal on that bike, I can be above it, ready to use it just a tiny bit quicker.

I also painted the worst-off gas cap I had, black. So I can ride on sunny days without being blinded by my own bike. - my sun visor is in the helmet, and comes down from the top so I get nice glare off the clocks and tank... :(
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recut the two frame threads for the nearside footrest outrigger/swing arm clamp thing. the screws were stiff all the way out and then wouldn't go back in without flattening the thread. It must have been overtightened last time someone had the swinging arm out. lovely now. can't do much more just yet because my arm's in a sling but am basically replacing a lot of rotten stuff ruined by 16 winters of commuting. .:)
Mines been in bits for a while to deal with a few corrosion issues, I scrapped the steel front mudguard and rusty stays and have now fitted a genuine plastic one with a new fork brace and some good used stays. The fork slider had severe surface corrosion under the paint so I removed the paint and then abraded with increasingly finer wet and dry. I needed a still day to apply the top coat which I did a couple of days ago. I used Halfords etching primer and Halfords Satin Black with really good results and not a bad match All the threads needed cleaning out with a tap. Then I fitted the front wheel and brake caliper. I have an as new swinging arm waiting to go on but I am waiting on a part for my chain tool as I would rather press and rivet the chain on the bench than on the bike but I may end up doing it the hard way. Then I fitted a good secondhand rear mudguard complete with the New Bonneville tail light off my old one. I fitted new bullet style indicators and alloy Motone brackets. There wasn't mutch room for the wires with the deep mudguard but I think I got away with it. A couple of suitable washers would move the indicators away from the mudguard I guess. The fact that I'd put sleeving on the wires and shrink wrapped them to the indicator spigots didn't help. Checked the indicators and tail light all worked. Also waiting are a pair of like new silencers and equally shiny rear shocks. I bought nearly all this stuff from one guy who had been collecting it to fix up his Bonnie but has decided to build a chopper instead. I bid for his swinging arm and then bought everything else he had for sale!
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Just found another job that needs doing on my Bonnie, it's a good job I'm retired. I have had a shop look after the brakes for the last few years so thought it would just be a quick clean up before I fit my swinging arm. Wrong. I spotted about 5mm / 3/16 of dust seal coming out of the caliper bore so I will have to do a full rebuild on it. Luckily I have the seal kits and the pistons are stainless but you don't expect it when the pads are barely broken in. If you ride on salted roads what happens is that aluminium oxide builds up in the grooves and make the dust seals bind I haven't had one trying to escape before though.
So I popped the pistons out of the rear caliper today and unfortunately there is a chunk of alloy missing part of which holds the dust seal in place. So I am looking for a good used caliper, just lost out on one on ebay which went for £56 with the carrier bracket. I have found that If you put the part number into Fowlers site it lists all the Triumphs that use the same caliper which is handy, speed triples etc so I have found one for £75 but am still looking.
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Finally rivetted the chain for my Bonnie with no mishaps, always a bit nerve wracking as It is not a job you do very often.
New to the bike swinging arm and suspension units going on tomorrow before the rain comes.
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Fitted the chain, swinging arm, suspension units and back wheel. It is beginning to look like a bike again. Just need to get hold of a decent rear caliper now, Swing arm was interesting, the previous owner had put the circlip on top of the grease seal, not in the slot next to the bearing. Luckily I got the grease seal out intact and was able to re=use it or it would have been another wait for parts, The bearings and seals are all new.
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Went over everything I've done so far with the Torque wrench apart from the front axle clamp because I want to bounce the front end but it is on a paddock stand at the moment. took the rear caliper off the end of the pipe because I've got an ebay one on the way but also, because I had been working on the caliper the line was in the wrong place when the swinging arm went back on. Whoops! the air would have been blue if it had been full of fluid and bled. Fitted the RH side panel, I had to recut the thread because the screw that came out was mangled and damaged the thread on the frame when it came out. One thing I have found out doing all this work is that some of the many professionals that have worked on the bike have used any old nuts, screws and washers out of the Come in Handy Box in preference to the genuine Triumph plated or stainless items that they have lost. I have replaced both the side cover screws with genuine Triumph items and the steel top hats behind them which were missing. I found that the largest stainless steel washer in my collection fits the coin slot perfectly so I will keep one under the seat on a bit of wire.
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My ebay caliper arrived today it was supposed to be ready to fit but I could see little bits of rubber comiing off the dust seals so it has to be rebuilt. Turned out one of them had nearly seized. Had a bit of a battle getting the pistons out but found a way of rotating them on You tube and after doing that I pumped them out with a track pump which was quite satisfying. My own Wemoto stainless pistons will go in with new seals after cleaning everything and all going well I will be back on the road tomorrow!
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Only had time to rebuild the caliper yesterday so this afternoon I have fitted it and bled it and it is working fine, got it off the paddock stand and fitted the shiny newish silencers, then side panels and seat on and front axle clamp now torqued up so I am ready to go. turned the engine over with the back wheel as I should have been doing while it was standing but we haven't had condensation temperatures for a while so it should be OK. I put some Red X in the tank to help the top end. It turns over on the starter but I didn't try and start it because I don't like starting and engine and then going nowhere. Test ride tomorrow!
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Test rode it this morning, runs very well and looks at least ten years younger! Wish I had a pic of it before all the work, it was mostly rusty. It started second turn of the starter and that is first time since June. Seat next when funds allow.
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Plant Automotive fuel system
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Test rode it this morning, runs very well and looks at least ten years younger! Wish I had a pic of it before all the work, it was mostly rusty. It started second turn of the starter and that is first time since June. Seat next when funds allow.
and here are some of the take offs:
Automotive tire Wood Bicycle part Motor vehicle Bicycle fork
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Rode it in the rain last week so I had to clean it again. I usced XCP Rust Blocker Clear
on the chrome and stainless steel but found it is great for the black engine cases too. I may regret this as the dirt might stick to it!
Tire Fuel tank Wheel Automotive fuel system Vehicle
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Are your rear turn signals mounted in this type of relocator? I need to move mine backward to use side bags (the rear turn signals are mounted in the rear shocks support) and I wonder if it looks good/discreet.

View attachment 793289

For the oxidation in the downpipes, I recommend "Autosol Metal Polish", it works quite well.
Yes, they are just like that, from Motone. They are aftermarket bullet ones. I think they look great. Previously I had drilled the mudguard and it did cause some rust but the whole thing was rusty. I didn't want to drill the new to the bike mudguard. Also if you drill the mudguard you have to secure the wires inside it. Thanks for the tip. I have some Autosol both the paste and liquid. I will have a go on the pipes when I have some time, maybe with a buffing wheel on a drill. I had kind of given up on them but have seen a vdeo recently showing that they can be improved.
Took mine out for a spin Sunday, about 40 miles. Went very well but a weird thing happened. I was in an unexpected traffic queue, stopping and starting for about half a mile when suddenly the back brake pedal went down about four inches! I gave it a few pumps and it was back to normal. It was only the third outing since I rebuilt the caliper and I don't often brake hard with the rear. One of the pistons hadn't got off the mark and the other one had been doing all the work. I topped up the fluid today confirming what had happened as It had gone down to low. I will physically check it next time, I have never known that happen. I also tightened up the Motone indicator brackets which had developed a squint, I used a bit more force on them this time. The slotted nature of the bracket allows movement if the set screws aren't really tight. I also added spring washers and plain ones to the genuine Jenks seat bolts that a friend kindly gave me, they won't stay tight for long without them and I should hate to lose one. Booked in for the MOT Test next week, hopefully should fly through.
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I have read about that happening somewhere, allegedly a poor design and there was a fix described.
I saw the fix as well, I'm going to do that,to the unbroken side as well. Can't believe that someone thought that an m8 stud would suffice and it made it all the way to the production line.
I think I will do mine. Over 40 000 miles on them I am surprised they are still hanging on!
Passed the MOT Test today with no advisories. Not bad for a 17 year old bike.
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My headers have been blowing a bit for a while and I have dreaded doing anything with them as the nuts are very rusty and the protruding studs are hardly recognisable. On closer examination I found that three of the studs were loose in the head and one of the pipes was moving so it is not going to be such a bad job after all as the nuts and studs will come out together. I have tightened them all up with a box spanner which was all I could get in behind the head steady and the blowing has all but stopped. I have ordered some deep 1/4" Drive deep
sockets and may be able to get away without stripping down just yet. A set of seals is on order just in case but if it comes to that I will be wanting to fit some better headers at the same time..
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Having recently scrapped a rear caliper due to salt eating enough of it away for the dust seal to start protruding I can only think that is a good idea. Much easier to inspect the pad thickness too.
I found rear calipers quite thin on the ground, most advertised were overseas and the one I bought looked rough and needed a full overhaul. I won't be commuting anymore so it shouldn't be an issue now hopefully.
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