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Like a prostitute to her favourite street corner...
 
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Reprogrammed my completely stock SC with DKN tune. Was not looking for more TQ/HP but more fine tuning some drivability issues mainly low speed city on/off throttle riding. Impressed after a short testride today, weather not allowing any long rides here in Sweden. Low throttle snappiness clearly improved but the best thing is the smoothness and willingness of the engine now. Rev limiter also at 7400 and it revs willingly all way up (on lower gears). Also feels smoother on normal midrev riding. Recommended.
///TRS
 

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By the way i had a strange thing in the reprogramming process. Ctek charger on and headlight fuse off. After some hassle with deleting and reloading TuneEcu app on phone (Nokia 8 Sirocco) i managed to download the DKN tune.
Thought to do the fan + 12 minutes learning but when pushing starter button nothing happens, no solenoid click or cranking. Looked for all connections and looked OK so i thought i messed up the software and decided to call it a day, go in and cry. Put back the headlight fuse and decided to test start one more time. It started directly! Just to test again took the fuse of and nothing. It is a 2300km:s bike with LED flashers as only electrical mod and those were done by me. So it looks that, maybe due to legal reasons, the bike is not meant to start if the fuse is off/broken.
///TRS
 

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By the way i had a strange thing in the reprogramming process. Ctek charger on and headlight fuse off. After some hassle with deleting and reloading TuneEcu app on phone (Nokia 8 Sirocco) i managed to download the DKN tune.
Thought to do the fan + 12 minutes learning but when pushing starter button nothing happens, no solenoid click or cranking. Looked for all connections and looked OK so i thought i messed up the software and decided to call it a day, go in and cry. Put back the headlight fuse and decided to test start one more time. It started directly! Just to test again took the fuse of and nothing. It is a 2300km:s bike with LED flashers as only electrical mod and those were done by me. So it looks that, maybe due to legal reasons, the bike is not meant to start if the fuse is off/broken.
///TRS
It will not start with the fuse out, I did the same thing. I guess because of the daytime running light.
 

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IMG_4236.jpg IMG_4238.jpg IMG_4237.jpg IMG_4239.jpg

Took the misses out for a 8 hour long drive (270km) yesterday on some country roads. Stumbled on some locations where the roads had left. Resulting in multiple mud baths.
Think I will give her a nice warm sponge bath now :D
 

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been a busy week, and havent had a chance to proper test ride the wife's T120 since we picked it up last saturday.
the initial complain from her was jerky slow throttle response and heavy steering compare to my SE. I assumed it was due to the bigger rims for less nibbleness.
Did the ECU reset procedure, and took her out
First ride to the morning coffee shop, and I did find the steering to be heavy on the turns. Went to petrol station to check the tyre.... rear was a little flat.... 30psi instead of 36psi. Pumped her up, and definitely made an improvement to the handling. Cant check the front as the spokes were getting in the way of the air hose... will need to check later.

Throttle response is smoother compare to the quick ride I had previously. After the reset it did help a little, but defintely rain mode made it smoother in residential areas. (how to change mode on the move... it just blinks, unless I clutch in) Not ideal, but helps... makes the bike slightly sluggish.

bike is great once you get on to the open road... The booster plug should be arriving today.
 

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Had my third, yes, third ride on my 2016 Street Twin. Think I have now done 150km so far. Bike is an import from Japan with 3300km on the odo.... I have adjusted the crappy mirrors as best I can and lubed the chain. As for the rider, well he is benefiting from some stretching exercises before riding.
 

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Same would apply, but cams spin that fast that over a half hour period its all said and done for the most part. In a water cooled twin the torque comes in low so there’s not much need to hit redline at every change so a normal ride with as little idling as possible is all that’s needed. the good part about this is a windy back road is ideal. No traffic lights to stop and idle and nice twisty corners to get on and pff the throttle, back through the gears to vary the revs.
Should clarify - by "welly" I meant deeep in the red zone 😈 Did 1,000km of "civilized" riding on those twisty back roads first...(definitely no idling ;-).
 

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Good point - I'm going to tape a spare under the seat right now.

Funny, though - it will start with a blown headlight bulb, but not the fuse...
That fuse powers the headlight mini relay which when engaged feeds the starter relay. Power still energises both relays with the fuse in even with the headlight out. but no fuse and the starter relay is has no power.
 

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Well... installed the booster plug....
Yeap does smooth out the low speed "about to stall" sensation so don't need to use the throttle as much so less twitching.

But the twitch is still there.

Not 100% but should be better for the wife.
 

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But the twitch is still there.
Not 100% but should be better for the wife.
Your SE has a 360 degree crank and the T120 has a 270. Wonder whether that's all you're feeling...
 

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Your SE has a 360 degree crank and the T120 has a 270. Wonder whether that's all you're feeling...
I say its the fly by wire throttle.... on/off switch feel to it


Just installed the dresser bars... and damn its a PIA to remove those bolts... felt like I had a heart attack breaking it (without a breaker bar)

I had to sacrifice a broom for its metal pole
 

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The t120 has 1"
I have seen someone mention the spacers before but can't understand how it would help
 
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