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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm a little confused about an electrical situation that I seem to be having on my Daytona. The battery dies when I ride it but then it recharges on the tender and seems to work fine.

Tonight, I tried to test it but ran into some problems. I'll admit that the tester I was using was an older one that perhaps isn't the most accurate but it's all I had. It's one of the older ones that has settings for 15V, 150V, etc but when I tried to use it in the 15V setting, it pegged the needle.

So, I put it on 150V and got a partial reading but the funny thing was that I got the same reading when the bike was off and when it was running. Even stranger is that when I plugged in my battery tender, it still gave the same reading.

The battery recharges every time and the bike starts great after the battery recharges, so I don't think the battery is the issue.

What do you guys think? Is my stator fried?
 

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fivehundo, Somewhere around here DEcosse wrote a pretty good procedure for testing battery charging problems. It does sound like a stator problem to me, but the voltage regulator/rectifier also needs to be tested.

Brad
 

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Sounds like your charging system is shot - could be something as simple as the fuse, but more than likely bad R/R or stator.

Look here for a diagnostic procedure

Battery should not be reading > 15V - that would indicate a bad regulator if your bike was producing in excess of that but if you're getting that after charging from your battery charger, throw that charger away & get a new one!
You still have a problem with your bikes charging system if it is draining battery while running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay, I got a better multimeter and went to testing tonight...

I checked both 30A slot fuses in my fusebox and they both looked good...

I tested the battery and it never got above 13V with the engine running. I disconnected the stator from the R/R and didn't get any resistance from the R/R, which I thought was really strange... :confused:

(more to come on that)

Confused by that result, I moved on. I started the bike and saw about 30.X - 31.X AC volts from each of the leads. I reved the bike up to about 5,000 and saw about 70V. It's looking like the stator is good... Right? :confused:

Now, back to the R/R: Like I said, the new digital multimeter I bought didn't issue a resistance reading. I didn't think that seemed reasonable, so I got my older (analog) multimeter and when I tried to check resistance, it pegged the needle on that meter...

I'm guessing that's my problem; a faulty R/R... Seem logical?
 

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I tested the battery and it never got above 13V with the engine running. ...
That is NOT good.
My first instinct would be that typically this suggests a bad phase on the stator.

Confused by that result, I moved on. I started the bike and saw about 30.X - 31.X AC volts from each of the leads. I reved the bike up to about 5,000 and saw about 70V. It's looking like the stator is good... Right? :confused:
Need to be more specific - is this on all three possible readings?
1-2, 2-3 and 3-1?
Please report for both idle & 5K (or even 3500 is fine) for ALL three - this is critical measurement, must get all three permuations of the three pins
( does not matter which pin is red lead and which is black i.e. 1-3 = 3-1)

I disconnected the stator from the R/R and didn't get any resistance from the R/R, which I thought was really strange... :confused:
....
Now, back to the R/R: Like I said, the new digital multimeter I bought didn't issue a resistance reading. I didn't think that seemed reasonable, so I got my older (analog) multimeter and when I tried to check resistance, it pegged the needle on that meter......
Need more info - you're not saying what you are measuring between - also sounds like you get needle pegged with one meter and nothing with other - with the anaolog meter it really depend on which scale you are on.
It also makes a significant difference of the polarity of the test leads when measuring the R/R.
Is there a diode (like an arrow symbol) setting on the DMM?
Use that.
Note that when you check from each stator pin to the red, then the black of the output, depending on the polarity of the test leads, it will conduct in one direction but not in the other. So even with your analog meter, when you think it is short, reverse the test leads & check again.
With the DMM on diode setting, it will read ~ 0.6V across each junction (one stator input to either red or black output) in ONE direction of test leads and open on the other bias.
Note that the bias from each stator pin to red or black output will be opposite.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Need to be more specific - is this on all three possible readings?
1-2, 2-3 and 3-1?
Yes, all combinations had approximately 30-31 AC Volts at idle and approximately 70 AC Volts at 5000 RPMs

Need more info - you're not saying what you are measuring between - also sounds like you get needle pegged with one meter and nothing with other - with the anaolog meter it really depend on which scale you are on.
That meter is only and only has one option to test resistance: RX1K (ohms) and the needle pegged all the way to the right.



It also makes a significant difference of the polarity of the test leads when measuring the R/R.
Is there a diode (like an arrow symbol) setting on the DMM?
Use that.
Note that when you check from each stator pin to the red, then the black of the output, depending on the polarity of the test leads, it will conduct in one direction but not in the other. So even with your analog meter, when you think it is short, reverse the test leads & check again.
With the DMM on diode setting, it will read ~ 0.6V across each junction (one stator input to either red or black output) in ONE direction of test leads and open on the other bias.
Note that the bias from each stator pin to red or black output will be opposite.
I tried both leads on all combinations of the pins. The digital readout on the new multimeter never said anything other than "1" and the needle on the old multimeter was either inactive or pegged all the way to the right during every attempt....
 

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I'm trying to help but you need to be more specific.
Please write down the result of each test as you do it.
Yes, all combinations had approximately 30-31 AC Volts at idle and approximately 70 AC Volts at 5000 RPMs
Please give the exact measurements for
idle
pin1-pin2
pin2-pin3
pin3-pin1
5K
pin1-pin2
pin2-pin3
pin3-pin1

That meter is only and only has one option to test resistance: RX1K (ohms) and the needle pegged all the way to the right.
You're still not saying where you are measuring between to get that reading.
When you short the test leads together does it read zero or completely off scale (pegged)?
There should be a cal adjust to set it to zero when the leads are shorted together.

...the needle on the old multimeter was either inactive or pegged all the way to the right during every attempt....
Again, you're being too general and non-specific

Read & report the following - use either meter but if the analog, 'zero' it as described above, first.

Red Test Lead ......... Black Test Lead
Stator plug pin 1 ....... Output Plug Red
Stator plug pin 1 ....... Output Plug Black
Stator plug pin 2 ....... Output Plug Red
Stator plug pin 2 ....... Output Plug Black
Stator plug pin 3 ....... Output Plug Red
Stator plug pin 3 ....... Output Plug Black

Output Plug Red...........Stator plug pin 1
Output Plug Black.........Stator plug pin 1
Output Plug Red...........Stator plug pin 2
Output Plug Black ........Stator plug pin 2
Output Plug Red...........Stator plug pin 3
Output Plug Black ........Stator plug pin 3

Output Plug Red...........Output Plug Black
Output Plug Black.........Output Plug Red
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Here were my voltage readings from the stator while running:

Idle:

Pin1 - Pin2: 31.4
Pin1 - Pin3: 30.8
Pin2 - Pin3: 31.1

3500RPM:
Pin1 - Pin2: 64.6
Pin1 - Pin3: 63.6
Pin2 - Pin3: 63.8

They're all pretty close. I'm guessing this means that the stator is okay, right?


Also, I disconnected the other harness on the R/R and tried checking resistance from end-to-end. Here's what I got:

Pin1 (the pin of the 3 in the harness that is perpendicular to the other two) had a resistance of .09 ohms when checked against either black wire on the other harness (with 4 pins).

Neither pins 2 or 3 in the harness that connects to the stator had any reading with any other wires on the other harness, nor did they have any readings when checked against each other. They also had no reaction when compared to Pin1.

I'm guessing by the lack of resistance that the R/R is my fault...
 

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....
Pin1 (the pin of the 3 in the harness that is perpendicular to the other two) had a resistance of .09 ohms when checked against either black wire on the other harness (with 4 pins).
That is short - even when you reverse the test leads, reads same presumably - this is the primary problem, shorted diode on that leg

Neither pins 2 or 3 in the harness that connects to the stator had any reading with any other wires on the other harness......
This one is kinda moot given the short on the pin one diode, but you should read in one direction and not the other
i.e pin 2 to black should be open with test leads one way round and then conduct (not short though) the other way round.
Same sequence for pin 3;
then 2 & 3 should also behave similarly when compared to the red wires, except this time the polarity of the leads should be reversed from the conductance vs open results of the black wire.

So yes, looks like bad R/R.
With a shorted R/R diode, that can often take a toll on the stator as it has to deliver into a dead short, but at least the numbers look good for now. Also take a good look at the wiring especially at that stator to R/R plug - again, because of the dead short that will potentially have 'cooked'

Replacing the R/R - see my sticky thread in the Sprint forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all your help, Ken!!!

Much appreciated!!!
 
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