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You are likely in a similar situation as me with my '12 Bonnie SE. While my original battery showed a good voltage while resting, it has only 87 CCA of the rated 180 CCA available. I was able to get the bike to start with a portable battery jump, which I believe narrowed things down to a weak battery. I have already purchased another Yuasa YTX12-BS and will commission/install it in the spring when the Bonnie comes out of storage. Hopefully, nothing else is the matter, but this forum has considerable posted info on it already to troubleshoot, if needed.
As a follow up, I installed the new Yuasa YTX12-BS yesterday, since it is coming out of storage now. I commissioned the battery by adding the acid pack on 04-Mar and it was on a trickle charger for 6 days to ensure that it was fully charged and holding it. I used a Dremel with the wire brush attachment to polish up the wiring connectors to ensure a good connection, as well as, some spray protectant after the install. The bike started right up without any hesitation.

I had the dreaded click when attempting to start last November just before placing into storage. There wasn't much of a discernable warning before going from starting to not starting. It was the original battery and I am pleased to have got seven years out of it.
 

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jazzyj, Is the battery working fine? My 2015 started the click a couple of weeks ago with a 4 year old battery. The battery would charge up, but not hold the charge. So a new Yuasa YTX12-BS is on the way.
As a follow up, I installed the new Yuasa YTX12-BS yesterday, since it is coming out of storage now. I commissioned the battery by adding the acid pack on 04-Mar and it was on a trickle charger for 6 days to ensure that it was fully charged and holding it. I used a Dremel with the wire brush attachment to polish up the wiring connectors to ensure a good connection, as well as, some spray protectant after the install. The bike started right up without any hesitation.

I had the dreaded click when attempting to start last November just before placing into storage. There wasn't much of a discernable warning before going from starting to not starting. It was the original battery and I am pleased to have got seven years out of it.
 

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jazzyj, Is the battery working fine? My 2015 started the click a couple of weeks ago with a 4 year old battery. The battery would charge up, but not hold the charge. So a new Yuasa YTX12-BS is on the way.
It sounds like the culprit is your battery, but this 'click' problem has plagued these bikes from the start. So, if you should find that the problem persists with a new battery (properly commissioned), you will find a simple wiring fix that I posted on this thread in post#12. There is more information on the problem and various ways to ease it in post#15.


Incidentally, there is no design fault with the headlamp cutout relay, and no need to drill any holes in the headlamp bucket. Sometimes just using the proper starting procedure and slightly raising the idle speed will fix the problem completely.
 

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Yes, the famous click. I had it before but over came it when I learned to pull the fast idle out half way on a warm engine. Now it was a battery that was below the 12.5 volts needed to start the bike. After a full charge, (13+ volts with charge, 12.8 one hour later) it would keep dropping to below 12.6 a few hours later.
 

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Yes, the famous click. I had it before but over came it when I learned to pull the fast idle out half way on a warm engine. Now it was a battery that was below the 12.5 volts needed to start the bike. After a full charge, (13+ volts with charge, 12.8 one hour later) it would keep dropping to below 12.6 a few hours later.
I know that voltage readings are not really the way to test a battery, but those figures sound fine to me, if you are talking about a battery that is off load. Would it carry on falling below the 12.6 volts? As a parallel, my bike is always on a digital tender when not being ridden and the tender goes into maintenance mode at 12.8 volts. I have a volt meter on the bike, which isn't very accurate but enough to give me some idea about the health of the charging system, and this always reads around 12.6 volts without the charger plugged in. I do this because the keyless ignition has a tiny parasitic drain which would completely flatten the battery within about a week.

I'm saying this because it may be your regulator that needs checking over. The stock ones deteriorate over time and when they finally go down they can cause parasitic drain on the battery. If as you say you are fitting a new battery it might be worthwhile to do some voltage checking on the regulator. Other than that, with a healthy regulator, if the idle speed is too low (as it is from the factory) the battery won't be getting any charge when idling and that will cause a slow battery discharge. Everybody seems to blame the dreaded click on a voltage threshold but there are many things that can cause it.
 

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jazzyj, Is the battery working fine? My 2015 started the click a couple of weeks ago with a 4 year old battery. The battery would charge up, but not hold the charge. So a new Yuasa YTX12-BS is on the way.
Yes, so far the bike is starting up nicely. I am not riding it as much lately, since getting a '19 Speed Twin. The Bonnie remains on a CTEK charger while not in use.
 
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