Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
370 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I already had to take it apart because it was backfiring. I now want to be sure I have it together right this time.

The punch mark on the crankshaft sprocket isn't centered on the tooth but to one side. I am wondering if I have it right this time or am I off by one tooth.

I have the retaining nut removed and some chalk on the marks for visibility.

Thank you
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
601 Posts
Well,

I have the manual for the t140e and for that one it is off by
one by your picture compaired to the manual. The dot on
the crank should be between the two dots on the intermediate
gear.

Pookybear
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
370 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
That's the problem, Pookybear. Thanks by the way

As explained, the mark is to one side so it's either going to be to the one or the other side. I cannot get it to sit right in the middle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
601 Posts
That's the problem, Pookybear. Thanks by the way

As explained, the mark is to one side so it's either going to be to the one or the other side. I cannot get it to sit right in the middle.
Thirdbike,

I would ask to see another crank gear if anyone can come up
with a picture for you. I could be that the one you have the
keyway may have been cut wrong from the factory.

Pookybear
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
370 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
It ran OK before the tear down.
There are now new cams in the bike. I set it over the one notch which is harder to do now as I have installed mushroom tapper adjusters so they can't be backed out fully thus leaving sring tension on the sprocket when aligning
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
I'm going off of a memory from 27 years ago so please bear with me. If you have a custom cam this may not apply......
BUT, once when I had the head off and pulled the timing cover the idler gear just fell out. (yep... stupid me) But the manual gave a specific opening amount, for example, something like the exhaust valve being open by something like .130" at bottom dead center of the exhaust stroke and the intake valves being open by such and such an amount at top dead center. I mounted a magnetic dial indicator stand and used a long tip on it to read directly off of the top of the valve's spring holder. There is only one location of the gear where this will be close to being correct. I remember it WAS a bear to slip that gear by a tooth at a time, I had to hold both camshaft gears in place using screws in the threaded holes.
But if you have opening data from a manual and your cam is a stock set-up then you can set them this way regardless of where the marks are. My bike fired up and ran smooth on the second kick after that rebuild.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
Thirdbike...You can see the keyway on your pinion gear and it is lined up correctly with the idler wheel. The dot was just not marked correctly. The intake cam gear does look to possibly be on the wrong mark so check that
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top