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Discussion Starter #1
First, I have searched high and low with no results found unfortunately. So, if my questions have been answered already, I apologize.:) I'm doing virtually all of the 12000 checkup that I can myself. I just can't afford the high price of the dealer and I'm not afraid to tackle this myself. I have access to a Speed Triple 1050 manual (I have a Sprint of course!)

First, the Speed Triple lists clearance as: Intake 0.10-0.20 and Exhaust 0.20-0.30 Are these values the same for our Sprint's? I figure it would be.

Next, I have my bike disassembled. The valvetrain has what the manual calls the "ladder" over virtually all the valves. How the heck did you guys check the clearances? Maybe I need to find some very skinny feelers? I'm assuming the ladder needs to stay in place to hold the cams/caps while checking but I sure don't know how I can get feelers by/around/thru the ladder. :brick: Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Kevin
 

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FYI- I believe the Sprint ('02+) has the shims under the buckets whereas the Tiger has them on top until '06.
 

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Kiwi,

kredge is right. the 1050 motors are shim under bucket. you'll need to pull the cams to change clerances.

kevykev,
I haven't actually checked mine to see how to get the clerances but, you should be able to get the feeler gauges in from the outside edge of the head.
 

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I'm no guru Kev, but I've just had my S3 serviced by one. I asked to have all my valve clearances set even (cause I'm fussy), so all shims were replaced. Optimal clearance would seem to be .152mm inlet and .254mm exhuast.

My mechanic provided many pictures of my service, so here are some that might help. I notice he uses special bent feelers for the job. Or perhaps they're just bent?

I hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Ferris! Those are great pics of what I was trying to explain. I guess some angled/bent type feelers are what I need to get. Mine are flat (and maybe too wide also--but don't know for sure). Plus, looking at your pics, I need to move a little more of the wiring looms to get some more room. This may also allow the feelers to go in 'flat'?
 

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I do it just like the third pic above shows. I 've checked min at both 10 and 20 kmiles and they have all been in spec. From 10 to 20k they hardly changed so I'll check again at 35k.

Also to keep from opening the side of the motor so it can be rolled over with a wrench. I just pull the plugs shift it in to 6th and roll it with the rear wheel.
 

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Thanks Ferris! Those are great pics of what I was trying to explain. I guess some angled/bent type feelers are what I need to get. Mine are flat (and maybe too wide also--but don't know for sure). Plus, looking at your pics, I need to move a little more of the wiring looms to get some more room. This may also allow the feelers to go in 'flat'?
No worries Kev! There is some more pics of my 12,000k service in the Speed Triple thread. You may find your rear hub will need attention as apparently they aren't greased well from factory! Mine was dry!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ferris-- yeah I have heard the stories re: the bearings. Something still on my list....:cool: Thanks for the pics again!

3Banger--already pulled the plugs. I'm rotating the engine just like you said. Love seeing how everything works! BTW--so are the specs you used for your clearance check the same as I had listed at the beginning of the thread (thus, are the Speed Triple and the Sprint's range the same for the 1050's)? Just wanting to make sure!:D
Kevin
 

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Yes they are same; Intake 0.10-0.20mm and Exhaust 0.20-0.30. Or 0.004" to 0.008" and 0.008" to 0.012". I believe all 1050's are the same which are the same as the two previous 955i's I've owned. It wouldn't surprise me if all overhead direct acting cam aluminum motorcycle engines had the same clearances.

Also I'm sure you figured out that there is no need to roll each cyclinder to exactly top dead center. I roll the engine over unit one set of cams points away from the bucket and measure those.
 

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Kevykev

Check clearances as per Ferris' pics.

I also concur with Ferris regarding clearances. Try to get them all in the middle of the tolerance band. Triumph usually set them up on the upper end of the tolerance probably to limit the possibility of valves burning out. The problem with this is that you don't get as much valve lift and duration as you would with an engine with less clearance resulting in slightly less horsepower. Most mechanics will only do the bare minimum in terms of changing shims to save themselves work and customers money.

Another thing to watch out for if you have to pull the cams is to double check the timing marks line up particularly after fitting the chain tensioner. I found one of the camshafts jumped a tooth when I was putting mine back together.;)
 

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Also after installing the cams and every thing looks nice and lined up roll the engine over by hand (wrench) nice and slow. You will know right a way if any thing is amiss and can roll it back and recheck the timing. Much better to find an issue this way then the first time you hit the starter!

I've found when installing the chain tensioner the timing marks would shift just a little. So I would then go back and set them up with a small miss alignment the other way. This way when putting in the tensioner the marks would shift into alignment.
 

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Will you let us know if anything was out of spec? Everyone I've talked to about this says they had them checked, but none were out of spec. I'm at 22k on my '05 and I don't have any service records, so I have no idea if the clearances have ever been checked.
 

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Everyone I've talked to about this says they had them checked, but none were out of spec. I'm at 22k on my '05 and I don't have any service records, so I have no idea if the clearances have ever been checked.
I checked mine at 15,000km. 9 of the 12 shims were either on top spec or over. Whilst this will not harm the engine if left, it will make it slightly noisier and will reduce the amount contact time between the valve and camshaft resulting in lesser performance.

The biggest risk you face is if there is insufficient clearance between the valves and cams, your valves may burn resulting poor compression and an expensive repair bill.:eek:

My advice is to get them checked.
 

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Will you let us know if anything was out of spec? Everyone I've talked to about this says they had them checked, but none were out of spec. I'm at 22k on my '05 and I don't have any service records, so I have no idea if the clearances have ever been checked.
I checked mine at 15,000km. 9 of the 12 shims were either on top spec or over. Whilst this will not harm the engine if left, it will make it slightly noisier and will reduce the amount contact time between the valve and camshaft resulting in lesser performance.

The biggest risk you face is if there is insufficient clearance between the valves and cams, your valves may burn resulting poor compression and an expensive repair bill.:eek:

My advice is to get them checked.
I totally agree with ralphus on this one and my mechanic reckons the 20,000km shim check is wrong and should be done sooner!

Mine was checked at 16,637km and 6 clearances were well out of range, 4 just out and 2 in range. All my shims were replaced to get them precise and my next shim check is scheduled for 30,000km. Mine was unusually bad apparently and not the norm, but worth getting it done!
 

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I had mine checked at 12k miles and they were all on the looser side of the spec range ...so I think on my bike I can skip the check at 24k and go until 36k or so before I might have to re-shim them. I would figure by this point I might have a new bike by then.
 
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