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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve done the searches, read the facts, and most all of the opinions. I have one question for all of the team here at Twins Tech Talk:
What is the best clearance in MM or IN for the cam lobs and valve shims on a 900?
 

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What the factory specs it at - whatever that is - I can't remember. Or are you talking big bores and custom cams or something?

I don't think those would make any difference though?

EDIT: if no ones posted the numbers by the time I get home tonight, I'll post them then.
 

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Go by what propforward said factory specs .If keep a check on them and dont put alot of miles between checks run them to the small end of the clearance,they will be quieter there.the wide end of factory clearance will make more fuss but its safer to run longer with out checking them.2 Things can happen that change the clearance
#1 the vave and seat wears and they get tighter,if it gets to tight the exhaust valve wont seat right and may burn.
#2 the cam wears (that happens on some of these bikes)valves will get loose and will click ,its not a good thing but will run along time before it hurts anything.
Do your valve checks with engine cold (let it set over night)
Be very carful if you pull the cam not to drop anything down the cam chain hole(stuff rags in the hole first)make sure the gears are lined up right or you will bend every valve in the motor,buy a book before you try to adj valves.
 

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Inlet 0.15-0.20 mm
Exhaust 0.25-0.30 mm

Its not an easy job if they need adjusting. Just geting the right shims can be a pain unless you know some one in the trade.
:mad:
 

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if you plan on doing any engine work you need to buy both the Haynes and the Triumph Manual. If you only want to buy one, I'd recommend the Triumph Manual. I have both and I prefer the Triumph Manual.
do you get the Triumph factory service manual from the triumph dealer or can you buy it elsewhere? and what sort of price is it?

looking at doing my valves soon. the above links are very good
 

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Get it from your dealer, it is pricey, but it's very good. About 80 or 90 buckeroos (american buckleroos that is) if I remember right.

It's really good to have the Haynes as an additional reference - good photos in it.
 

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do you get the Triumph factory service manual from the triumph dealer or can you buy it elsewhere? and what sort of price is it?

looking at doing my valves soon. the above links are very good
The manual is available at your Triumph dealer; I don't know about any bootleg sources. It's a loose leaf four ring binder and they run about $80.00 USD. They seem expensive at first; but mine has paid for itself several times over.---James.
 

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oh crap!

I must be a mechanical moron, unlike the rest of you guys, I am deathly afraid of even trying to tackle this. I can do some simple mechanical things, and I make honest attempts at most basic maintainance. But, I'm not sure I want to try my hand at this.

I just hit 12K miles today. And guess what? I started hearing clickity clacks from the motor on the way home from work today, it got progressivly worse, but performed just fine. *SIGH*
Out of curiousity, does anyone know what the Triumph dealer is going to charge me for this 12K service?
Should I tow it up there on a trailer. I don't want to damage anything.

Also, I drove with the clatter for about 10 miles (under 50mph.)
Did I hurt anything seriously? If it matters, I use synthetic motor oil.

Thanks.
 

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I have heard figures of 300 bucks for just the valve job, and up to 600 bucks for the whole 12K service. That's at triumph dealers.

However, lindsayt, a buddy of mine, found a good local bike shop who did the valve job only for about 160 bucks or thereabouts, so you might want to scout for recommendations in your area.

This local shop was a bit of a find - they have lots of experience, and have sources for rebuilding wheels and suchlike, as well as tuning and so on. Well worth seeking out recommendations.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Valve clearance that works

I was looking for what works for the experienced. How to check the drag on a feeler gauge and how much less it ticks after a 50 mile ride home from the dealer was good info. I am grateful for the experience and advice of propforward and mikeinva. The shims are available in .05 mm increments which will net .25-.27mm for the exhaust and .15-.18mm for the intake if I follow the “close” recommendation.
I might be new at the marvelous engineering of the British mechanics but AMC and Harley are my background.
I’ll let ya’ll know how it works out.
Beer thirty!
 

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After hearing some engines (on cars) run so quiet that you would think you are in a sensory deprivation tank, I used to worry about the ticks and clicks on my Bonneville. Don't be going about worrying. Your engine will be just fine. It is definitely not going to self-destruct. It will probably get a bit quieter after the shim job but do not be worrying now. Do a search on engine noise and you will feel better. The twin engines are naturally a bit noisy anyway.
Use propforward's link in his post (it is excellent) and get your manuals too like the others have mentioned. Follow the others advice to stuff rags into the cam-chain holes so you are absolutely sure not to drop anything into the engine case. And I'm going to advertise my handy shim calculator spreadsheet available on this post: http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-technical-talk/98571-handy-bonneville-spreadsheets.html
Once you know the spec which are correct for your engine (which may be the same as those already entered in the spreadsheet... or maybe not... look them up for sure) you can measure what you have in either English or metric units and use the handy spreadsheet to find out which ones bring your clearances back to dead center. I thought that the shims were available in .025MM (.001 inch) increments. They ought to be since there is only about ±.002 inch allowance on the clearances. Anyway you can do it. I needed 6 new shims when I did my job and it cost me $60 to do the whole job myself. I needed the hundreds of $ I saved for other things.
Good luck
 
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