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Discussion Starter #1
I was messing around on my Bonnie the other day (see other post about it being DEAD!) and thought that since I didn't need to use the pilot light inside the headlight and was goign to upgrade it anyway at some point to a lamp that didn't have a pilot light, I could tap into it to power my iPhone (please, let's not discuss the merit of motorcycle riding and phone charging here, there are plenty of postings on that...)

I noticed that there were two cables, a black and a yellow coming from the harness. I opened the plastic case of my iphone charger, soldered two wires and used posi-locks to tap into the pilot light cables at which point I blew a fuse, hence the other posting:)

So, can someone tell me the right way to connect this?

white - yellow / red - black or
white - black / red - yellow

also, can the fuse handle both lights or should I take out the pilot light bulb?

Lastly, I noticed that the cables after the connector (coming from the main harness) are different colors as the ones after the connector (going to the bulb holder). So if I wanted to tap into the wires after the connector, which one is the right color combination?

Thanks
 

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Yellow is the positive of the position lamp, connect to the red on your charger, the red as shown in your first photo.

It's posible that fuse number 10 is blown. The charger might have wrong polarity protection that'll cause that.

Wire colour often changes after the last connector to a component, don't know why. Use the main harness colours.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks! You have become my mentor!

Anytime I want to do something, I look at your posts to see your comments/suggestions, etc.

Thanks so much for all of the great contributions!

Interestingly enough, the electrical part of the charger fits in the housing tucked behind the little bracket inside and I was able to route the coiled cable through the little opening that's left between all of those cables in there.

I have a RAM mount for the phone and sine the charger cable is coiled, it works perfectly when connecting the iphone to the cable without fear of pulling the cable too much.

Once I get it to work, I will wrap the whole thing in electrical tape or shrink tube and that way, it will go on/off with the ignition.
 

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Is the Pilot Light on when the main headlight is on? Never looked and can't cause bike is in shop.

I was thinking about doing the same thing (hot wiring up a charger) and this would be the perfect electronic source.
 

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If you have an iPhone then just get one of those
battery cases. That us what I do. Phone stays at 100%
all day. If not an iPhone then get the solar powered
battery's. You can charge from that battery day or night.
Or why not connect straight to the bikes battery. If you run
that battery down then you are talking too much. I have
one iPhone 4 for calls and 2 iPhone 3gs's for Internet. All
have Mophies or other battery packs on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
anything case that I can put on the phone won't fit with the RAM mount. I usually use the gps app on my iphone which uses both Wi-fi and data signal to find coordinates so the battery drains pretty fast if I am doing a 30 minute ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Why not just use the aux power feed that is provided as standard to charge the phone?
I think that it is being used for the battery tender. Also, with the setup that I am trying, I don't have to worry about running the wires underneath the frame/tank. It's a single cable from the back of the bucket right to the handlebar holders in front of it.
 

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Why not just use the aux power feed that is provided as standard to charge the phone?
The aux connector under the tank is always powered, so your gps or whatever will always be on. Even if you physically turn the device off, it will still be charging unless you unplug it.
Connecting to the pilot light means that everything will turn off when you turn off your keys, plus (as Forchetto brilliantly mentioned in a previous post of mine) you can use the device by simply turning your key to the Park position without all the other things on your bike turning on.
 

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You can use the GPS. Make a Blue Tooth call. Listen to Chuck Berry.
Play angry birds. Shop eBay. Read this forum. Check the weather.
That would run the battery down I guess.
 

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I just did the same thing with a USB power connector.
I didn't want to pull the tank and have all that wiring to run and I also didn't want it always powered. The USB voltage converter would always be drawing power even though it doesn't have anything plugged into it. I pulled the headlight and tapped into the bottom pilot light for the 12 volt line so now I'm only powering the USB while the key is on. The USB will only ever pull about 1amp at most so that wire is heavy enough. Plus, the added bonus is that I can get rid of the lump in the cord where the converter is by stuffing it in the headlight bucket.

BTW: for those interested, the adapter I'm using is like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-WeatherProof-Hardwired-USB-Power-Port-phone-Ipod-Charger-2Amp-10W-/221042561201?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337729d0b1&vxp=mtr
And I tested it to see how much power it uses without anything plugged in and that's 5ma.
 

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I think that it is being used for the battery tender. Also, with the setup that I am trying, I don't have to worry about running the wires underneath the frame/tank. It's a single cable from the back of the bucket right to the handlebar holders in front of it.
The aux connector under the tank is always powered, so your gps or whatever will always be on. Even if you physically turn the device off, it will still be charging unless you unplug it.
Connecting to the pilot light means that everything will turn off when you turn off your keys, plus (as Forchetto brilliantly mentioned in a previous post of mine) you can use the device by simply turning your key to the Park position without all the other things on your bike turning on.
Ah ok - good point about key being able to turn the feed off. I was just assuming you'd un-plug the charger cable when you didn't want it connected.
 

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I did mine slightly less elegantly. I bought the USB kit from new bonneville and then bought a fuse box piggy bag and ran the power to the pilot lights. Power is on while the key is on and it was simple enough.
 

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I don't want to open a can of worms here, but it looks like you're planning to only have a two-wire connection (+5 volts and ground) to your iPhone. That's not good enough. You have to set the USB data pins to certain DC voltages to tell the iPhone that it's OK to take a charge from the USB. If you don't, the iPhone won't charge or will only take 100 mA, which isn't enough to run the phone without depleting the battery.

I'm being a bit vague here, because I haven't figured it all out exactly for myself. I do know that if you set both data pins to 2.0 volts, the iPhone will charge. But there may be other voltage combinations that let it charge at a higher rate. Still working on that part.

Just a word of warning, FWIW...
 
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