[d3v1c3]

I have received my USB charging pod from newbonneville the other day. Everything mounted well and I am trying to sort out the wiring now. Obviously the black terminal will attach to the battery. The red is what I am having trouble with. I found the loom that comes off of my power switch and I am trying to figure out which wire to splice it with. The less obvious wire colors are as follows; red and white, red and black, read and yellow and lastly solid red. I am thinking the solid red would be the likely candidate but I cannot be sure as I do not have a wiring manual handy. Has anyone installed one of these with any advice for me?

 

[Forchetto]

No need to go to all the trouble of running a wire to the battery. That unit has a low power consumption and it can be connected to something like the position or parking lamp inside the headlamp.

This is switched and fused. Connect the Red wire (+) of the USB unit to the yellow wire of the lamp, the black (-) to the black. The wire colours sometimes change so if you have a multimeter you can check the polarity.

You can tap into the existing wires using a couple of quick-splice Scotchlok connectors:

Video of how to use them here:

 

[Rock2D2]

Device,

I bought the same unit, but for the power I used a fuse piggy back from the light. Now I have a 3amp fuse in line with the USB unit.

The USB unit has a blue led that is on when power is on so you probably don't want to run it straight to the battery.

 

[Rock2D2]

Device,

I bought the same unit, but for the power I used a fuse piggy back from the light. Now I have a 3amp fuse in line with the USB unit.

The USB unit has a blue led that is on when power is on so you probably don't want to run it straight to the battery.

Edit

Similar to this setup


I did find it a little large for the fuse box, but I used a file to notch out the fuse box lid.

 

[d3v1c3]

Device,

I bought the same unit, but for the power I used a fuse piggy back from the light. Now I have a 3amp fuse in line with the USB unit.

The USB unit has a blue led that is on when power is on so you probably don't want to run it straight to the battery.

I do not have a 3amp fuse in my fuse box. It appears that the lamp on mine is a 10amp. This is a confusing set up as I am not sure if the original fuse is omitted in this configuration. Does the original lamp fuse stay in the retainer? I think I can see how it works from the picture you posted. Does the fuse on the bottom function for the original purpose, and the fuse on the top operate the newly installed accessory? Thanks for all the help. I think I like this method better as I do not have to do any wire loom sheath cutting and re taping.

 

[Rock2D2]

I do not have a 3amp fuse in my fuse box. It appears that the lamp on mine is a 10amp. This is a confusing set up as I am not sure if the original fuse is omitted in this configuration. Does the original lamp fuse stay in the retainer? I think I can see how it works from the picture you posted. Does the fuse on the bottom function for the original purpose, and the fuse on the top operate the newly installed accessory? Thanks for all the help. I think I like this method better as I do not have to do any wire loom sheath cutting and re taping.

The 3amp fuse is one I added. I piggy backed it off of the 10 amp lamp fuse. The original fuse is retained, just relocated. The 3amp fuse is then put in line to protect the amp going to the usb box.

It's football day, I'll try to take a photo of my setup later on.

This is a pic of the unit I used. The bottom slot is for the existing fuse (the 10A in my case). The top slot is for one you want to add, up to 10A. The red wire connects to the red on the USB block.

Hope that helped!

 

[d3v1c3]

I found the add-a-circuit at autozone. Works great except the fitting of the fuse box cover. I never ride in the rain so I am not worried about it for the time being, but I will end up having to fabricate a new box cover from aluminum. I'll probably get it powder coated when I do my headlight assy. Thanks for all the great help guys.

 

[Rock2D2]

Like I said I notched mine with a file and put a seal of electrical tape around it. I figure that will keep out as many elements as the per modded box.

 

[open1mind]

is it me, or is this thing a much better plan? I am going to give it a try, since I already have the battery tender connector on the bike now. I will manage my expectations since I am almost always disappointed in aftermarket electrical stuff, but here goes...
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VFFQRE/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=[/ame]

 

[GySchmit]

is it me, or is this thing a much better plan?

I'm going to go with one of these Mini USB Direct to Battery Harness
PPC-015-SC (Short Cable) (with minor change) and tie it into the parking light in my headlight housing. I like this set up better as everything is self contained (i.e. fuse, converter and USB all in one cord. No need for extra cords/connections)

Probably going to call them and have them make me one up with a 90 degree mini usb end.

My phone is mounted to a RAM Aqua Box Pro mounted on my upper Triple Tree. I think using the PPC-015 with 90 degree USB would be perfect as it will be very unobtrusive and I can run it into the Aqua Box.

 

[zenbike]

The all in one power let options are nice, worked great for me. But you might want to consider a standard USB plug vs the mini USB. That way you can plug anything into your new outlet.


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app

 

[Baltobonneville]

My "parking light" is unused due to headlight replacement, and the light socket was attached to a few inches of wiring which was attached to a little plug/receptacle in the headlight bucket.

If I were doing it (I'm not), I'd cut off the light socket from its plug, solder the new wires to the leads from the plug, and plug it back in. Clean, easy, and easy to remove.