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Discussion Starter #1
The OEM Triumph igniter on my 2001 Adventurer started dropping cylinder #3.
I purchased an Ignitech igniter and installed it.
The Ignitech igniter will randomly shut off the ignition completely, requiring a key cycle (off then back on) to get going again. Sometimes I can go for ten miles and sometimes it will do it a few times in a single mile.
I can unplug the Ignitech and plug the Triumph igniter back in and only #3 will drop out but never will shut off the complete ignition. Eventually #3 kicks back in and will keep running.
Ignitech started working with me and suggested lack of resistor spark plugs, over-charging issue or possibly secondary RF interference.
I pulled out the original resistor plugs and changed to new.
I do occasionally see up to 15V on charging but mostly 14.2 - 14.5V max. I checked battery electrolyte level in my maint. free Yuasa and found it was almost half gone. Refilled as necessary. Same issue.
I wrapped the complete Ignitech unit in aluminum foil to get rid of the possibility of secondary RF. Even grounded the foil....same issue.
Ignitech asked me to download new software to counter possible over voltage. No change.
Ignitech sent me a replacement igniter - same issue.
Remember.....all I have to do is plug in the old Triumph igniter and keep going on either 2 or 3 cylinders and never have the engine ignition shut off.
What blows a hole in the over voltage or over charging issue is that sometimes the Ignitech unit will shut off just a few seconds after an engine start. No over voltage in that short time as the batter hasn't even had a chance to to recover from a 3-4 second cranking to start cycle and the engine is at idle RPM with minimal charging output.

I have done quite a bit of searching and did find one thread or addition to a thread where a fellow had the same issue but never read a resolution to it.
Any ideas will be appreciated.
 

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I do occasionally see up to 15V on charging but mostly 14.2 - 14.5V max. I checked battery electrolyte level in my maint. free Yuasa and found it was almost half gone.
Maybe it's what you don't see that's causing the problem. 15 volts is too high. If it's occasionally 15, who's to say it isn't occcasionally 18 or 20? Dry batteries are a sure sign of overcharging. I wouldn't waste time working on the ignition system until you figure out the charging problems.

Make sure your battery and alternator connections are good and clean. Make sure the switched power to the alternator is reliable as it is the reference voltage for the regulator.

When you serviced the battery did you put anything other than distilled water in it?

The over voltage may be causing the problems with both ignitors. Pick one to sacrifice and stick with it until you solve the voltage problem. Personaly, I think I'd use the OEM one until I got the voltage sorted.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Distilled only.
As outlined in my original post the Ignitech will occasionally shut off the ignition within seconds of initial start. This is a scenario where the battery voltage would be low as well as the alternator output as the engine is at a dead idle. Well below the occasional higher voltage I mentioned.
Have not checked alternator output since I serviced the battery. Should be lower than previously mentioned.
When perusing this issue it seems like our bikes are very prone to higher than normal alternator output and electrolyte loss in the batteries.
 

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They have a tendency to have higher than normal charging voltage however I have never had an AGM battery lose electrolyte. Do you have a voltage monitor to measure voltage while you ride?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Chasing the shut-down issue more than a possible overcharging issue but will change out the VR on the alt. if parts are available just to keep the water in the battery! I don't expect much life out of the battery anyway since it was run with semi-dry plates so I will probably replace it.

With the ignitech, cold or hot, it may shut down seconds after engine start, when the engine is at a dead idle and the battery has not had a chance to recover from the start event. Dead idle also means minimal alternator output. Well below the occasional peak I have seen. In this scenario the Ignitech would be seeing nothing more that mid 13V give or take at best until the battery recovers. The Triumph igniter will not shut down the engine, just #3 cylinder which is why I went with the Ignitech replacement in the first place.
 

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when the engine is at a dead idle and the battery has not had a chance to recover from the start event. Dead idle also means minimal alternator output....In this scenario the Ignitech would be seeing nothing more that mid 13V give or take at best until the battery recovers.
Have you verified this, or is it just theory? In theory, it makes sense, but in practice there are scenarios where the voltage output of the alternator could be significantly higher than the battery voltage. I don't think the voltage regulator is usually the problem; I think it's a difference in voltage before and after the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I can understand that WSC. I take my readings directly off the battery from a dedicated charge plug.
What lends to your comment is that when I hook up the Ignitech to the laptop, start the engine and read voltage on the screen it will read around 14.2V when my meter will read around 14.8 at the battery. Obviously it is taking it's reading off the switched power lead vs. where I take mine. Are the contacts in the switch assembly able to be cleaned? Not opposed to doing that. Just did the switch in the Valkyrie and managed to not even lose that tiny little spring!
 

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De-Oxit works great for cleaning contacts which it is designed to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
WSC - no I do not have a reading when it stalls. Usually I am running 45-55 mph when it shuts off. Not difficult to get one though.
Will get a reading just after starting tomorrow morning as well. That one should be a pretty low reading.
 

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have you checked the ing switch it sounds like the power to the ing box is cutting of ing switches on legends are prone to corroded connections the ing box needs 12v att all times i ran mine through a relay if its not getting the volts it needs it will cut the bike dead i believe the original ing box is less fussy about the voltage needed to keep going i do not believe you have an overcharge problem much more likely a no voltage problem try feeding the ing box straight from the battery to eliminate an ing switch problem
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Went to get the reading this morning.........Hooked up the voltmeter and read a whopping 12.07V !!! Battery deader than a doornail. Touched the starter for the heck of it and it finished killing it. Mentioned this in Post #5. Never have seen a battery last very long if run for a while without much electrolyte in it.
New battery on order then back to work on this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
New battery came in and installed today.
Will start back on this tomorrow again.
For those who have considered Motobatt batteries I have a really cool aftermarket terminal to share that takes the place of the crappy OEM Motobatt ones. Separate thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
STill doing it but instead of nothing but complete shut-downs requiring a key cycle to re-start it has started shutting off then the ignition will come back by itself usually within a second or two. So, now it is doing both.
On a side note on the charging system. After a 28 mile ride I left it running in the driveway and got my meter out. With the meter hooked directly to the battery and the engine running at a steady 3500 RPM for up to a minute or so the voltage never ventured above 14.83-14.84V Steady as a rock in that range.
 

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14.8 volts is too high, especially for an AGM battery. Even a lead acid battery should be limited to about 14.4 volts. Measure the voltage on the supply side of fuse #1. That is the voltage the alternator should be keying off of. If it is lower than the battery voltage, that's where your charging problem stems from. The most likely cause is resistance in the ignition switch. Jump from the battery positive to fuse #1 and see what happens.

Don't know if it will cure your ignition problems, but your battery will last a lot longer.

[Edit] Spec for the regulator is 14.5 volts at 5500 RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
True.....it is the ignition issue I want taken care of.
However that is one issue I need to eliminate in the troubleshooting process. Why the OEM igniter never does this is beyond me...only the Ignitech units.
Now....I have priced voltage regulators and they are $148 !! Anyone know where a better deal is?
I have looked at the aftermarket IC units which are interesting but they advertise a higher charge rate. (14.8V)
Also for reference the Motobatt site lists charge rates up to 14.9V as safe. If you want to double check it is in the questions and answers section.
 

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Pappy
I also read that the charging rate of AGM's is 14.8v, however if I remember correctly the alt on my bike puts out 14.2 v.
Is your igniter a 10 pin or 18 pin?
 
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