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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I put 15-40 in my Daytona when it was supposed to be 15-50. My bike was running hotter that day so I that night I suspected something with oil because I knew for a fact it wasn't on the coolant side. Drained my oil and this is what I have found. What damage has been done
 

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Well, I doubt the oil would cause that to happen...not just a difference in oil weight that small.

You write the bike was running hotter....do you know roughly what temp. it was "putting out" (bad turn of phrase)...?
 

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I'm assuming the second picture is what you drained out of the radiator? Possibly jumping the gun, but it looks like your oil cooler seal has gone. located behind the oil filter, you will see coolant lines going to it. Check out BikeBandit.com for parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
And I was running 175 cruising speed and 180-210 in town on hot days, normally I'd be at 168 cruising speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does the seal go out internally where I'll need a new oil cooler entirely? Or just the little gasket o ring deal
 

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I'm not sure about these engines but I know some of the Kawasaki engines mix oil and water when the water pump seal fails, maybe someone could add to that.
 

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Yes....it looks fine. I seem to remember doing mine too just to be sure, but it really didn't need it....I just figured with the whole bike being a pile of Lego bricks why not. Even the lass at the dealer knew enough to tell me it'd be OK, but for the sake of $3.00 it's almost a given to do it.

OR....pull the whole thing apart again in a few months. Because it's fun.
 

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Now you don't wast much time!

Was it stemming out the exhaust? I remember the last head gasket I did(in a car) it was smoking thick white smoke and the carbon build up on the plug and cylinder that had failed was allot less than the other three cylinders.

I'm not sure you will see much from pressure testing as the leak tends to open as the engine gets warn.


Also it's hard to tell if a seal has failed by looking at it, I had a vr6 and that had seals that looked great but didn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Ok here is where I'm at, after removing the camshaft cover here is what I'm finding...=( I'm unsure of what the circular machined flat surface is technically called? Freeze plugs? Anyway if you look 2 out of 3 of them are cracked and have some oil/coolant in them. What now? This is a very inconvenient time in my life for this type of stuff to go down >=( fixing this bike is about to put me into one hell of a financial pickle. I'm ready to do the labor, I'll make another thread with how i did what i did and how i got there when it's fixed.
 

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its been a while since I've been under the cam cover.

I do remember those "allen-head" bolts aren't freeze plugs. They are plugs to seal the coolant channel over top of the combustion chambers. They really aren't supposed to come out. The used head I picked up was missing them and could not get them out of my damaged head. luckily the guy I bought the head from still had them lying around. Triumph does NOT sell them (unless you buy a ne head too.

The TORX bolts are the cylinder head bolts.

The machined spots with holes in them are drains for the oil to return to the sump.

I'm leaning towards the head gasket or heat exchanger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So is there any repair for those machines spots with holes in them? That wouldn't cause coolant in the oil then if it's only a drain no? I'll be getting around to doing a compression test to see for sure if it's a head gasket
 

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So is there any repair for those machines spots with holes in them? That wouldn't cause coolant in the oil then if it's only a drain no?

There is no repairing them. if they were plugged, the cam area would be full off oil instead of the sump. they're there to drain oil away from that area.

Put the heat exchanger back on the bike and top off the coolant. Pull a pressure test on the cooling system, that should show where its leaking.
 
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