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Discussion Starter #1
There has been some chatter on the Chassis list about running spoked wheels tubelss using the rim tape used currently on tubeless, and a tubeless valve stem. Tony Foale commented that he had used this set-up, but warned that one should use it on a MT type rim, not a WM rim, owing to the differences in the bead seat area of the two rims.
Anyone use this set-up on their wire wheel Bonnie or Thruxton? Anyone know offhand if the Bonnie and Thruxton use a WM style or MT style rim?
Not asking permission, only information and experience : )
thanks muchly!
-Armen
 

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I've used a few different tubeless concepts on spoked wheels, rim tape being one of them. Rim tape (we are talking adhesive tape right?) works 100%, but it is important to lock down the tag end of the tape under the valve (bolt it down so to speak), if not the tag end could lift and the centrifugal effect will then peel the rest of the tape off completely. With MT and WM style rims I'm assuming you are referring to whether the rim has a safety bead (lip) or not, my Thruxton has a safety bead at the back but not at the front, both styles can be made tubeless but obviously a safety bead is much preferred.
 

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One problem seems to be that even if you can seal the spoke holes with tape or a mastic compound, you need to check that the front wheel has a lip that grips a tubeless tyre and seals it to the rim, as on most rear wheel rims. Otherwise you may not get a good seal and there may be a possibility that the tyre could deflate and come off the rim at speed.
 

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on my other bike a 2006 sportster i got a set of 18" americanwirewheel.com sealed for 3 yrs now, many other harley guys have done similar, it looks like a type of silicone in the center that has set to a firm rubbery consistency, i only see harley rims on their site but a phone call won't hurt
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Rim tape

The stuff I am talking about is what the bicycle folks use to run tubeless. I was in a bicycle shop last week and saw a mountain bike in the window that said 'tubeless'. I want in and asked what the scoop was. They sell a kit with tape, flat sealant goop, and a tubeless valve stem. And the tape is available in different widths.
Looks interesting. Have to see if the aluminum rims on a Thruxton use the right style rim for this.
 

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I run my mtn bike tubeless, I love it!!

I also don't go screaming down the highway at 90 mph on it either....


Sent from my iPad using Motorcycle
 

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Ok, I'm assuming it's adhesive tape then. Like I said, just make sure the tag end is locked down, The centrifugal effect is much stronger compared to bicycle speeds. A lot of guys with the silicone-and-duct-tape system have found the duct tape as a loose ball inside the wheel when changing the tyre, in most cases the silicone kept sealing just fine on its own, but a loose ball of duct tape inside a wheel can't possibly be a good thing.

Yes, the little lips on the rim's bead area is what I refer to as 'safety beads', like I said before, the Thruxton's rear rim has them, the front does not. However, I've been running tubeless on both front and rear for over a year now without any problems (I was also told at the time that the front will not work for tubeless). The idea is that if the tyre loses pressure, the little lip will still keep it in position on the rim, this theory however is valid for both tubeless and tubed systems. One possible problem specific to tubeless that I can imagine is hitting a pot hole (or similar) and momentarily shifting the tyre bead off its seat, losing air, the bicycle guys refer to this as 'burping'. Usually the bead instantly pops back and just a bit of pressure is lost, but this might not be the case every time. That little safety lip will certainly help greatly in this regard.

My Thruxton front rim, no safety bead, tubeless:
 

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big burps

So Grub, have you hit any big potholes at speed? I'm thinking about trying this out...
but I think I'll have nightmares about blowouts at 96mph on that front wheel when the sidewall slips
 

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Nate, I've hit a couple of medium potholes (one on a fast corner) and all has been fine, but I can imagine with a certain hole at a certain speed/angle instant deflation is a possibility. Still, I wouldn't call it likely, bit of a calculated risk like most things, and it's not as if tubes are bombproof either. You'll have to decide for yourself, I'm not going to encourage you but I'll certainly share what I've learnt.
 

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Nate, I've hit a couple of medium potholes (one on a fast corner) and all has been fine, but I can imagine with a certain hole at a certain speed/angle instant deflation is a possibility. Still, I wouldn't call it likely, bit of a calculated risk like most things, and it's not as if tubes are bombproof either. You'll have to decide for yourself, I'm not going to encourage you but I'll certainly share what I've learnt.
A good friend and one of the better riders in the North Georgia area purchased a new gen Thruxton R and he was telling me a little about converting his T to Tubeless using some kind of industrial tape and tubeless valve stem . I am most anxious to learn if the rims on the new Street Scrambler would have the necessary section with bead mentioned above. My understanding is that bead is critical and this fellow wears out his tires on the sides as he lives in the mountains and rides exclusively in the twisties . So far he has worn out 3 or 4 sets (claims to get no more than 3000 miles on a set due to side wear) and has had no leaks or failure.

Personally I don't get why all the manufacturers have not gone tubeless and at least offered the mag wheel option on all the twins not just the Street Twin and cup model with their less than ideal 18'' front wheel size. But that's just me.
 
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