[MikeF]

Hi guys

I have an 01 TT600 which I bought in January. It was in a bit of a state and I am slowly getting it back up to scratch.

It seems to me that the previous owner has had the front end in pieces and the wiring around the headstock doesnt seem right. Particularly the wiring /connection to the speedo pickup of the left hand side (the connection is just visible and hanging in mid air), the front indicator connectors, and also a multiplug (if I recall correctly the cable which connects to this plug comes from the ignition key switch) which sits on the top of the right hand side of the radiator. The multiplug moves and rubs on the radiator every time the handlebars are turned, which can't be good.

Ciould anyone please be able to explain or let me have a couple of photos to show where these cables should be routed?

Many thanks for any assistance offered.

Cheers

Mike

 

[J. Max]

I'd have to take a look at my TT to tell for sure, but none of my wires rub the radiator, I'd just zip tie it up somewhere out of the way.

 

[MikeF]

Thanks Max

Would it be possible to send me a photo showing where the speedo cable connector near the top yoke is positioned please? The connector just hangs in mid air in full view on my bike, which just doesnt look right...

Cheers

Mike

 

[J. Max]

Hey Mike, let me know if you can't see these:

The first photo is looking straight on at the wire by the left fork (from the saddle). The second is a top view. The gray connector is I believe the speedometer connector. On my TT, the cable goes past the brake caliper up to a plastic piece that holds it and the front brake line. It then goes to the left fork right under the lower yoke clamp. It twists around that towards the engine then goes through a plastic... loom holder?? then ends at the gray connector visible in the second picture, that then goes up to the gauge.

Now reread each sentence above, but this time ending in, "I think..."

That's how mine is, hope this helps!

By the way, ignore the big black wire box in the bottom middle of the first picture... that's aftermarket HID headlight scrap that doesn't work like it should!

 

[MikeF]

Hi Max
Thanks so much for the photos. I'll have a look at them again tonight and compare them with my bike when i get home from work. I'll let you know how i get on.
Thanks again.
Mike

 

[MikeF]

Hi Max

After a long delay, I took a week off work last week to do xmas shopping etc and also got round to doing some bits and pieces on my bike. I found a couple of badly leaking vaccum hoses, so hopefully sorting those will make a difference.

I also took some photos of the cable routing to the white speedo sensor connector and the 2 black multiplugs which sit on top of/behind the radiator. The latter certainly don't look right and they seem to be rubbing on the frame when the bars are turned.

If you or anyone else can suggest how they should be routed, that would be a massive help.

Cheers

Mike

 

[J. Max]

Hey Mike, I will take a look at where my connectors are again and let you know if steering operation affects them. Where they are now seems wrong being so close to the fan there. I need to clean my K&N air filter anyway! Maybe whoever wired that gear indicator altered the routing?

 

[MikeF]

Hey Max
I installed the gear indicator, so i hope not!
Thanks, that would be great.
Just got the bike back togehter this afternoon with 2 new vacuum hoses and a new centrifugal breather/oil seal. Was hoping it would be a massive improvement but having reset the TPS, the revs are fluctuating at idle more than they were before I started.. (
Cheers
Mike

 

[Speed4Boy]

Hi Mike,
Nice to see another Triumph in the area.

I live near Catterick Garrison and ride a Speed 4.

I have had a 'fuse blowing' problem, which I am going to investigate once the bike is MOT'd. I think it stems from the same wiring you are talking about rubbing on the radiator.

 

[MikeF]

Hi Speed4boy

Likewise, thanks for the post. I live near Corbridge.

My wiring in that location looks distinctly like its not how it was intended (the wiring seems twisted and like tis not sitting properly), and i think its only a matter of time before it wears through. Good luck trying to solve your fuse problem!

Cheers

Mike

 

[Will]

Hey Max
I installed the gear indicator, so i hope not!
Thanks, that would be great.
Just got the bike back togehter this afternoon with 2 new vacuum hoses and a new centrifugal breather/oil seal. Was hoping it would be a massive improvement but having reset the TPS, the revs are fluctuating at idle more than they were before I started.. (
Cheers
Mike

Surging is from running lean, most likely. You either have a leak in the airbox or injector boots somewhere, or the CO is set too low.

 

[J. Max]

Ride it for a few days then see if it straightens out. If I am not mistaken, the TT600 is without a Lambda(?) sensor that I believe is normally (on other bikes) located on the exhaust headers. This sensor allows (on other bikes) for a "fast adaption reset" that ties in with resetting the TPS. While this may be psychobabble, my understanding is that the TT600 has to go through 3 heat cycles to adjust to what you have done to it. After I changed my vacuum hoses it ran the same for a few days then it straightened out and would no longer die at intersections. Search the EFI thread under SportTouring for the TT600 TPS thread I started where Tom Hamburg and teologie explain this. Sorry if any confusion, I'm not as familiar with EFI.

About the connectors, just zip-tie them out of the way!

 

[MikeF]

Hi Will / Max

Thanks for the assistance offered so far. It is much appreciated.

I managed to spend a little while working on the bike at the weekend, carrying out an oil change and a couple of other bits and pieces. Unfortunately it is too cold/icy/snowy to tempt me onto the bike at present, but I have started it up several times and let it idle. I'd say its had at least 3 heat cycles since I did the repairs.

The surging is still an issue and seems like the revs go up/down by approx 100 revs or so every few seconds. I also noticed that when the lights are on, the dash lights dim in sync with the fluctuating idle. I've fixed all the vacuum leaks I can find however the following things spring to mind;

1. I have not checked the injector boots and I am not sure how to do this. Can anyone explain please?
2. I can hear/feel the IACV operating when I switch the ignition on/off and I took it apart to clean the oil out of it. Should I remove the o-ring and seal it with liquid gasket?
3. The airbox is a poor fit at the junction betwen the two halves and I have tried to separate it to seal it. The screws are seized and the threaded inserts are just spinning. This was enough to allow oil to leak out of the airbox, so would presumably permit an air leak too. Hopefully I have fixed the cause of the oil in the airbox but I guess I need to seal the airbox too?
4. I did wonder whether the problem was due to the idle being too low (it is at about 1k) so I tried to increase the revs just by twisting the throttle a little. The surging continues up to approx 3k. Not sure what this indicates!?
5. Can I adjust the CO without any specialist equipment (gas analyser etc)?

If anyone is able to answer the above, or offer any other guidance on what else I should check, that would be very much appreciated.

Cheers

Mike

 

[Will]

I never had a gas analyzer. What I did was increase the value for fuel idle trim in TuneEdit. I'm not sure what the value or name of the function is in TuneECU, but essentially what it does is richen up the mix at idle and right off idle. Another way to approach it would be to increase the fueling values at low revs, but I'm not sure how well that would work.

 

[Speed4Boy]

Hello Mike,

After the MOT to the Speed Four at Christmas I investigated the fuse popping situation. The ignition wires to the multi connector block under the tank were rubbing and two wires (ignition) were occaisionally touching, hence popping the 30 Amp fuse.
Talking to the MOT guy, he has seen a worse case where the two ignition wires fused together. This turned on the ignition with out the need of a key!!
All fixed now!

Reference the airbox. They never seem to fit very well, and I'm convinced that the inlet tubes affect the mixture. On the Speedfour.org site, someone (can't remember who) modded the air intake by removing the inner tubes and fitting larger diameter rubber tubes from the airbox to the frame hole (poor explaination!). This seemed to have the affect of increasing the amount of air going into the airbox. I have done the same thing with two obvious results:
1. The bike runs smoother at lower revs.
2. The air intake 'howl' is great!!

This might not be a fix for you, but it,s cheap and I thought is was worth a go.

 

[MikeF]

Hi there

Glad to hear you got your electrical gremlins sorted out! Thanks also for the info regarding the airbox mods. I will dertainly look into it. I'm not convinced this is neccesarily a fix for the problems i'm experiencing with mine, but defintiely worth a look!

Max -thanks for your input re the CO. I will have a play with this and see if it improves things. Do you by any chance recall how much you altered the value?

If anyone else can offer any suggestions or answers to my other queries, it would be very much appreciated. I may have a bit of time to take a look tonight and pointers would be great!

Thank again

Mike

 

[MikeF]

Hi there

Dont suppose you remember how the ignition and kill switch wiring comes from the bars to the rocker cover area do you?

I got the bike back together (again) last night having installed a new race can and K&N and also having checked the IACV and hoses again. It 'seems' to be running better so far but I still have the CO to adjust and also I have just been emailed the clutchnthrottle tune from Craig. That is tonights' project.

I also put a new rad cap on which has stopped the bike emptying thre contents of the expansion ank onto the garage floor.

Cheers

Mike