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If this sounds like a dumb question, please indulge me. When truing a wheel, isn't the wheel spun on some sort of stand to check that there are no oscillations as it spins? If this is indeed the case, does anyone know where a "truing stand" might be sold? Thanks..............
 

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You can search on google for Motorcycle wheel truing stand and find several places to get one. seems I saw one for $60, then one for $180 but that came with a balancing stand as well.

Now for me, I true on the bike cause it holds the wheel just fine and I already have one. Only real problem is that the wheel is kinda low unless you have a lift.
 

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Gentleman, need some info. my Bonneville rims are tubeless, done by previous owner, have found out my rims is running up and down, basically out of tune. IF a shop were to perform truing, does that break the tubeless set up n one gotta redo the tubeless again. i have not seen nor known if there are many types of masking tubeless or just one type.

if truing without effecting the tubeless set up, than there are shops nearby whom can do, but cannot perform tubeless, else would need to travel a bit far to have a shop specialized in converting tubeless and truing = mucho $$$.

ready to absorb info.... Thanks.
 

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have found out my rims is running up and down, basically out of tune
What do you mean here? The wheel needs to be trued, by tightening/loosening spokes, if you have cupping or run out to the left and right. You mention up and down, do you mean some bouncing when you ride? A flat spot on the tire? This is handled by balancing the tire, not truing it. Spokes would not need to be touched.

If the wheel does need to be trued, they are going to need to twist the parts that were sealed when the wheel was made tubeless. That will surely introduce leaks, and you'll need to go back to using tubes or reseal it, which may be harder the second time.
 

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Wheels are trued for radial and lateral(axial) run out. And as previously mentioned, there is usually offset for a rear wheel. Same goes for a bicycle.
 

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the wheel does need to be trued, they are going to need to twist the parts that were sealed when the wheel was made tubeless. That will surely introduce leaks, and you'll need to go back to using tubes or reseal it, which may be harder the second time.
Thanks Bonnie black... My thoughts were true than, once one touch the spokes, need to redo selant for tubeless.

On center stand and wheels running, look from left or right side, can see the tire on one part is bulging (no, it's not tire defect) , hence up and down. Initially thought the rim bend but careful inspection by a noob, found it's not so.

I guess I better took leave to spent the day with the professional to have it truing and reapply the tubeless glue/tape or whatever one calls it.
 

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Wheels are trued for radial and lateral(axial) run out. And as previously mentioned, there is usually offset for a rear wheel. Same goes for a bicycle.
Thanks Felony, I did watch YouTube on truing bicycle 3 yrs ago, since the truing parts cost like usd1, decides to remove tire/tube and rim and try, I totally mess up the rim and in the end I gave to bicycle shop to get it fix, never would ever try on my Bonnie.
 

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Videos make it seem easy, but it does take some finesse. Not to mention getting the tension correct.For bicycle wheels, I made my own truing stand and tools.
 

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Gentleman, need some info. my Bonneville rims are tubeless, done by previous owner, have found out my rims is running up and down, basically out of tune. IF a shop were to perform truing, does that break the tubeless set up n one gotta redo the tubeless again. i have not seen nor known if there are many types of masking tubeless or just one type.

if truing without effecting the tubeless set up, than there are shops nearby whom can do, but cannot perform tubeless, else would need to travel a bit far to have a shop specialized in converting tubeless and truing = mucho $$$.

ready to absorb info.... Thanks.
If they've used tape to seal the rims then adjusting the spokes may not affect the seal, some kits use small discs that fit between the nipple and the sealing tape to allow it to rotate without disturbing the tape.
Even if these haven't been fitted there's a chance you'll still get away with it, when I sealed my rims the tape doesn't really press down against the nipples because they are below the level of the rim, sometimes the tape doesn't even touch the nipple at all it forms a little bubble, the sealing is all done on the rim around the spokes anyway.
Just get your guy to true the wheel as he would normally and see if it holds pressure afterwards, at worst you'll have to reapply the tape but I'm betting they'll still work ok.

If he hasn't used tape and has sealed each individual spoke from the inside in some way then when you'll obviously lose that seal if you move the spokes, there's plenty of help on here if you need to reseal them.
 
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