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Hey all, I just installed the dresser bars and the OEM heated grips for my Scrambler 1200 XC and figured I’d throw up a write-up for the grips, as I, myself, am hesitant w/ electronic stuff.



The instructions on triumphinstructions.com are pretty decent, but I thought I’d add in my own 2¢, hopefully to help a bit. I do recommend having the service manual. There are various ways to obtain a PDF for the Scram1200s. I meant to take pictures, but ended up not doing it. I encourage you to use those instructions, as they were helpful. Hopefully my yammering adds something to it.



First thing’s first, do this at your own risk, I’m not a certified technician/mechanic by any means. There are probably a 1000 different places on everything from Triumph saying to get it done by a certified technician, but here we are. Moving on…



You will need:

  • Ratchet or socket driver
  • 10mm socket
  • Torx bits (sorry, I failed, I don’t have sizes)
  • Hex bits
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • 8mm wrench in addition to the socket or another ratchet w/ 8mm socket
  • Some sort of slightly long skinny, but not too skinny metal fiddly bit. Triumph wants you to buy the switch housing removal tool, which I couldn’t be bothered with. I used the long side of a skinny allen key/hex key



  1. Get all the bits together. Should come with 5 screws, a couple washers, the wiring harness, and the grips w/ tubes.
  2. Get the seat off, take the under-seat compartment w/ USB off and disconnect the two connectors you find underneath.
  3. Disconnect the battery.
  4. Take the bar end “finishers” off. Just a simple hex screw, not torqued to any crazy spec. Should come off with a hex key or hex bit on a ratchet, which is what I did.
  5. Point number one, the instructions will tell you to take the “grips” off. Really they mean to take grips WITH the tubes off, as I figured out as soon as I got the left side grip off.
    1. So peel back the most medial (inside) of the left grip and reveal the screws holding the tube down to the bars. Undo these and off comes the tube.
  6. Now you’ll take off the right side throttle tube with the grip.
    1. Important: There are two sets of screws, only undo the larger Phillips head screws (more medial/toward the inside of the bike). The other set of screws are anti-tamper screws and it will void your warranty if you undo the screws.
    2. The top part of the clam-shell of the throttle tube housing will come off and the tube will come free. You do not need to take this apart any further and can place the top part of the clamshell back on with the screws as a place holder and so you don’t lose your screws and parts.
  7. Now comes the left sided switch housing (cruise control, fog lights, high beams, etc. are all on this control side)
    1. There are two small torx screws that will come out easily. You’ll have to undo the mirror/clutch clamp to access these torx screws (4 hex screws for the clamps).
    2. Instead of the “switch housing removal tool”, I used a small hex key. This part can be very fiddly, but with some patience it gets done. Insert the long side of the hex key into the hole. You’ll feel a bit of a step, but you want to go above the step and you’ll find that the hole goes a bit further after which you’ll find resistance. Triumph says you’ll feel a click, I did not. As you push, try to give the switch gear a tug and keep pushing and fiddling until this comes off. A small insert on the inside of the bike should come out as you move the switchgear. I wish I had a better trick for this, but this is by far the most annoying part of this install.
  8. Pulling the left switchgear laterally, you’ll expose a second little hole on the underside of the handlebar. This is where you are going to feed harness through.
    1. Feed the left sided part of the harness to the outside of the left handlebar (the shorter part of the harness) until it pokes out of a hole just medial to the bar end, also on the underside of the bar. This side should also have more pins on the connector (has wiring for heating and for the switch) than the right side.
    2. Now feed the right side of the harness (longer part with only 2 pins on the connector) into the hole that you exposed by moving the left sided switch gear. You’re going to patiently push the right side of the sub-harness from the left side to the right side and the connector will eventually pop out just under the bar-end on the right handlebar.
  9. Now hook up your new heated grips to the appropriate side with the connectors. You want to position the connectors inside handlebars per the Triumph instructions. To do this appropriately, you will need to feed into the bars and pull on the main harness to get the wiring nice and snug inside the tube. You don’t want any of the wiring sticking outside of the throttle tube (on the lateral/outside parts of the bike). This will take some patience, but you should be able to get it pretty flush and pretty.
  10. Put the top part of the clamshell of the throttle tube housing back on with the throttle tube in place and screw it back together. Make sure the throttle tube has full open and complete close.
  11. Push the left hand side switchgear back to the correct location with the locating/annoying insert. Put the screws back into the switchgear housing also.
  12. Screw the left side grip/tube in. First the larger silver screws with washers on the plastic part of the tube itself. Then put in the small black torx screws with the coarse thread to close up the switch housing.
  13. But the bar-ends back onto both sides.
  14. Feed the rest of the harness along the same path as the clutch cable and route it down to the left hand side of the bike.
  15. There is a small cable management bracket on the left side. Undo the bracket and the bracket under that as well to free up some space for the harness.
  16. Now go back to the under-seat area and undo the main bolt holding the tank in place. 8mm bolt head and 10mm nut. Slide the tank backward to give you some breathing room up front.
  17. On the RIGHT side, find the heated grip connector. It should be the lowest on a bracket holding a bunch of different connectors. Undo the torx bolt holding the bracket and take the heated grip connector out. It’s one of those annoying squeeze-to-remove-then-break-them-anyway plastic plug things.
  18. Remove the plastic plug on the end of the connector.
  19. Feed the harness through from the left side to the right side of the bike and connect it to the connector from the bike.
  20. Reattach the connector to its bracket and reattach the bracket to the bike.
  21. Reattach the cable management bracket on the left after picking a place to feed the harness.
  22. Slide the fuel tank back in place and reattach the bolt.
  23. Tighten up the clutch/mirror clamps in the appropriate position. There is a little white
    “T” marking for a guide.
  24. Use the black zip tie prevent the harness from flopping about.
  25. Tighten up any thing else you haven’t tightened up. Snug up all the screws and reattach the battery and the plastic USB tray.
  26. Turn on the bike and give your hands some nice warmth.
 

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Hey all, I just installed the dresser bars and the OEM heated grips for my Scrambler 1200 XC and figured I’d throw up a write-up for the grips, as I, myself, am hesitant w/ electronic stuff.



The instructions on triumphinstructions.com are pretty decent, but I thought I’d add in my own 2¢, hopefully to help a bit. I do recommend having the service manual. There are various ways to obtain a PDF for the Scram1200s. I meant to take pictures, but ended up not doing it. I encourage you to use those instructions, as they were helpful. Hopefully my yammering adds something to it.



First thing’s first, do this at your own risk, I’m not a certified technician/mechanic by any means. There are probably a 1000 different places on everything from Triumph saying to get it done by a certified technician, but here we are. Moving on…



You will need:

  • Ratchet or socket driver
  • 10mm socket
  • Torx bits (sorry, I failed, I don’t have sizes)
  • Hex bits
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • 8mm wrench in addition to the socket or another ratchet w/ 8mm socket
  • Some sort of slightly long skinny, but not too skinny metal fiddly bit. Triumph wants you to buy the switch housing removal tool, which I couldn’t be bothered with. I used the long side of a skinny allen key/hex key



  1. Get all the bits together. Should come with 5 screws, a couple washers, the wiring harness, and the grips w/ tubes.
  2. Get the seat off, take the under-seat compartment w/ USB off and disconnect the two connectors you find underneath.
  3. Disconnect the battery.
  4. Take the bar end “finishers” off. Just a simple hex screw, not torqued to any crazy spec. Should come off with a hex key or hex bit on a ratchet, which is what I did.
  5. Point number one, the instructions will tell you to take the “grips” off. Really they mean to take grips WITH the tubes off, as I figured out as soon as I got the left side grip off.
    1. So peel back the most medial (inside) of the left grip and reveal the screws holding the tube down to the bars. Undo these and off comes the tube.
  6. Now you’ll take off the right side throttle tube with the grip.
    1. Important: There are two sets of screws, only undo the larger Phillips head screws (more medial/toward the inside of the bike). The other set of screws are anti-tamper screws and it will void your warranty if you undo the screws.
    2. The top part of the clam-shell of the throttle tube housing will come off and the tube will come free. You do not need to take this apart any further and can place the top part of the clamshell back on with the screws as a place holder and so you don’t lose your screws and parts.
  7. Now comes the left sided switch housing (cruise control, fog lights, high beams, etc. are all on this control side)
    1. There are two small torx screws that will come out easily. You’ll have to undo the mirror/clutch clamp to access these torx screws (4 hex screws for the clamps).
    2. Instead of the “switch housing removal tool”, I used a small hex key. This part can be very fiddly, but with some patience it gets done. Insert the long side of the hex key into the hole. You’ll feel a bit of a step, but you want to go above the step and you’ll find that the hole goes a bit further after which you’ll find resistance. Triumph says you’ll feel a click, I did not. As you push, try to give the switch gear a tug and keep pushing and fiddling until this comes off. A small insert on the inside of the bike should come out as you move the switchgear. I wish I had a better trick for this, but this is by far the most annoying part of this install.
  8. Pulling the left switchgear laterally, you’ll expose a second little hole on the underside of the handlebar. This is where you are going to feed harness through.
    1. Feed the left sided part of the harness to the outside of the left handlebar (the shorter part of the harness) until it pokes out of a hole just medial to the bar end, also on the underside of the bar. This side should also have more pins on the connector (has wiring for heating and for the switch) than the right side.
    2. Now feed the right side of the harness (longer part with only 2 pins on the connector) into the hole that you exposed by moving the left sided switch gear. You’re going to patiently push the right side of the sub-harness from the left side to the right side and the connector will eventually pop out just under the bar-end on the right handlebar.
  9. Now hook up your new heated grips to the appropriate side with the connectors. You want to position the connectors inside handlebars per the Triumph instructions. To do this appropriately, you will need to feed into the bars and pull on the main harness to get the wiring nice and snug inside the tube. You don’t want any of the wiring sticking outside of the throttle tube (on the lateral/outside parts of the bike). This will take some patience, but you should be able to get it pretty flush and pretty.
  10. Put the top part of the clamshell of the throttle tube housing back on with the throttle tube in place and screw it back together. Make sure the throttle tube has full open and complete close.
  11. Push the left hand side switchgear back to the correct location with the locating/annoying insert. Put the screws back into the switchgear housing also.
  12. Screw the left side grip/tube in. First the larger silver screws with washers on the plastic part of the tube itself. Then put in the small black torx screws with the coarse thread to close up the switch housing.
  13. But the bar-ends back onto both sides.
  14. Feed the rest of the harness along the same path as the clutch cable and route it down to the left hand side of the bike.
  15. There is a small cable management bracket on the left side. Undo the bracket and the bracket under that as well to free up some space for the harness.
  16. Now go back to the under-seat area and undo the main bolt holding the tank in place. 8mm bolt head and 10mm nut. Slide the tank backward to give you some breathing room up front.
  17. On the RIGHT side, find the heated grip connector. It should be the lowest on a bracket holding a bunch of different connectors. Undo the torx bolt holding the bracket and take the heated grip connector out. It’s one of those annoying squeeze-to-remove-then-break-them-anyway plastic plug things.
  18. Remove the plastic plug on the end of the connector.
  19. Feed the harness through from the left side to the right side of the bike and connect it to the connector from the bike.
  20. Reattach the connector to its bracket and reattach the bracket to the bike.
  21. Reattach the cable management bracket on the left after picking a place to feed the harness.
  22. Slide the fuel tank back in place and reattach the bolt.
  23. Tighten up the clutch/mirror clamps in the appropriate position. There is a little white
    “T” marking for a guide.
  24. Use the black zip tie prevent the harness from flopping about.
  25. Tighten up any thing else you haven’t tightened up. Snug up all the screws and reattach the battery and the plastic USB tray.
  26. Turn on the bike and give your hands some nice warmth.
Hopefully I'll be doing this same install by this coming weekend. Thanks for posting this!
 

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238 Posts
Step 7, part 2 is really bothering me right now!!!
Literally took me a few hours to get past that step, but once I did, it was relatively smooth sailing. I'm not even sure which combination of "maybe this tool will work" and "if I stand here and apply pressure like this" did the trick, but something worked. Yeesh....
 
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