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Discussion Starter #81
Spent some time with the project over the weekend. I spent about two hours cleaning the TS main case in preparation for reassembly. Just have to clean the DS case and I'll be ready to go.

I did have some luck with the front wheel which I previously disassembled. After the hub was stripped bare I glass beaded it in preparation for paint:



Then masked the brake and bearing surfaces:



Then paint:



When I started cleaning the original rim I thought all was lost and I should have it re-chromed. After two hours bloodying my fingertips with aluminum foil and polish, my opinion had changed. The chrome is OK, you can see the cracking but there are no real bad spots and it will do just fine for this rebuild.



Lacing this front wheel was a breeze- all spokes are the same size and angle.





I picked up a $30 balancing setup which ended up working fine. I just had to install the bearings first since the cones were not large enough to meet right up against the hub.



Then started the truing process- it ended up pretty smooth with the exception of a slight bend I just couldn't correct where the rim was welded together.



Some of the spokes poked through the nipples and needed to be ground off to prevent puncture on the inner tube. I then used a self adhesive rim tape this time instead of a rubber rim strip just because and it seemed to work fine.



Got the new tube and K70 tire mounted and its ready to sit in the corner for a few more months until I balance it.

 

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Nice work. Wheel looks good!

I have one suggestion for when you do the rear wheel. After you have finished with the spokes, go around the rim and using brass hammer or a brass drift and a hammer, give each nipple a sharp rap with the hammer. This will seat it into the rim. Then go around and recheck all the nipples. You may need to take up on a few or most of them.

The reason for this is the nipples will seat into the rim when you ride the bike and the road pounds the rim. Seating them in advance precludes the spokes loosening early. I actually go around my rims twice and give each nipple a double beating just to be sure.

regards,
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #83 (Edited)
Good tip, i'll do it on the rear.

Finished cleaning the cases tonight and noticed this engraving- no doubt this new engine was in chopper at some point. "Mosquitoe- Jun 1973"

[/URL

Decided to put the new drive rubbers in, what a chore! The inside was covered in thick grease/wax and the old rubbers were intact but replacement cost was cheap enough.

[URL=http://s44.photobucket.com/user/tealetm/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02/B0FDE15D-BBF4-4086-8C70-97F79848505F_zpshgf7fq8p.jpg.html]






Time to regain feeling in my fingertips.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Got the "new" fork lowers in the mail the other day from a guy on another forum. I haven't try to fit anything yet, but they look great. For the price I stole a good sidestand, both fork lowers and rear pegs. The lowers have been blasted and painted so they are ready to go already.

Going to the local shop (M&S) tomorrow to pick up new parts for the forks (bushes/bearings, damping sleeves, seals, tapered head bearings are in stock but he's waiting on new tubes), sludge tube plug, inner tube (pinched the front one while mounting the tire...) and see what he has for suitable fenders.

Tonight I'll inspect the cylinders/pistons and the head I have and possible bring them to him for work where needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Yes they did! I didn't know you were on this forum as well. Thank again- cleaning out the blast media from the inside of the tubes should make them ready to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
I pulled the sludge trap (previously just cleaned in-place). It was a bear to get out, but after some heat and putting a bend in a cheap screwdriver, it popped right out. It wasn't too bad, but I'm definitely glad I pulled it. Once I cleaned the trap, the inside of the crank and ensures all oil passages were clear I reassembled it.



With new .010" over (under?) shell bearings and new bolts/nuts, I assembled the connecting rods to the crank. Measurement was great and the fit felt perfect after final torqueing on both sides.

I had hoped to assemble the cases this weekend, but quickly found a few problems that I managed to overlook. I did not remove the cams from the "new" cases which I'm using, but found three problems. One was that the bushes on the TS side are shot and the cams are loose as can be. The second is that the cams themselves are shot- its clear as day in person but hard to see in this photo but the lobe is far from being symmetrical and there are some score marks elsewhere.



The last issue is that the rotary breather valve is shot. It was frozen in place, and the engagement ears on the rotary breather valve itself were actually pressed right into the bush and the bush was scored- no clue how that could have happened. While trying to take it out the tabs easily snapped right off. You can see in the photo the depression in the bush.





I'll post another question in the general forum about the breather valve, but I'll ask here as well. The parts diagrams show a spring between the breather valve and the cam. Neither engine I have had a spring here. Am I reading the diagram correct? What good would a spring do between the valve and the cam- wouldn't that only separate the ears from the cam grooves? And lastly the engaging end of the inlet cam is hollow- in face the whole cam is hollow. Where would this spring sit?



I'll be bringing the cases to the local shop early this week. With luck he'll advise me that the cams out of the "original" engine are fine, put new bushes in the "new" case along with a new breather valve assembly, and swap the cams to trash the bad set.

More to come.
 

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I honestly do not remember if my '66 engine had the spring. I want to say it did because I remember pressing down on the cam and slowly rotating it until the drive tabs engaged... at least I think I did.

Somebody here will know with authority.

regards,
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #89 (Edited)
I've dropped the cases off at the local shop- new cam bushes and rotary breather valve are needed (see my other thread for more info). Additionally, I need a new inlet cam as the good cam I have appears to be from a later model and thus doesn't have the drilled vent hole for breathing. So thats at the shop for a few weeks and I'll be switching gears to other items.

This weekend it was the forks. Thanks to Robs detail in his build thread, I was easily able to figure out the system. I'm glad I bought new bearings, because the existing were quite sloppy compared to the new set. I also bought new damping sleeves, but I'm unsure if they needed to be replaced. The existing set were aluminum, and the replacement set were plastic. There were some nicks on the old tubes which could have been fixed, but I opted for new emgos.

The new lowers I got were previously blasted an painted, and unfortunately some of the inner surface was also hit. This acted like one of those chinese finger traps- I got the slider and lower bearing in, but couldn't get it out. A half hour later, I had it out. I had already washed them to remove any leftover grit so some fine sandpaper wrapped around a large socket and extension worked well to smooth the inner surface just enough to allow the bearing to slide with some lubrication. I didn't want to take too much off.

The old seals were a bear to get out, and I'm sure my neighbor really enjoyed the hammering at 10pm, but the new ones went in nice and tight. Springs are an odd length- manual gives two lengths (8 3/4" or 9 3/4" depending?) but mine are between 9 1/4" and 9 1/2". I'm spending too much on this project, so I'll reassemble with this set and maybe replace them down the road. Just like Rob's rebuild, all four lower bolts are missing the crush washers but aside from that I'm all set and ready to go. Here are some photos:

New lower bearing retaining nuts, lower bearings, damper sleeve, upper bearing fork seals, new stantions and correct length lowers compared to the extended lowers:



Rough inner surface of new lowers:



And my setup for smoothing them out- just a little bit of sanding not too much as the bearings do fit nice and tight:

 

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Discussion Starter #91
Picking up the cases from the local shop tomorrow. I've been out of town for work so I havent' made any progress on the project myself.

Between the one cam being worn and the other being incorrect (not drilled for breather), I ended up spending some $$ on new cams from Megacycle. I couldn't justify going through the whole bike knowing that I put cheap chinese cams in i's heart. So the new cams are in, and the breather valve has been sorted out. Knowing that I'm out of town, I paid a few extra bucks to have the shop put in the crank bearings I already bought and bolt together the lower end. Shop said that the previous owner mushroomed the end of the crank (which I saw- I assume while trying to split the cases) so he also machined the end as best as he could so I wouldn't lose oil pressure (that's what he told me at least...I have yet to see the work or where it would affect pressure).

So I should pick up the cases tomorrow and then hopefully start reassembling the rest of the lower end this weekend.

I'll upload photos after I picked the lower end up.
 

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just joined the forum and am both enjoying seeing the progress folks are making on their projects and picking up tips for possible use in my upcoming rebuilds.
 

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Travis, the oil flows thru the crank end and the timing cover. There is a seal in the cover that is needed to keep the oil between the crank and the cover and if the seal surface is damaged, it will leak.

Look at the lube diagram in the front of the manual for a picture of what I am talking about.
Regards,
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #94
I got the seal, just don't get why a slightly tighter fit would make it loose pressure. I could tell Steve was half pulling my chain because he didn't charge me much. He likes to toot his own horn and for the price, I don't mind.
 

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I don't know what the crank looked like, but if it was beat up it could have destroyed the seal and that could cause a loss of pressure.

Regards,
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Not much to report unfortunately. I did manage to disassemble the rear wheel down to the bare hub so I can strip/paint that, polish the original rim and lace it with the new spokes.

This is going to be a busy summer... Especially if i continue to be 5 hours away in NH for most of the week.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
I've been busy with work, renting apartments and looking for a house for myself so the project hasn't gotten much attention.

The local shop is slow, and I'm busy so last weekend I brought the engine to them to finish. I brought nearly two of everything for him to pick and choose what to use, and I already bought all the bearings, seals and gaskets so hopefully its just machining work, valves/guides/pistons/rings and labor to assemble (I'm sure there will be more though...).

Hoping to get going on the frame so when I can bring it to the shop, stick the engine in and have him finish completely with its assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Stopped by the shop the other to see the progress on the engine. Top end is rebuilt (guides/valves/springs), bottom end is nearly finished (new primary chain and stator...). I'm in no rush for it to be done, as I haven't touched the frame or anything else yet.

Sold my 95 speed triple so I have a bit more room in my garage. I didn't realize how many spare parts I had for that bike, and after giving them all to the buyer my garage shelves look bare.
 
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