How would a hardwood stick compare with a softwood one, and what if the rubber was the same type used to make gaiters and footpeg rubbers these days, would the rubber just fall apart at the first test
I agree, my Ducati performance far exceeds any vintage Triumph but once past the Triumph level, it's a place for fast reflexes ,time and space get compressed..But is is thrilling....Changing your riding style is not easy, especially for older riders. Many things about riding a motorcycle need to be automatic, done without thought, when the moment presents itself. This is especially true during that occasional thrilling moment when things are happening fast and your reaction time may not be what it once was. Though I ride several brands, I’ve always felt that Triumphs were the easiest to ride.
Trail braking is about applying the front brake lightly in a corner to shorten the wheelbase which makes going around corners easier. That's why the discussion is about the front brake. Applying the back brake counters what you are trying to do in the corner.interesting video & discussion and the trail braking technique makes a lot of sense to me. like to think that'ws the way i brake instinctively but won't know until i can get back on the bike.
one thing puzzles me - that the discussion is almost completely focused on front brake. i realize that's where most of the braking power is, but aren't 2 brakes better than one?
In slow turns on a heavy bike like my LT I lightly drag the back brake. On my 1970 TR6 I try not to touch the brakes in any turn! I find the old bikes with drums just don't allow smooth enough braking to use them when the bike is banked over.Braking question - when making a turn or u-turn, either from a stop or at low speed, do others keep a brake applied and slowly release it coming out of the turn? if so, which brake do you use?
For slow, tight turns, dragging the rear brake slightly can help you control speed better. US police, riding their limited-space gymkhana-type competitions, take this to extremes. They drag the rear brake hard and slip the clutch like crazy, keeping the revs up. This allows for quick acceleration between tight corners but also makes a lot of noise for the crowds. They burn through (literally) a lot of brake pads and clutches.Braking question - when making a turn or u-turn, either from a stop or at low speed, do others keep a brake applied and slowly release it coming out of the turn? if so, which brake do you use?
Yes. More significant is that it steepens the steering head, making for lighter steering and tighter turning.Also, if one objective of trail braking is to compress the front forks doesn't that actually shorten the wheelbase slightly?
Slight pressure on the rear brake and feather the clutch. Look at where you are going not at your front wheel. Keep the power up. Applying rear brake tends to keep the bike upright whereas the front brake will want to pull the bike down. Keeping the power up and feathering the clutch keeps momentum going. You don't want to lose momentum on a tight turn as you will tend to fall over!Braking question - when making a turn or u-turn, either from a stop or at low speed, do others keep a brake applied and slowly release it coming out of the turn? if so, which brake do you use?
That is correct and why it works. You don't have to apply much brake to get the effect you want. Clearly a handful will send you into oh-**** land pretty quickly. Note that trail braking is useful in two scenarios. 1. You want to go fast in tight corners esp in race conditions. 2. You enter a corner a bit hot for whatever reason for example it tightens up on you unexpectedly.Also, if one objective of trail braking is to compress the front forks doesn't that actually shorten the wheelbase slightly?
That is correct the steering head is a fixed member of the frame. The measurements are taken in a static position, (that is; the bike is neutral, there are no forces acting on it).Trail braking cannot steepen the steering head, the steering head is a fixed member of the frame !