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I have used 3 sets of MAP steel rods, and two sets of R&R alloy rods....Have you got Marino to tell you any tech info? I had several long talks with him but he dodged actual tech . I always enjoyed talking to his wife on the phone when ordering parts, we talked about all kinds of stuff...
 

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lol no

ive never discussed the rods with him, just casual stuff crankz and some little on titanium valvez. i was trying to see when he would be doing a batch of billet cranks. not enough interest to justify that endeavor. but he did say that they would do one for him at US$3000. i got mine from greg blagus at RoDy cranks instead.

his wife is great. i love talking to her as well. always wondered if it was her in the old 1970 catalogs
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Hi Stuart, Yes sort of. Meaning best I can. Hot oil pressure is really good. Motor has never once been over revved. T140 are pretty beefy. I’m not afraid to reuse if they look good.

Hepolite bearing shells scare me after 2 sets with too much clearance.
I don’t know what I’ll use yet, but Hepolite is very last choice. I’d probably reuse old ones before Hepolite. I hope to remove rods next week. I might get bad surprise. I’ve learned to not jump to conclusions during teardown. I plan to plastigage old & new. Plastigauge is very reliable & works well. Cannot let rod rotate during measurements thought. John will assist me.
Don
 

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The only new rod bearings to use are the Mahle Clevite 77 in the plain white boxes marked made in USA..Never assume anything with an aluminum rod, measure the big end with a bore gauge or at least a snap gauge to check for out of round....It is most likely ok, but ya never know..
 
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Discussion Starter #86
Hi All, Slow progress. I have low spot between bores. I'm cleaning head as we speak. Huge job with so much hard carbon. Very hard kind. Spent several hours so far. Pretty much nothing softening it. Just scraping the old fashioned way, trying to not scratch alloy. I hope to complete head cleaning & disassembly by Sunday PM... I'll check head for flatness then. I expect not very flat is what I'll find.

Bores are not that worn really, but have dips & out of round. I shot carb cleaner on my work sheet so I'll have to remeasure. I don't own bore gauge, just inside mic. (Old school for sure). I have cheap snap gauges. Will measure to .001. I don't trust them to .0005". I can get .009" feeler gauge between piston skirt fat part & bore. So obviously the pistons were major source of noise. Squish band of right side of head has pock marks. Looks like from carbon hitting head. We'd see that at work on occasion. I'll photo that later.

I photo'd bore best I could. Has what looks like alloy transfer in the scratches, but not scuffed on pistons. Maybe from slamming bore due to excess clearance??

Who was it that said check studs for magnetic. One front 3/8 stud was becoming partly magnetic. Why? From heat? Both front 3/8 were darkened after cleaning, not silver like others. The 4 outside 3/8 bolts look to be normal bolt steel, not stainless.

In mean time made a few videos on using ring compressor & removing tappet blocks. Still waiting for 4" mic to measure new pistons. Will compare weight of 8.6 to 7.4 & decide on balance factor.

That's it for now.
Don
 

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i have an untested suggeztion. try going to the auto parts store and buying a jug of diesel DEF fluid. its diluted urea and is used to remove carbon deposits from truck exhaust systems.

caveat: i have NOT tried this but will the next time i have pistons to clean. i have always soaked coked-up parts in very soapy water overnight, after which the carbon comez off the aluminum in chunks. but i will try the DEF next.
 

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Looking good Don. Which rings are you going to go with ?

Hi Jmmy, the spark plug threads centre and right look strange, were they protected when the head was cleaned, probably just some protection left behind.
 

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I'm sure you're correct about thread protection.
The guy doing it is a brilliant builder with a great rep on Tridents, so I have no concerns with it
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Hi All, I don't know what rings yet. I'll see what Engine Dynamics has to offer. The Harris rings have actually worked well also. I'm thinking Riken made in Japan might be good choice. The honing will/can depend on rings chosen. If I have to buy a few sets to find the right ones, that's ok. I'll take the loss.

I'm thinking about balance factor also. I'd really like to know what I have now in real life... I don't have static balance jig. I'll have to see if I can find someone local that has one. I plan to do dynamic in any case. Maybe factor isn't that important. On the one motor I was personally involved with vibration burned your skin on seat. Now it's very comfortable after dynamic. I'm just looking for comfortable for all day rides 3-400 miles.
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Hi Jimmy, Looks like Grin did a beautiful job! Very hard to get a good job done these days. All the little details make a difference.
Don
 

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Hi All, I don't know what rings yet. I'll see what Engine Dynamics has to offer. The Harris rings have actually worked well also. I'm thinking Riken made in Japan might be good choice. The honing will/can depend on rings chosen. If I have to buy a few sets to find the right ones, that's ok. I'll take the loss.
Hi Don, a very interesting thread this. Like others I'll be interested in that sludg trap.:unsure: My old Tart has 45k on it, with a Norton spin on filter at 30k. Like yours, mine ratlles but being deaf and not hearing it all is very comforting. I did decoke mine at 33k so unless something significant develops I'll keep riding. If that trap of yours is just half full, I'll feel more comfortable about my prospects. I broke my back in a serious MVA seven months ago and I'm not yet fit to undertake a full engine rebuild. Keep up your very thorough work Don, and the best of British good luck with it. I'll be keeping a close eye on you. ;) RR
 

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Hi All, I don't know what rings yet. I'll see what Engine Dynamics has to offer. The Harris rings have actually worked well also. I'm thinking Riken made in Japan might be good choice. The honing will/can depend on rings chosen. If I have to buy a few sets to find the right ones, that's ok. I'll take the loss.
Oh BTW Don, I agree with your decision to go with a three part oil ring. I think these will do better oil control on these engines. They may be hard to find tho? I looked a few years back and they seemed as scarce as hen's teeth. I'll be interested what you end up with. (y) RR
 

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40,000 and my trap was half full. It was a very solid sludge as hard as rock. I had to use a hammer to break it up. Expect half full if the bike was used for most of its life with no oil filter.
 

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Don, try to get NOS made in Japan Riken rings, they show up on Ebay....They look like nothing special, but seem to offer a better seal. Rings with a Napier second ring would offer advantages in oil control.I use only three piece oil rings....
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Hi All, A good work day with 100% good news! John with the '69 Bonnie we did came over & assisted me today. Split cases using parting tool. Piece of cake with tool. Crank was super tight & I mean super tight in right main bearing. I made a nice brass crank driver from 3/4" brass pipe. Wouldn't budge. Heated bearing as possible & cases until spit boiled. I expected bearing to come out of case, but, crank came out & left bearing in case. Either way I'm happy. Ball bearing at 36 shows wear, slightly rough. Left roller looks very nice. Will replace both of course. Roller is tight on crank. I'll have to buy bearing splitter later this week to pull it.

Rods look perfect. Inserts look really, good. a small scratch on one, but not bad at all. Plastigauged them. Good! They could be reused, but I'll get new. Crank journals round to .0004", no taper or scratches. So crank is good. More on crank later. I did a bunch of videos. I'll put on YouTube someday. Can't post vids directly here.

Pulled sludge trap so you all can be happy. Next post.
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Hi All. Sludge trap. Plug was staked well & I felt needed drilling 1/8" drill. Heated pork chop/plug till spit boiled. I ground SnapOn drag link socket to perfect fit to undamaged plug. Tiniest press fit in slot to reduce slipping. Used 1/2 drive air powered impact gun set to medium. Feathered trigger carefully. Plug was super, super tight. Loctited from factory! It came out hard all the way. 7 threads on plug. I bought bike new. Never been apart.

Repro sludge trap tube & plug are often trouble & don't fit right. There is not reason to damage plug or tube if it's not be buggered up by prior owner. Just makes life simple. I did video on how I removed plug & used tube puller. If tube has lots of sludge drill out sludge by hand with drill bits until puller slides it. Puller can also line up hole in tube perfectly. Well worth the time to make it. PM me you email if you want to see videos.

It is important to note the bell end of sludge trap fills first & makes it look like more sludge that it may really be. I tried to capture this in photos. Very minimal sludge in tube. Every oil change was done on time from new. Installed Motao in frame filter 19968 mi. 2/10/17. Still used 1500 oil change intervals. Motor sump & primary oil drained every time. In frame screen, sump screen cleaned every time. Paper element changed ever time after installing Motao filter.

First things first, let's pull the plug & tube.

Continued next post...
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Ok Ok, Now the sludge....

Remember glance at bell end of tube is deceiving. It's really thick because of bell. What we want to know is what is tube itself like. Here's my tube. Not so easy to photo in tube. Tried different lights. Again PM me your email & I'll send video that shows all this in detail, including inside of tube & pulling sludge from bell end.

Photo Pointed end view means looking into tube from left end.

Photo Bell end 1 is looking into tube from right. Meaning right side of motor.

Photo Bell end 2, zoom in on it. I cut the sludge with bent wire to check depth. Not even 1/16".

I've seen much harder sludge with more like granules. This sludge was very fine, smooth & like a wax. Not hard. Why? I don't know.

Cleaning tube & crank can take some work. I find using brushes from gun cleaning kits with a strong solvent or gas, then carb cleaner spray works good. If you have compressed air, that is helpful.
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Ok, Now, I'll show how I remove flywheel bolt that secures tube by going into the hole in side of tube. Plug doesn't hold tube at all. Just this bolt & a press fit in crank.

The threads are deep into crank well below the head. All I've removed were loctited. Mine is factory. I'm afraid to chance it removing bolt cold. I always use heat when removing. Torque wrench, loctite 243 when installing. Some say use red when racing.

Heat softens loctite allowing it release. This bolt in my experience is super tight anyway. Heat until spit boils. Heat down low even with crank journals, as well as flywheel & bolt head. The threads are down deep, so get it hot there. Don't short cut the heating. It takes some time to heat the mass of metal to boiling. If bolt doesn't want to turn, heat it a bit more. Whatever you do, don't break the bolt. Another 5-10 min. heat is nothing compared to getting broken bolt extracted.

Spit dances on hot metal 375f. I don't go that hot. I know the spec sheet says good to 360f, but I find you can unscrew it much lower, boiling spit will usually allow release. Red is more heat resistant than blue in any case.

I've always used propane torch to heat before. This time used heat gun. I think torch is faster, but maybe easier to overheat?? MAP gas might be a little too hot?? Mechanic's choice I guess.
Don
 

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