i have a billet crank in one machine that took some fussing to fit, as it started out as a T140 crank. the right side bearing is a no-wobble slip fit, which i didn't like. but its been good for very hard use at very high rpm, so i'm okay with it. no noise, no increased clearances.Removed CN bearing & installed C3. Crank fits perfectly. Nice slip fit. A trace of wiggle at drive side end of crank if I wobble it. Stacking of production tolerances or something demanded a C3 in my case. Whatever, I'm very pleased to have it installed & crank spinning well. Now I can move forward with weight matching rods & final assembly.
Very interesting reading and I like your analysis rather than just depending on what the 'experts' say you should fit.So that's the saga of my 3 piece roller.
The "experts" are correct. The reason Don has had to go to a C3 was because the timing side shaft is oversize, making the bearing inner far too tight on the shaft. Without having the facilities to get the shaft correct, C3 is the workaround. Yes, if you are in the same situation, that is the solution, but not in general. That said, as you have done 40K miles, maybe your particular engine was the same way as Don's - or maybe it is not that critical bar maybe a bit more vibration. What Don did do is find out why he had the problem and make a decision accordingly!Very interesting reading and I like your analysis rather than just depending on what the 'experts' say you should fit.
I replaced my T140 timing side ball bearing with the later 3-piece roller in early 90s before the internet and fitted a C3 roller because the ball race was C3. It went together ok and 'felt' right so if the 'experts' say a C3 was 'wrong' it has done over 40k miles since and still all ok.
Anyone - nice read of your rebuild so thanks
Does the drive side race actually move to left in case while riding?
It should appear to move to the right.
Or more precisely the rollers should run slightly to the right on the track of the outer race.